muz122

Well what a wally I feel now! No excuses....but that's the problem with rebuilding 3 months after a strip down. Thank god for you guys!

Hi chaps, Jim Snell says in his video 'don't force or pound at the casings when refitting'. Is this because they're are known to be an absolute b***ch?!? Had them apart to do crank bearings. Transmission set has been out (removed; not disassembled) for a clean but back in exactly as removed and is spinning nicely. I've removed parts one-by-one for elimination and the only thing that seems to be causing my obstruction is the bush on the secondary shaft, with the 2 o-rings inside. I have changed the bearing that this mates against, but have double checked the size and fitment. Am I going mad, or missing something obvious?

Hi all, just to update the thread for future readers. Skimmed one of the clutch metal plates 0.25mm which corrected the finger height to just under 17mm. New kickstart gear ( the 6 tooth gear), stopper etc. Clutch now lovely and light like it's supposed to be There is still a rumble type noise when kicking which was there before and was hoping the above work would cure it. Once started it's fine, unless the engine noise overpowers the rumbling noise. Also when rolling it in gear, the same noise can be heard. I'll video it later and upload Thanks again!

Quick update....found my clutch pack is 10.20mm and finger height at 11.90mm. So, I'll start by shaving 0.3mm from a clutch metal plate which should give me an extra 6mm finger height and a nice light clutch! Happy I've found the 3 problems (broken starter gear, broken starter stopper and out of spec clutch thickness). Nothing worse than stripping something down and not finding anything! Thanks again.

Thanks for your reply. I should have mentioned, the particles are from the starter gear....2 missing teeth! Will do my measurements later and see what I find. Thanks again, Matt

Hi everyone, Just stripped my clutch down to see what parts need ordering to cure my clutch drag/difficult starting/noisy kick. I think the bike is a 2003, but understand the 2002 has a different clutch set up so need to be sure (gas gas website only has parts diagrams for 01 or 03). Been looking at the Jim Snell videos, my clutch cover o-rings look similar in size, as per the 2002, however the interior of the cover and the slave spring match more with 2003. I may be wrong though. Also, there is a broken up plastic part under the kick start shaft bearing, no idea what it is and if it might have been related to my problems?! Thanks again in advance for all your help.

Unfortunately all parts are obsolete. I should be able to get the washers custom made, but the bushes may just have to be reused.

Are the left and right washers supposed to be different? The left (spring) side is flat, whereas the right is tapered.

Thanks for the replies everyone, I really appreciate the effort you lot go to in helping other riders. I finally got around to stripping down the forks today. Was hoping to find a snapped spring or something obviously wrong that needed repairing, however, everything seems normal although I'm not sure what the standard spring length should be. Having said that, I'm not convinced the amount of oil drained out was enough (forgot to measure it). I believe it should have 250 ml each side, according to one of the above diagrams. Wasn't leaking but could have been before I bought it. Guess it looks like a a rebuild with new seals and oil and see if it's sorted! Thanks again.

Hi all. Finally got the '95 250 running sweet thanks to Langcourt for doing a lovely job on the cylinder. Riding yesterday I noticed I can easily bottom-out the front forks without much effort at all. I'm about 85Kg with kit, but it was much firmer before. No leaks. Bike was standing for a long while before I bought it. I've no issues stripping the forks down, but just stealing some of your knowledge and experience, as being in Thailand, if I strip down to investigate, then order and wait for the parts, the bike could be off the road for a month. I'd rather just order the parts so I can keep riding (smooth stuff). Thanks chaps!

Will find out when my new caliper arrives. Don't suppose you know what the offset should be? Or just equal/centred? I'll try and find a good wheel builder. Cheers.

Wondered that myself! Thought it was maybe a trials thing, but I've not seen anyone else do it.

Hi all, seem to have a bit of a front wheel issue on my recently purchased 94/95 Techno. Riding yesterday i noticed to front fender was catching the tyre, so today i whipped the fender off and was surprised to see the wheel not central between the forks, is this normal for this model? I thought maybe the chap who just trued the wheel may have had the end caps out and put them back in wrong, but swapping them almost centers things back up, but the disk bolts catch on the forks. The last owner had fitted some washers behind the disk, maybe he thought they weren't supposed to be 'wobbly' but I heard they are floating disks? Anyway, removed them and the bolts still catch. Now the larger of the end caps is fitted to the disk side of the hub (how it was). Many thanks in advance for any advice.

Hello all. Totally new to trials, have just bought a 94 or 94 Beta Techno to polish up on my skills for enduro, but I'm really liking the trials riding! Only been out twice so far and I'm hooked. Although enduro and MX are fairly well established over here, trials are not, so I'll really be relying on forums and videos for advice. Look forward to using this forum and being part of this amazing sport!