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contiki

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  1. great videos. the landscape looks exactly like this part of Pennsylvania. except, we have fewer trials riders...
  2. funny. However, it proves that we are bozos who can't have nice things.
  3. the puller thread is reverse, but the center nut is standard.
  4. thanks again. i'll post what i come up with...
  5. thanks for the feedback. i hadn't given much thought to the time spent hiking. I remember that being miserable in my mx boots. i'll have to look around a bit. My ty has narrow pegs, i may have to consider firmer soles.
  6. so, after a long stretch, I'm getting a TY together for next spring. I have never had proper gear. Always a cobbled together bike, used helmets and second-hand MX boots. This time around, I have a little more $ to work with, a solid machine, and the time to haul it to more events. My first hitch, is what to do about boots. I have never seen a pair of trials-specific boots in any shop. What about them is better suited to the sport. Less armor, I'm guessing, softer? I've been looking at the Gaerne oiled boots, and wonder about the big gum soles. Are they rigid enough to keep the pegs from digging into your arch? are the tops soft? do they make shifting difficult? these may be stupid questions, but I'm going to have to order something online since I can't see them in person.
  7. contiki

    Ty 175 Footpegs

    that site is fantastic. if shipping isn't too crazy, there are a bunch of things I could use. thanks
  8. contiki

    Ty 175 Footpegs

    i was thinking about this as well. I'm tempted to grind that little spur off, so the peg can swing all the way up. It's seems to flop down at exactly the wrong moment.
  9. thanks very much. can you get a measurement on the other as well?
  10. there's a long story assiciated with this question, I'll skip that. can anyone tell me how long that straight pushrod is supposed to be? i had my bike apart to figure out why the clutch dragged, and the ball bearing was missing. I had one here, put it where it belongs, and now the clutch slips. I have the cable disconnected, and the cam/lever thing on the case is barely touching the pushrod. I'm wondering now if someone put a longer rod in there and left the ball out on purpose.
  11. don't get rattled. if the problem was trash in the float needle, it's possible that new trash has made it's way down from the tank and cheesed you again. If it were me, I would pull the tank, slosh some clean fuel through it, flush out the tap, and maybe replace the fuel lines and filter. If everything upstream is clean and happy, you might be set. you're going to have to check the carb again to see if it's the same issue as before.
  12. i'm guessing you've checked to see that the plug is gapped correctly, and that your fuel tap isn't filled with debris? It almost sounds starved for fuel once it's running. carb slide isn't all scraped up and grooved? air leaking in from that can cause trouble also.
  13. "There should be two other, similar pipe connectors on the carb, one to balance the air in the float bowl and one to balance the air in the carb body, it's often normal to use the same tube looped around to each connector, but doing this it needs a hole or split in it somewhere to allow air to enter/exit." this is very useful, but leaves me with a question.. the tube that might be running from the throttle body to the float bowl, is it supposed to be 2 separate runs? vented to somewhere? On my bike, one line connected the two, but it looked half-assed so I assumed t was wrong. right now they're both capped.
  14. thanks. i have some 3/16' bearings left over from the headset. hopefully get it sorted over the weekend.
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