Jump to content

queenmonkey

Members
  • Posts

    11
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Information
 
   
Recent Profile Visitors
 
 

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

 
  1. Hi naichuff and thanks for your quick response. The rings are below the top of the barrel and the pistons clears the gasket without lifting it. What i didn't do is place the piston in the recess of the see if it's ok. What i've since done is place the head over the studs and turned the engine over without putting the nuts on. When it gets to tdc it very slightly lifts the head so i suspect it's fouling. No i don't think the head has been skimmed but can't be sure. I suspect the top of the barrel may have been very slightly (in comparison with another barrel i have), The piston i have is a low comp. The barrel and head that i'm using had a high comp fitted but i thought they were all interchangeable?
  2. Hi Guys, i'm hoping someone might be able to help with a problem i'm having. I'm assembling a cub that i brought in (many) parts. I've had the crank rebuilt, cylinder re bored and I'm fitting a new piston. I've just reassembled the top end and found that when i turn the engine over it's getting stuck fast at tdc (or thereabouts). I've taken the head off and removed the pushrods. Then put the head back on (minus pushrods) - still fouling! removed the head and (at the point i met resistance) and piston is approximately 1mm above the top of the barrel. If i continue to turn the engine over (from when i met resistance) and with the head removed it travels another 2mm approx? I's a flat top piston and oval head. Any ideas why this might be happening? QM
  3. Hi Samwisemcg and thanks for your helpful reply, I decided to buy exactly what it said in the manual and picked up a ltr of SAE 20 & SAE 30 off the villiers stand at Stafford yesterday. I've yet to buy engine oil but will use silkolene as i've used it before and rate OPIE oils as their prices are competitive.
  4. Hi guys, i'm about to fit my clutch plates - using an eight plate clutch upgrade. My experience with more modern bikes is to soak the plates before fitting. As my engine is likely to sit on the bench for some time as i'm keen to do this. Consequently, i'm seeking advice on what oil to use? I'm not too fussed about price i'd rather run with something that doesn't encourage slippage. QM
  5. Ahh, brilliant naichuff that makes sense now, thank you QM
  6. Hi Naichuff and thanks for your reply. I'm a bit confused about the sleeve. Surely that should come as part of the kit or at least be in the instructions as something that needs to be machined as was the pillars? Qm
  7. Hi guys, i'm fast reaching a point where i need to decided what to do next on my rebuild. I've got the primary chain on but not the clutch plates etc. I haven't fitted the cylinder yet so opted to fit the pvl ignition i brought from sammy miller products a year ago. I've brought a case that serco have machined so my pillars are in place. ive had a look in the bag that the pvl kit was sent in and i have a back plate, large washer, plug cap, a rotor and coil type thing (?). I also have various instructions that refer to a 'large diameter alloy spacer' and '1/4'' bore spacers'? I have none of the latter items but on reference to SM Products parts list they are shown in the illustration of the kit i purchased! Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!! Now I'm hoping that someone might be able to shed some light on what might be a problem. However, judging that I'm missing some parts (see above) it may be that their addition may resolve matters?! What i want to know is - should i still be using the original distance piece that was fitted beneath the original lucas stator? I didn't have a spacer fitted to my bike when i dismantled it. The bit that most confuses me is that the stator that i have my kit has a much larger diameter hole through its centre than the width of the crankshaft? It slops about! The shouldered nut that secures is also of smaller diameter? Can any one explain this to me please and if i should be using the original distance piece. QM
  8. Thanks Robido, that kits for a threaded hole but i'll look at fashioning something similar myself Regards QM
  9. Hi guys, i'm new to this site and to rebuilding/ building engines, Consequently this may be the first of many posts! My cub is a '61 with an oval head. I've done quite a bit of work to it with more enthusiasm than skill! I've started to put it back together and will be fitting a pvl ignition - purchased from Sammy Miller. I also purchases a case that had pillars machined by serco (?). My query relates to the distributor and i perhaps should have posted this query before i fitted the inner case! I'm assuming that the distributor on my model (sat on top of engine) is now redundant? Thinking this is didn't fit the clamp between the inner cases? What advise can anyone give in terms of the hole left where the distributor would have been located. I understand that this would have been threaded on later models? QM
  10. Hi guys and thanks for all your advice/ tips, its greatly appreciated QM
  11. Hi guys, i'm completely new to trial riding but thought i'd give it a bit of a try after buying a tiger cub in (many) assorted bits. I've no trials experience but would like to build an 'all round bike' that i can ride round the garden, green lanes and very occasionally go to the shops on. My budget is limited. I'm starting with the engine (currently dismantled and i've got two of most things!) and have got a couple of questions that i was hoping i might get advice on: 1) I've got two sets of gears one has got what looks like a standard 17 tooth engine sprocket (rear drive) on it with a very (very) hooked and missing teeth. The other set of gears look much cleaner and have a 13 tooth engine sprocket on. What i want to do is put a thicker 420 rear drive chain on (ultimately) but judging by the thickness of the present 13 tooth sprocket the 420 chain will probably slop about. Consequently, i see that i can purchase a 420 sprocket but what of the size? Should i go for a 13? If so what size rear sprocket would best suit my needs (see above re garden, green lane and shop)? 2) I've got two gear quadrants and one has been reversed so it's a 'one up'. Both look in the same condition but which one would be best in terms of functionality. I've never had to use a right side change so it'll all be new to me! Thanks in advance guys. QM
×
  • Create New...