taffmeister

they aren't replying to myself or the man that bought two at the same time. I would have thought 400rpm idle was a bit low for tickover? I'll have to experiment I reckon. to me 6d should be over advanced but the proof of the pudding will be in the eating. thanks anyway Taffy

has anyone with a more modern 2T any idea what the timing advance is at idle using a timing strobe light? I have mine at 6d BTDC at tickover at present and am about to experiment with 4d but based upon the simple fact that more modern trials bike already have this sussed I'd like to know? anyone tried this trivial and silly game on a bike that doesn't even need it? so lads: ignition advance at idle on any modern 2T trials bike please? my bike Bultaco 250cc with electrex ignition. regards Taffy

here is the result of the testing to this point. Mikuni VM28mm carb. electrex world ignition fitted 'in the middle' as requested. total wan&^%$. just been jetting my Bultaco 250 Sherpa for the last 6-weeks. fantastic voyage! 290 MJ 260MJ 230Mj 200MJ 180MJ ignition retarded 160MJ C3 to c5 c5 to c1 c3 grade 6 plug 145Mj 45 to 30PJ c2 c1 retarded the ignition (now the correct timing using strobe 6d BTDC at idle) grade 7 plug 130mj needle c4 c2 c1 c3 25PJ 45PJ (all I had) 30PJ slide cutaway 3.15 down to 2.25. skimmed slide (by someone else) so needle in c4 is infact in c3. call it where it is here though. 30PJ 25 17.5 22.5 still miles to go but already a totally different bike. try a 20PJ and then go to: need to try a 2.5mm cutaway and a 25-35PJ get an anti-slosh cup design a MAJ test MJ test again with a 125 and a 135MJ. needle up and down regards Taffy

whato woody i will now try your idea now I know that the top alloy parts CAN be removed! I did say "5d BTDC" that was degrees mate! I believe this ignition system has 22d of advance someone said if I recall. so 5d plus 22d = maximum advance of 27d BTDC. this is a guestimate as whoever said it - I can't recall. the clutch on my PM124 has nuts. I also have a duplex primary chain. crossover gearchange shaft for gears on the left which I'm told in 1975 was rare. the crossover shaft has smaller splines than later Bultacos so that a Bultaco left-side gearlever can't be used. I need a pair of rear shocks now. can't decide what to get. jetting and ignition will be modified this Saturday. thanks again for the advice. regards Taffy I need to go buy the SM chrome toast rack I guess for rigid forks.

as a newbie trials ride but avid British Motor Cyle Industry buff I'd like to stick my two penna-worth in! DMW probably the largest manufacturer in the UK never to have had a history book written about them. even DOT got a booklet! I went over to the Manx GP two years ago and stayed at the Glen Mona Hotel in well.....Glen Mona! On the Thursday I was introduced to the chef who is now in her 80's and walks 5-10 miles per day. she spoke with a thick brummie accent and it turned out to be Dawson's daughter. she said that in public the small factories were all meant to be rivals but behind the scenes they got on well and discussed things a lot. her dad ran the business with her and her brother. she went to the ISDT in '65 and fell in love with someone over on the Island. she told dad she was upping sticks and going to leave. at the same time father had a heart attack and when he felt better they lost the Villiers engines due to Dennis "p***" Poore the pillock and Dawson completely lost heart. apparently her brother also lives over there now but they don't speak. someone needs to get what her and her brother have to say down on paper before it's too late and they are gone for good.... regards Taffy

hello Woody et al I'd like to get the pistons off the fork legs but I can't seem to get the alloy tubes off one end ot the steel top hats off the other. I have WP fork rings here and will utilise them on this job. the bikes handling isn't as bad as I thought I guess.... getting really good results now - well for a beginner. I dropped 8 marks for the whole day last Sunday (3 x 15) with Dabbers MCC. I'd like to get these forks done and also can anyone identify the pair of levers on the front? they were really nice and matching but one broke? I have had to spend good money on the Mikuni VM26. new atomiser, needle, slide, choke button, slosh cap, PJ, MJ, fuel valve. you name it, it's had it! now I'm told to go for a 130MJ but several have said it seems too lean? they reckon a TY175 needs a 150MJ so these shouldn't be less? the electrex world electronic ignition works well but we have no real idea of the correct ignition timing so i want to try and set this using a strobe at 5d BTDC? anywadvances on this? at the moment we're rich with a 180MJ and RETARDED at something like 15d ATDC. i'm surprised it's running but better than that she's excellent! I had a tough clutch so backed all the springs off. been running a 30 year old rear tyre but am building up wheels with steel liners, new wheel bearings and seals, spokes, rim tape, tubes and tyres. there's a few bob! the front end easily twists with the old '71 yokes in - but what can you do hey? more to follow. regards Taffy

well oddly enough the rear shocks are shot and I can't speak lowly enough about the present forks. there's no oil in the rear and not only that but someone welded eyelets above the top of the std fitment thus jacking the rear. fact is, if the headstock has been sharppened 4d then the offset MUST be reduced accordingly. it's about 2mm to each degree and so I need to lose 8mm and I figure the offset right now is 36.5mm give or take with the 1971 set. '71s don't have a top pinch bolt and have a taper to the top of the legs. the 1975 set that I'm preparing to fit seem to have an offset of 30mm. this 30mm therefore needs to become 22mm give or take. it should explain that I'm getting the double whammy of a jacked rear end AND on a bike that needed 8mm less offset before that happened! I'd have liked to try a set of SWMs if I could get them measured more accurately than running around the paddock poking a vernier where it doesn't want to fit! as for space to the zorst well I check that everytime I pull the front end down on the trailer and at full travel there's 10mm still so I fear nothing there. thanks for the advice on the internals, i'll have a look at that? being 15 stone do I want to lose 25% travel stood or 33% on the forks? new rear shocks coming up.... but I daren't buy them till the offset and feel at the front is partially sorted. I've got re chromed legs, steel sleeved brake hubs, new spokes, new wheel bearings and seals and I'm going to try SKF seals as I sell them and they are sooo fab on everything else! the quality is tops..... new IRC tyres and shocks will finish the job nicely. it looked so pretty on ebay................ regards Taffy

Hello I run a sammy miller framed Bultaco which has a 1975 PM124 engine fitted. it came with a 1971 front wheel and probably the 1971 forks and clamps as well also a Montesa rear. So, I've managed to grab a barn find: a 1975 PM125 350 and will be using the forks and wheels off this to get the age of it right. alas the offset is no different between the two bikes and already the front is a nightmare when I trial the bike. the front drives on or tucks under so I reckon I need less offset (and more trail) in the clamps. yesterday at a Dabbers trial, after much measuring the nearest i can get is a set of SWMs or Honda TLRs. the Honda clamps look as if I'll have far too little offset. is there anyone who knows what to do here? I believe Sammy is meant to have had the right clamps made at one time? if true I'd like to find a set but if not justy knowing what the flip I need for the right offset would be a huge help! thanks Taffy