ssiegmund

Depending on your weight, short of changing to a firmer front spring, the fork air chamber (established by oil height in the tube) can be altered to increase bottoming resistance. A smaller air chamber delivers more resistance.

What was the application in your experience and how were the surfaces prepared?

I was going to put the Montesa up for sale because I recently bought a '06 Beta Rev3 250. When getting the Monte ready for sale I discovered a small oil pool on the bike stand, I pulled the skid plate only to find a small hairline crack coming off the top of the 90* corner cast into the case. When I first bought this bike I installed a new chain, spockets, exhaust gaskets, repacked the silencer, new Dunlops, and a new Montesa rubber case cushion, which required straightening of the heavy aftermarket skid plate for clearance. Apparently there was still enought pressure on the case to cause a vibration induced stress crack in the engine case, possibly due to a casting flaw since the bike has never landed hard enough on the skid plate to make me even think there was the slightest chance of case damage. As I see it there are three repair options: 1) New engine case 2) Weld the existing case 3) JB Weld the existing - provided proper preparation and installation techniques are used. I've heard second hand that the JB Weld does a surprisingly good job but I have no first-hand experience. Does anyone have first-hand experience with JB Weld repairs of this nature?

Tone, Maybe.............scroll down the page: http://www.racespec.co.uk/rs_shop_final/en-gb/dept_413.html

I've experienced good results with FMF packing:

1.25 to 2.5 is an acceptable range for the air screw. 1.25 is rich in my opinion. My '06 Rev3 250 is running 27.5 pilot, 145 main, needle 2nd from the top, air screw 2.0, at 440' above sea level N44 02.834 W123 01.170. This works well for 1st and 2nd gear riding.

For the ISDE events US riders will ship there bikes and gear over via sea containers. There is also a bike rental program offered by the major manufactuers. As far as expenses they are on their own. Many of them create their own fund rasiers, ride events, negotiate sponsorships, and t-shirt sales are propular. I sold a 100+ t-shirts for a friend who rode on the US trophy team in Slovakia. Bottom line, if you're not factory sponsored you're responsible for air travel, insurance, lodging, food, spare parts, tires, riding gear, fuel, lubricants, etc.

Right with you on all points. The motor isn't close to lean, I like to think 5% rich for safety and longevity when tuning. I tested +/- 1/4 & 1/2 turn air screw positions from what the motor said was good at a warm idle, with each adjustment I ran a loop over my logs and boulders, lugged it up a 2-1 slope in second gear into a little wheelie/float turn, decel down the hill and back on the throttle was crisp with no lag. Last night 2 turns out provided good torque, no hollow feel, or flighty idle, etc. Considing air density and temp last night 2 turns leave me enough +/- range to cover most air scenarios year round. Regarding Loctite............... it's our inexpensive, silent, and trust-worthy angle. Thanks again for sound advice, it's appreciated. Sieg

Just went for a ride with the needle in the second groove from the top, 27.5 pilot 145 main, air screw 2 turns out. Definite improvement, crisper, good power through the range. Boyesen 6125 reeds ordered today should have them Friday. Think I'll have a splash of scotch and toast another jetting victory! Thanks again Betarev3.

Thanks Betarev3! I installed a reed spacer on my KTM 200, noticable difference in low-end torque. I'll give it a go with and without on the Beta and see what my seat dyno tells me. No doubt it would make R&R of the carb simple. Have you experimented with after market reeds? Has anyone ran an iCat, now iKat ignition amplifier on their trials bike? I had one given to me from an Australian distributor and installed it on the KTM, definately a noticable improvement in starting, and at very low rpm under load when searching for traction the motor was smoother and more resistant to stalling. Doesn't appear they've marketed to the trials community, which may be the best application for their product. Betachap I hope you're taking notes! Thankfully the indirect hijack is delivering some very useful information.

Thank you very much! Exactly the air screw setting I was hoping for, gives me some adjustment range for riding the mountains. Soon as the kids are in bed the top is off the carb! Done! 20 minutes, 5 minutes on just about anything else, that carb is a bugger to get in and out of the boots. Rear out first, front in first, unscrew and remove the rear hose clamp before pulling the carb. Sorry for the semi thread jack betachap.

Glad to hear this. I just pulled the carb on my new to me '06 250 last night: Pilot 27.5, Main 145, Needle middle position, air screw out 2.5 turns. I almost dropped the needle one position since it appears slightly rich and ideally I would like to have the air screw in the 1.5 - 2.0 range. I ride at 440' ASL, 55-65* F, running 100 octane (RON), Castrol TTS at 80:1, smokes a little, but not bad. Sounds like dropping the needle one clip will clean it up nicely. Where's your air screw at Betarev3?

For clarification that is a stock photo from Sudco's website, that is how the Keihin's are shipped. MERRY CHRISTMAS Everyone

What about this method vs. the loop and "T"