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toman21

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  1. toman21

    Clutch Rattle

    Sitting in neutral idling they tend to be a little loud, then it disappears when the clutch is pulled, thats normal. It was like that with my 09, i read on these forums that if new clutch rubbers are put in the noise decreases noticeably. I had to change my clutch basket because it was notchy so at the same time renewed the rubbers. To my surprise the clutch was almost silent, so that could be where the noise is coming from. So if the clutch is operating fine its OK to leave it.
  2. What is the advantage of mounting the shocker the way it is a jotagas?
  3. Just wondering if anyone knows how thick the entire clutch pack is on a Sherco? Also is there a specific torque value for these bolts? Thanks Oh and one more thing, i was just looking up clutch holding tools trying to find one thats wasn't £70!! I found this, but it says 2001-2005. Would this not work on an 08" because i thought the clutch assembly was the same from around 1999 - 2010? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sherco-80-125-200-250-290cc-Clutch-Holding-Tool-2001-2005-/111137408196?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item19e04e44c4
  4. Yeah, when it went gold i was riding it near flat out for a while. The bike was running on the lean side at that point aswell, also i think i had rubbed all the chrome off which didn't help Since then i have when up on the pilot jet number to get it on the slightly rich side which i think is a safer bet. Thanks for the info
  5. It only starts to turn gold when the bike gets really hot, say when riding trails. Its turning gold at the bit where i had previously burnt my waterproof trousers on and had to rub for ages to get the shinny chrome again when metal polish. Want does this coloration mean? I have read that blue means lean and gold means rich not sure about that though.
  6. My spark plugs were always turning black (slightly wet) even on a lean-ish carb. After new piston rings, crank seals, clean air filter and carb and electrical inspection it still fouled plugs, the bike still started first kick with choke and ran fine. Then when i checked the plug once i measured the gap and it was 0.032", after gapping it to the recommended 0.020" the bike sounded leaner without actually adjusting the carb. Can a incorrect spark plug gap rich foul plugs?, i have always thought that the larger the gap the hotter the plug will run so why would it rich foul???
  7. What would be a recommended torque setting for the spark plug?
  8. Right oh, i try the 36 again. Is "Pinking" engine rattle when you come off the throttle, which is cured by more fuel???
  9. Firstly i would invite you to read this link : http://www.advrider....ad.php?t=861765 This is a segment from the link above "Basically, one way to test the fuel screw circuit is during a sudden 100% full throttle snap from idle check. The vacuum of the engine will draw fuel INITIALLY from the fuel screw circuit (the progression circuit in delortto speak) and if too lean, the engine will bog and or die. If too rich, the revs will just build slow. Its very easy to detect a lean bog , so thats what you use as a indicator - so you start from a known lean condition and work towards getting rid of it. Ideally, what you want, is enough fuel to prevent a lean condition during this wide open snap of the throttle and "just" eliminate the lean bog and alittle bit more for safety (said in Italian this sounds better)The safety adder portion should actually be tested as well - you do that with a throttle chop. Find a big steep hill (or a cranberry bog) that you can climb under WFO throttle and listen for any lean pinging after you chop the throttle at the top. If you hear any pinging, you need to richen the fuel screw more. Use this hill to verify your main jet too while your at it! My Procedure on PHBL: Make sure bike is good and warm. Never play with the setting with a cold bike. Turn fuel screw in to about 1 turn out or so. (or whatever setting you know will produce a bog - you'll know it when you hear it) Turn down idle speed to very low - enough so it doesnt stall, but very low. Wack throttle wide open very quickly. Really make sure you get a good fast full turn snap. Listen for obvious lean bog. richen fuel screw in 1/2 turn increments until the lean bog goes away. It will become a more subtle transition but still there. repeat with 1/4 turn settings near point where lean bog goes away to improve setpoint accuracy. Once you find that gray zone where the bog is "just" gone - add another 1/4 to 1/2 turn richer to the fuel screw. I find by lowering the idle way down, this really helps fine tune the "just" gone or subtle transition and I find I can get away with only