Jump to content

dantxtpro

Members
  • Posts

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Information
 
   
  1. As you may have read in my other thread my front calliper was dragging causing the system to get so hot it boiled which produced air and thus I lost all brake pressure. I spoke to the chap at splats and I decided to go for a complete seal kit so I have the reassurance the calliper will have fresh pistons and seals, hopefully reducing the chances of binding in future. I removed calliper and obviously the top ( longer ) calliper bolt acts as the calliper joining bolt and to attach to the bike through a mounting hole. The bottom bolt however purely acts as the lower calliper bolt ( holding the 2 halves of the calliper together) this is a 5mm Allen head and the bolt is so tight that eventually my Allen key rounded also rounding the internal faces of the bolt. Being a steel bolt in aluminium threads there is a corrosive reaction that's taken place effectively seizing it solid. Previous to the Allen key rounding I did apply heat to the threaded end of the bolt but to now evail. I'm literally screwed as I can't think how I'm going to undo this bolt without a secure place to apply torsional pressure. Trying to weld a nut to it is going to be hard and potentially damage the aluminium body. I was thinking of drilling the head off then splitting the calliper and using mole grips on the remaining stud or place the stud in a vice a twist calliper. Does anyone know if the bolt head is stepped into the calliper body or if it sits flush on top? I see now they use normal hexagonal bolt heads so a socket can be used!!! Mine is a 2009 please people I need help I can't be the only person to have experienced this!!
  2. I used my bike the other day and when travelling on a road section I noticed after a duration of high revs ( in 6th gear) there was masses of blue smoke pouring from the exhaust. I changed the fuel as thought the mix may have been to rich and seems ok now but just wondered why after running cleanly for over an hour that it only started bellowing smoke after the high revs. By nature 2 strokes are comfortable with high revs?
  3. I was riding the other day when suddenly I lost all front brake pressure on the lever, then the calliper started to drag causing the disc to cook! I drained fluid and re bled system and thought the problem was solved but yet again about 30 mins into ride the front brake lever lost all compression and the brake started to bind. As previous when disc seems to cool ( and calliper) the pressure comes back but I'm far from happy as this brake failure happened while I was travelling on a road section!! Very odd how brakes ( front only) will be fine then loose them completely then once cooled ( heat generated from binding) the lever pressure returns. I will now have to replace all seals in calipers as probably ruined due to excess heat. It's not as if they are being subject to hard use as usually failing when trialing. Many thanks Dan
  4. Thanks arnoux, correct I have the bike stood upright and the funnily enough dad suggested exactly that possible fault this morning. Silly mistake on my behalf but I'm new to bikes in general I was so worried about the needle rollers dropping out of thrust bearing I thought best to fit upright.... How wrong I was! cooling system is now fully of coolant on refitment of cutch cover the water pump seal weeped coolant when slight pressure ( hard to avoid) was applied laterally to the pump drive shaft. Is it best to replace seal or will it be ok once aligned when installed. If there's no visible damage to clutch fingers would you just clean up and leave?
  5. Cheers guys i fired it up the next day and let it run warm then wiped clutch cover dry and let it sit. On further inspection it appeared the kick start oil seal was knackered. Now got a whole bunch of new problems if you can help please check out the thread ( fouling on clutch cover, clutch drags)
  6. Hi I have a GG txt pro 250cc 2009 I pre apologise for my ignorance as I'm new to trailing. My kick start oil seal started to leak so I disconnected the clutch cover, clutch slave cylinder pipe so I could fully remove the cover for ease of working. Today I replaced the seal along with cover gaskets. I'd been given a suggestion as how to install the slave cylinder ( top hat) back into it's position without inducing an air pocket. I filled the top hat first then proceeded to slide it over it's platform once this was achieved I brimmed the cover from hose side and connected hose. I started the bike up to notice the clutch was dragging and the biting point was really close to the grip which was the opposite to previously. I've bled and bled and bled the system and seem to have purged the system of any air but it's still dragging and a low bite point. My other more worrying discovery was that when the bike was running I could hear a noise coming from the clutch side of engine. When I yet again removed the clutch cover to investigate I was shocked to see there's been fouling to the inside of the clutch cover. I can only assume it's the clutch pack but there are no witnesses. I measured the new gasket thickness and compared to the original it's around .06mm under size which I can't see being the cause as it's minute. All needle rollers remained in thrust bearing and thin metal washer also remained in correct position on kick start shaft so cannot be either of them. I just wondered if there's an already known cause before I have to pay for someone to look at it. Bike was faultless before this.
  7. I'm new to trials and biking so please excuse my ignorance. Recently purchased a 2009 gas gas txt 250cc pro and it's been faultless until today when after riding it I stood it up while I attended to something else and when I returned I noticed a small puddle of oil ( gearbox) I can't see any obvious sources and when it's cold it doesn't leak so I can only think that once it gets warm the plastic cover expands enough to allow oil to leak from this illusive hole crack etc. It looks asif there is oil on the bottom left clutch casing bolt... Going to run bike until warm tomorrow and re tighten these casing bolts. Any idea what torque these should be?? Many thanks Dan
×
  • Create New...