ksithumper

Correct, Zinc yellow.

yes, watch this space...

Scotty, I will hopefully be be there, but probably not riding due an op the week before. The course is tricky , very little flat out stuff so your rattly ol' PE will probably survive if you nurse it a bit. Very laid back bunch, you'll enjoy it.

I found it bled ok if I backed the rod right off so the cylinder used a lot of travel. Now I have a firm lever but the brake is still average at best, even new pads. Well named - bleedin' Beta brakes!

This is what I was advised to do with my rev 3. I now use this method everytime I ride and have not had any trouble since So its about

Everyone who has a Gripper is looking for an airbox and a kickstart These ones look a bit rough - not up to Daves normal standard? Anyone seen one in the fibreglass so to speak?

Good Q woody, I've been trying to find those answers for a while! The Gripper and MAR crank part no's are different, but no-one has yet told me what the differences are. Gripper cranks are like rocking horse droppings, guess how I know.... I've finally got all the bits I need for my bottom end rebuild, will worry about a piston later. I'm told a MAR piston can be adapted? Chassis is already done, and she's a beauty!

Mike Worthington-Williams has a column in Old Bike Mart, and he also runs a motorcycle dating service - he seems to have quite a bit of sway with the DVLA where info is scarce. His email is worthycomments@btconnect.com

I have 3 organisers interested so far, 2 up North, one down south. It might actually happen! Watch this space.

Yep, the Midland Classic events are great. Although the course is not particularly long it has some tricky nadgery bits that keep speeds down and give everyone a chance. Anything with 2 shocks is eligible - trail, MX, trials or enduro - if you've never seen a BSA bantam trials bike race an XT500, this is the place! Midland also do a couple of Hillclimbs which are a right laugh. The main problem with modern H+H or Enduros is the deep ruts that modern bikes dig- old bikes get hung up -but if you know the terrain isn't too soft, enter the Sportsman class and you'll find everyone very supportive. The Trail Bike rallies (Cambrian, Hafren etc) are very good fun if the organisers will let you in - often closed to 2-stroke enduro bikes, but phone 'em up and explain and they may let you in. I did the Cambrian a few years ago with James Barnicoat from Trail Bike Magazine on a '75 400KTM and a '75 250 Montesa. We had a right laugh, everyone wanted to chat to us, and despite stopping for photos in some of the stages we didn't come last by a long way. James said he enjoyed it more than any event before or since, so much that he later voted the Monty his Bike of the Year! There's a certain satisfaction in chasing down and passing 450 KTM's on the fire roads on something 30 years old...I think the crap brakes might have helped! You've fired my enthusiasm now and I'm going to call a few people to see if we can get a decent event up and running later this year. It will need about 40 riders - what do people think? How long? 2 x 1 hour?

Same wire size, longer spring = a softer spring. Adding preload doesn't change the spring rate, it only adds a pre-load, so you need a bigger force to move it initially. Thereafter the spring rate is the same. Too much therefore and you get a harsh initial ride followed by soggy suspension, or more or less exactly the opposite of what you want! If you need a stiffer spring, SHORTEN it (heat and flatten the end coil, then grind it square after) and then add a solid spacer to make up the missing length. Much cheaper than buying new springs. Just be sure they don't coil bind if you take a lot off.(Measure the gap between coils x no. of coils in the shorter spring, and make sure it is more than the fork travel). HTH Sherpa, that makes them softer, not harder, however stiff your valve spring!

I've drained the oil, which appeared to be ATF, not to dirty, and replaced it with PJI clutch tuner. The clutch is much less snatchy/ grabby. It got 50% better immediately, and 80% better after a days practice. I can now slip the clutch in turns, without bunny hopping along. My conclusion is that ATF is insuficiently lubricating, and as the 'real' oil has soaked into the plates it has steadily improved the clutch. I plan one more ride, then another change to see if that sorts it. At present it's ok and rideable, but not yet buttery smooth.

Can anyone confirm the colour of the yellow gripper as RAL 1018 (zinc yellow). Yes, RAL 1018 is correct. If it ain't, it's so close I can't tell. Has anyone found a source of kickstarts yet?

Hi, just bought a Beta Techno '98 and had my first play on it before I enter any trials - the last trial I rode was 28 years ago! All seems fine but the clutch is very snatchy - on/off like a light switch, with no progression to the engagement. Is this normal? Will a normal service (dismantle/clean up/new oil) sort it, or are there some special tricks I should know? Cheers

I'm desperate for a crankshaft, ok if it needs a rebuild. Can anyone help? I'm told 350 MAR cranks are different - can anyone confirm/deny/tell me if it can stil be used? Cheers