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japes1275

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  1. The rear wheel definitely isn’t original WD, it should be a QD ‘crinkle’ type hub with steel backplate. That looks to be standard B40 alloy backplate and full width cast iron hub. Try contacting Lee Mitchell at bsawdb40.com, he should be able to tell you more from the frame number.
  2. Don’t fix what isn’t broken - the problem is that it was broken years ago and there probably isn’t any way back. The only way back would be for all the clubs in the UK to sign up to the same organising body and for that body to come up with some proper rules. Even with the mix of original or fully tricked up bikes we have now there could be some scope for classes for everyone. The problem would be getting everyone to sign up to it, getting everyone to agree on the rules and of course getting people to pay the extra entry fees required - the blazers, tie and badges for scrutineers and officials aren’t cheap! When I started observing then riding pre 65 was kind of in its infancy. My bike was a genuine early 1960’s trials bike but was only just over 20 years old. It’s now 35 years on from then and I suppose it’s no wonder that an unregulated sport has (unfortunately) moved on to be somewhat different. But having said that I went and watched a pre 65 trial a few weeks ago, there were original and trick bikes, male and female riders, an age range from early 20’s to early 80’s and everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves immensely. So maybe it’s not that broken after all.
  3. All very true Colly, basically the horse has bolted on regulating things. My argument isn’t against modifying the bikes, it’s the fact that anything goes and so it means bikes with lesser mods aren’t as competitive. I actually like the really well modified bikes and can see why people want to ride them (apart from Bantams!). Let’s face it pre 65 trials tends to be an older persons sport so as we get older a nice Cub is going to appeal more than a big pre unit. Its a difficult sport to make things suit everyone. The wider the difference between classes and machines mean the requirement to have more routes which is a lot of work for the clerk of the course. It’s easy on a race track for example, you can run an event with 10 races ranging from mopeds to GP bikes all on the same bit of tarmac! But my basic point still stands, the main parts of the machine should have been made in the pre 65 era (or be exact copies of) with modifications allowed depending on class.
  4. To me at least the frame, forks, hubs and engine should be British, pre 65 and original. Perhaps not necessarily from the same machine but at least from the same manufacturer. By original I don’t mean exactly as they were, that would be daft, but maintained with replacement parts in keeping with the age of the bike. Basically nothing more modified than the best works bikes of the era. The problem is is that the machines aren’t checked for eligibility with the regulations before each event and on top of that the regulations aren’t up to scratch. For example most regs say that replica frames and yokes are allowed. Replica by definition means a copy of. So which manufacturer in the sixties or earlier made frames by welding tubes together? And I don’t think yokes were made by machining holes in a lump of aluminium. You easily buy and ride a genuine pre 65 British bike but unfortunately you would find yourself up against ridiculously over modified machines with new frames and superbly damped forks with double the movement. Don’t get me wrong there is a place for these over modified bikes but they shouldn’t be in the same class as the real bikes.
  5. Try asking on the TL125 Facebook page. Loads of help on there from all round the world. Original tank is steel and quite thin. They do come up on eBay occasionally.
  6. This is a good place for Honda part numbers and diagrams which might be of some use if you haven’t found it already: https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle/250-MOTO/TRIAL I can’t find your exact model but you might be able find something similar. It’s not the easiest site to navigate so good luck! John
  7. Thanks Stan, unfortunately I’m stuck with a 19” rim as I’m trying to keep it as original as possible. I did consider having a second wheel built up with an 18” rim but as it’s really going to be more of a general use bike there didn’t seem to be much point.
  8. Thanks for that rabie, sounds promising for the Mitas then.
  9. I use Pirelli MT43 tyres on my B40 which unlike a lot of trials tyres are ok for road use. I once tried a Michelin trials competition and after a couple of miles it heated up and the bike was un rideable. I want a tyre for my Norton but as it has a 19” wheel tyre choice is limited. Pirelli don’t do an MT43 and the only others I can find are an Ensign which isn’t really a proper trials tyre and a Mitas. The Mitas looks like a full 400x19 trials tyre but I’m unsure as to whether it will be too soft for the road. The bike will mostly be used on the road but I might do the occasional long distance trial etc. I’m not bothered about wear characteristics or trials grip but it needs to be ok on the road. Has anyone tried the Mitas 400x19 trials tyre that confirm it is hard enough for road use? Thanks
  10. I’ve got the receipt when mine had it’s 150 conversion done by the dealer in 1975 before my dad bought it new. Still going strong today!
  11. Have you tried Google Images? Just tried it and it comes up with loads - some aren’t that clear though. Also comes up with links to the odd thread on forums asking similar questions to yours.
  12. Er, surely if scot buys a Drayton frame and a load of modern bits he'll end up with something totally different to a proper pre65 trials bike?! BSA had a bit of an idea about trials bikes and what they did was convert a standard C15 and turned it into a trials bike - admittedly one that still needed loads of work to make it competitive!! I agree with what has been said though, it will cost a fortune in time and money, better to buy one already done or perhaps half done?
  13. Thanks Jon, I've thought I might get Dave to rebuild my B40 and give it a bit more oomph so good to hear you're happy. I've got the RR engine book, must get the other two sometime.
  14. I used to have mine the 'right' way up because to me they look right that way. I had a few comments but the thing that made me change them was because I noticed that mud gathered on the top of the damper where the piston rod slides which I thought might wear the seals quicker.
  15. Esso Super unleaded is reputed to be ethanol free at the moment. I think there might be a couple of exceptions geographically such as the South west. I looked at the Ethanil kits but was put off by the fact that it significantly lowers the octane level, might not be a problem to most trials bikes though.
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