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Tyres are special waste in Norway. Any dealer have to take it in for free. Perhaps that goes for you too? Keep the nature clean

Hi. I'm a fixing dad for my two boy's, and soon for my little 6 year old daughter. We live in West coast of Norway, and we are members in a very active Trail club. I have fixed one Beta, and are soon starting on the new bike for my middle child. I'm locking forward to know some of you, and perhaps learn a great deal. I will gladly share everything I've learnt so far. Sevre

Hi everyone. It took me a rather long time to figure out this with gearoil and clutch. Everyone have an opinion, cheap ATF or this and that. I want to share what I’ve learnt. My soon have an EVO125 2012 two stroke as his first bike. And we overhauled it before putting it in use. 1. The gear and clutch is in the same sump. Therefore you have to use an oil witch allows the clutch plates to disengage. NO ATF. That’s for automatic transmissions, and have no extra in it for disengaging the clutchplates. But it’s cheap……. 2. The amount is in manual 550ml. I’ve tried that, and so far so good. 3. Coolant. I use the red glycol, because it don’t interfere with any metal inside the engine. Can be used with aluminum and so on. My recommendation for gear oil is as follows Castrol MTX Full Synthetic 75W-140. This is designed for 2T and 4T with wet and dry clutch. It’s expensive, but it’s nothing you use a lot. (If you use cheap oil, it must be replaced often) When I changed too this oil, we could hear the noise from the engine disappear, and it’s running smooth. You will get what you pay for, at least with this oil. Clutch problem, not disengaging properly ! (Have too open lid, and dismantle the plates) Just check that you don’t have grooves or big marks where the plates (fiberplates and steel plates) are engage in the clutch cup (engine) and inner cup (gear). Grooves will look the plates, and disengaging the plates will be difficult. The bike will drag you forward. I hope I’m not stepping in an Ant nest now ? Sevre