adding a 1/4 turn*. The PHBL has a very sharp and defined transition so is very easy to set, so even 1/8 turn resolution of the transition is attainable once your used to it. (Unlike a VHST or even a Keihin that are alittle less defined IMO) If the weather gets really hot and humid, your safety adder from setpoint may grow from the 1/4 turn to the 1/2 turn range. (*test on hill - once found use that or be safe and use 1/2 turn) The above can take some seat of the pants practice, but once you calibrate yourself to your bike, and you become repeatable, its' really a quick and easy thing to set just right. I will test it anytime the weather changes dramatically. Hot and humid vs cold and dry would be at least 1/2 turn different - so worth doing. Theres a video example of this is one of the jim snell motor video's. probably the last one near the end. After all is said and done, you should be in the 3 to 3 1/2 turn out range on the fuel screw on a average day near sea level. If not, your either jetted wrong or the carb/jets are dirty. (on a GG 250 -300 anyway) If done correctly, the bike should have instant throttle response and the revs should drop quick too. Std jetting recommendation from GGUSA is: 2004-05 TXT280-300 PRO WITH PHBL26 (26mm) SEA LEVEL TO 3,000 FEET MAIN: 118 (115 OK, NOTHING SMALLER!) PILOT: 36 (38 OK) NEEDLE: D36 (3rd, or 2nd CLIP POSITION DOWN FROM TOP) FUEL SCREW: 3.5 TURNS OUT FLOAT HEIGHT: ARMS IN LEVEL PLANE WITH FLOAT BOWL BASE (PARALLEL)" I found that i had a lean bog when on a 33 pilot when i quickly opened the throttle from idle. There was no bog actually driving about but the lean condition could be affecting bottom end grunt. I had been using the 33 for a while so was used to the smooth bottom end and power (or lack of). So i then used the technique above to get rid of the lean bog and found that it dissipated when i had a 36 pilot at 3.5 turns out on the fuel screw. But then i drove the bike to find that the bottom was no where as smooth, it was as if the bike could put along as slow. The idle and driving about was a lot more "PUTTY" My problem is that i don't know if that it normal and i am used to the 33 being so smooth. I live in the UK and the bike is a sherco 290 2008(no air leaks, clean filter etc etc) What i have heard is the the fuel quality has decrease over the years thus the lean bog on 33. There are many that say that a 36 is what is needed now, but i am not sure if people actually use it. However in my case it does seem to be true as it cured the bog. I would like to know what set up you are using Thanks
  10. With a 36 pilot and 118 main installed, at 3 turns out on the fuel screw it still bogged (only very little though)!!!!!! Turned it to 3.5 turns out and that sorted it. With the 118 that cope suggested it still revs fast and clean. 3.5 turns out seems a bit much for a 36??? I drove it around and the bike pulls more but still with a responsive throttle, seems fine to me now.
  11. The floats arms are a fraction above level which i believe is what there meant to be. The air filter is cleaned and oiled with foam filter oil after every ride. The spark plug always seemed to go black as if its too rich and that was with a 33/118 at 3 turns out? That jetting is quite lean i thought as it made the bike make the characteristic lean bog sound. I read somewhere that if your piston rings are worn that can blacken the spark plug as it lets oil through????, is that true? I have changed the rings so ill see if it still goes black now. The crank seals have both been changed so there's no oil leaking in from there. Thanks for that guide ill give it a go!
  12. I'v got a 36 and 120 coming. I'll report back after iv tested it.
  13. Right, i cleaned the carb/jets and put fresh fuel in the tank(this was still on the 33/188)... no difference. The bog got worst the the leaner the fuel screw was from 3.5 but still done it at 3.5. It turns out i have a 35 pilot and 122 main in my spare parts box. So i put them in and tried it at 3.5 turns out... 90% of the time there was no bog, then i put the screw to 3 turns out and the bog happen more. Seems to have fixed it mostly , but i am thinking of trying a 36 pilot to see if the bog never happens at all. Would it be all normal to use a 35/36 pilot with a 122 main? I have just rebuilt the top end and the compression has increased could this have been the reason that it needs to be more rich?
  14. I have a 36 pilot and a 122 main already, so I'll give it a try if cleaning the carb doesn't work. Could water in the fuel cause it maybe?
  15. No, its a fuel screw, 3 - 3.5 turns out is normal. I would like to clean the exhaust however am not sure how to, is there anything that you can put in the exhaust that will brake up the carbon that doesn't damage the aluminium?
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