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bultaco82

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  1. I think the 6004 is quite common for the rear wheel on most makes of bikes. I have changed them on a Gas Gas, a Sherco and my understanding the Trs's use them as well. Many woodworking tools use them as well, routers, lipping planers to name a couple. Napa usually stocks them in a couple different grades (prices) so they are readily available locally. Sorry just saw you were not from the US. Check your local auto parts store. They probably carry them or can get them easily.
  2. If it's like my older Sherco, check that the shift return spring is not broken. The shift lever did not return to center on mine and made it difficult to shift up or down with my foot. I had to bring it back to the neutral position by hand most of the time. The spring seems to fracture and can look to be in good shape until it is removed. Then the fracture is visible. Sometimes they break and get into gears and such. I don't think I would leave it too long if this is the problem. Best of luck!
  3. On my wife's 2005 gasgas125, I actually had to bend the fingers to get the right height. The pack was in the right thickness range but still dragged. So I pulled the fingers and lightly tapped on each one until I got the recommended height. It has worked well for two or three years anyways. Has anyone else tried this? For oil I've used the ford atf and change fairly frequently. Again, that has worked for several years and the clutch still works well.
  4. Sounds and looks like what I did this summer,except I didn't tear the mounting holes. Short gap between a rock and a log but i hit the log instead of lifting to the top of it. Wrenched things around and popped my knee backwards. I couldn't walk on it for a few days. It sure was quite a surprise since I was going very slowly.
  5. My son's 250 Factory had problems with the clutch fluid leaking this way. The clutch slave hose had too much bend in it and it hit the transmission case and couldn't be tightened properly. I don't know the final solution but sherco had a fix. Talk to your dealer or Ryan Young.
  6. That rubber part looks like an extension to the rear mud flap used to keep the dirt off the shock. The hole would go over the ring that the bottom of the stock mudflap slides into and hangs down to the swingarm to stop dirt and mud. Hope that helps.
  7. Sounds like the gasket between the header pipe and the cylinder is what you are seeing. If so, pull it out and put it around the end of the header pipe and then install header pipe.The gasket should have some give to it.
  8. Thanks for the replies! Oil is changed often and a was done a week ago. Sounds like I have to open it up and check for a notched basket or polished plates. I did the Beta fix when I bought the bike (used)and filed the fingers then. Thanks again!
  9. I have a 2011 Sherco 290 and I'm starting to have trouble with the clutch. The clutch pack is the original and now it does not release predictably. In a section when I pull the clutch lever in, I have about a 15% chance it will keep pulling for another 2 to 4 feet before releasing. If it were a GasGas ,I'd say the clutch pack had swollen. Would this be the case with the Sherco pack also or are the plates just worn out? Anyone else experience this? Thoughts or ideas? Thanks!
  10. bultaco82

    Fan Motor

    I have the same bike and I periodically spray the fan motor with silicone spray.(once or twice a season) I've kept the fan going for two or three years that way. Good luck!
  11. I have a 2011 290 Sherco and had the flooding problem when transporting the bike. You need a fuel shut off installed. The vibration when transporting causes the floats to open and shut. With no shut off and apparently the design of the fuel pump, it will overfill the float bowl till it runs into the motor. That was the only time I had flooding problems. I had to drain the motor when I got to an event to get it started and when I got it home after an event, the same thing. The shut off cured it.
  12. I have a 2011 Sherco 290 with a leaking right fork. It started leaking at the end of the season so I figured a new seal was in order.This winter I pulled the forks off, drained and tore them down. The cartridge was pumped out and cleaned. New seals installed, forks rebuilt and filled. I installed them and continued working on other maintenance issues. The bike has been on a stand with the forks up in the air. Last night I noticed the fork was leaking again. It has not had any pressure on it yet. I filled it to the Splatshop recommended air gap of 55mm with the fork and cartridge compressed. I am at a total loss as to where to start. Help please!
  13. These are the photo's of my clutch tool. Hope they help out.
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