robd0gg

I'm not much of a ty250 expert, but before even thinking about replacing fork seals, make sure to give them a good clean with a Sealmate.. I've had many a weaping seal clean right up with a few careful swipes of a Sealmate..

so not sure how this got turned in to a TY250 footrest post, as was stated by others, the 250 mounts and 175 mounts are not the same.. also, I am not talking about a simple lowering kit that only drops the rests a half inch or so and moves them back a half inch.. but a bolt on the frame replacement kit such as shown below. I remounted the aftermarket pegs, in the original position to show the difference.. having mounted the new kit, I think the shifter and brake lever distances are manageable.. as I have owned other modern trials bikes before.. so no changes other then adjusting the resting height of the levers since the new position is about an inch higher; and five inches or so further back.. now I just need to figure out how to keep the right footrest up out of the way so I can kick the motor over.. probably just a simple elastic band or old bicycle innertube arrangement thanks to those that stayed on topic and were helpful.. the rest of you, make your own threads.. hehe

I see. the reason I asked about whether this was a factory option on the 175 is because of the threaded bolt inserts on the frame that these kits seem to bolt right up to..

just picked up a 75 TY175. It has footrests that are bolted on the lower part of the frame.. below the kickstarter/CS sprocket. I see that there are kits to move them back, so I assume that was a factory option for these bikes? (I'm just starting to learn about these bikes so please bear with me). secondly, and more importantly, I see what look like a couple of different kits (or maybe they are all the same?) but wondering if I need to also replace the shifter/brake lever? I've ridden modern trials so I am used to the shifter being well forward of the left footrest, but wondering more about the brake lever.. it looks like the stock lever will require a bit of a stretch to reach with the rear mounted foot rests.. thanks for your insights

wow.. not sure I have anything to help you with, but that's pretty disturbing how's it coming along?

well, did my first event last weekend, at Goldendale Washington, site of the 2001 Worlds.. I rode the bike as is, no changes.. now granted, I did the novice track, but still, the sections had lots of rocks, tight turns and elevation.. many of the sections were on steep side slope, dry, loose dirt and soil etc.. but bottom line, the bike was awesome.. after the first loop, we were getting along just fine.. never dropped it or looped, never even stalled, a sweet machine in other words.. based on reports here, I was expecting it to jump out of my hands and lurch wildly out of control any second, or worse, launch me off a rock ledge and skip on uncontrollably with the throttle pinned WFO bucking off in to the distance like an untamed wild stallion, never to be seen again.. nah, never happened

the only thing it tells me is there is no agreement on this topic.. but that's ok, it's why I asked the questions to begin with, to get an overall impression, particularly from anyone that is similar to my size (big), skillz (little) and with those two bikes specifically. as my story illustrated above, people have said the same thing about a 100 different machines over the decades.. I've owned about a dozen different KTM bikes, several of them were 2st, and there is endless debate about this exact same topic, when discussing differences between the various models/displacements. My KTM 300, which weighs about 220, and puts out about 50hp, was definitely something to be respected, but I was much more fond of it and the power band then the KTM 250. anyway, thank for the perspectives

so by your calculations, that's only like 40 people in the world that can tame this bike? because they only made 800.. back in 1972, my uncle bought a MX bike called the Suzuki TM400 Cyclone.. much of the press said it was practically unridable or at very least, had some unsafe characteristics. On his first race at Ascot Park in Gardena he whisky throttled off the big TT jump (big for the day) and came down hard, smacked his chin on the crossbar, busted some teeth, cut a big gash in his lip, but he got up and kicked it over, and finished the race.. point being, my uncle, who went on to ride pro for a couple of years, at the time was a fairly average rider, but he learned to control that beast.. rip uncle steve

please enlighten this newb

hello friends.. I'm a long time enduro rider, and fairly new trials rider (1yr ish) and started on a 2006 280 txt pro.. I've upgraded to a 2014 300 factory replica (it's in transit, so haven't ridden it yet, but I briefly test rode the same model before around in a parking lot). So I am a novice rider, 57yrs old, XXL sized, and have competed in two events, and dying to do more, with tons of experience riding, but still learning the finesse it takes for this sport I am wondering if one might recommend whether a flywheel weight, and/or a slow throttle tube would be of use in my learning, both of the sport, and given the increased displacement, and in light of my background.. I would say that I have heard, that the 300 is actually a bit softer off the throttle then the smaller displacement, and I can agree with this general statement, as I have owned small bore two strokes, and that has been my experience.. my KTM 250 for example, was quite a bit snappier, then my KTM 300. The 250 power was very controllable (no flywheel weight, but a G2 throttle tube), and quite easy to ride, but the 300 even more so. opinions please.. I'm thinking I may not need to be too concerned, but this sport is so different from other forms of riding.

Lewisport has OEM and S3. I'll probably just flip a coin.. but good tip about checking the width and mixing the steel plates in.. thank you

Do you have a US distributor for DP clutch? the one I checked with (some place in Indiana I think) didn't have a kit for my year/model. The S3 kit is only around $140, so doesn't seem too costly to me..

My 2006 280TXT Pro is in need of a rebuild.. OEM or S3? S3 is slightly cheaper

I have nothing regarding the screw, but agree with others, your riding locations are spectacular. As a long time trail rider, but new to trials (06 280 TXT), how do you get the fuel range to get so far out? does your bike have a larger fuel tank? do you carry extra fuel in your pack? just looking for options.

this thread..