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mrtmartinp

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  1. Hi 70'sRider - Hope the attached will help on the rebuild, pretty sure it does specify the max big end float - Thanks Paul Fantic 200 FM350 Rebuild Man.pdf
  2. mrtmartinp

    Fantic 200.

    Hi Andy, I have an original dealer parts list if you needs the refs for the shims, let me know and I can scan them. Attached may help for now. Probably used in other Fantic engines e.g. Parts specific to the 200 (156 rear kick) start with 350. Probably find the shims are common to the 125 (FM250 250.) Not sure if Bill Pye at Frankfield Garage is still trading if any help. Fantic 125-200.pdf
  3. Hi, try Kevin Breedon Racing, he seems to have some hard to find stuff, looks like he has some Montesa 250 pistons. https://www.kevinbreedonracing.co.uk/Products/Pistons/
  4. mrtmartinp

    Fantic 200 156

    Hi John I have an original dealer parts catalogue with exploded drawings for the 200 rear kick FM350. But for the engine only the attached should help. Note the 125 (FM250) is pretty similar, main differences ignition, barrel, & piston. You will see on your bike some parts with numbers on them start with 250. meaning it's the same part as used on the 125, have a look on the back of the main exhaust for example. Have two FM350's and rebuilt both motors in the last few years. Let me know if you get stuck Paul Fantic 125-200.pdf Fantic_Trial_125_TX250.pdf
  5. Hi I've rebuilt 2 x 247'sand have the Clymer manual, it's OK, but quite general. If you check the link below there is a parts manual which is quite useful. https://www.carlsalter.com/classic-bike-service-manuals.asp Things to look out for is damage on the crankcase cause by the kickstart smashing into the thin wall of the case. The primary drive gear can be a real pig to remove, I think somewhere on TC there is a picture of a puller someone made that looks good. Check the fine thread in the exhaust port, these often get chewed up. One of mine had cracked a gusset plate round the headstock. Generally though fairly straight forward to rebuild, but some parts can be hard to find, especially if you want to go original.
  6. Hi, not a cub expert, but found this,which looks like yours. LFH seems to stand for L H Harris. Maybe worth speaking to that company? Also they sells a pair of springs/balls, but not clear if this is for the LFH pump. http://www.meridenoffroad.co.uk/product/e6486-e5913-tiger-cub-oil-pump-conversion/ http://www.meridenoffroad.co.uk/product/triumph-tiger-cub-e4404-oil-pump-spring-ball-set/ Hope this helps - Paul
  7. Might be being dumb here, but a rich mixture would produce a sooty black plus. OP says 'black with oil not brown and dry'. That suggests to me it's an issue oil burning. Might also be running rich as well, but issue sounds like the issue is burning oil. I would be thinking about crank seals, especially if the bike is known and has either been standing or it's been slowly getting worse. Maybe filter is over oiled. If new to you could be an issue with the crankcase gasket not sealing right and it's pulling oil through the gearbox. I've had this and the oil level didn't really drop because the gearbox was being refilled with petrol. Does the oil smell of petrol? this could be a clue. Then the daft stuff like forgot and put a second shot of oil in the petrol, though at modern ratio's would be surprised if this would oil the plug that badly. Does the exhaust smoke when you give it some beans? blue smoke usually means burning oil.
  8. mrtmartinp

    Piston Kit

    Probably best to buy in UK, for a few quid it's worth it to have some come back. Might be worth contacting this Co in Italy, just to see what they have ... https://www.gandini-industria.it/catalog/old-timer-pistons/engines-and-air-compressors-pistons/bultaco/P7212B
  9. Cos I've got too much time on my hands tonight, found this, might save a few quid. Have never used the company and not 100% sure it's the right one, but maybe worth a look. Using XE.com this rod kits is £164 plus del. Looks like some kind of dealer clearance of Sherco parts? https://shercodiscountparts.com/collections/sherco-trials/products/conrod-kit-2-5-2-9-r021
  10. Seems the sensible route to buy the rod kit despite the cost. Many moons ago I had a Suzuki AC50, rare thing even then. That needed a big end change, and because the bearing was obsolete the company who rebuilt the crank bored out the rod to accept a slightly larger OD bearing. I would only consider this if parts were not available, and the value/risk was low. TBH never felt 100% happy about it, but had no choice. So vote for me is the rod kit route
  11. If your sure it's dead and you have time on your hands, you can dissolve some potting compounds. Worth trying if you have nothing to loose. Dissolving depends on the type etc, Try google search on 'dissolve potting compound'. But then unless you know what you're looking for or can test the components you could be on a road to nowhere. Worth a try if all else fails, but as mentioned above swapping it out is probably going to be the way forward. https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/epoxy-resin-removal-from-ecu/
  12. Sad to hear your news. My uncle, Ken Martin also worked for Anelays, some years later I had an ex-SSTD 199a from my cousin. So the story went my uncle made call to Spain to get a new 199a for my cousin. Sold it many years ago, and been looking for it for the last 15 years. So if anyone has 199*6452, or the remnants of it please let me know. Not sure if you've seen this Sherpa N write up. http://www.bsaotter.com/the_dan_shorey_bultaco_sherpa_n_trials..html
  13. Hi szymon Just sent them. Still think that's a wide gap, so might be worth getting a second opinion. Paul
  14. Hi This is an extract from an old copied manual I got a few years ago. looking at the bottom of page 38 though, that's a heck of a gap. Hope it helps though. Paul
  15. Hi Turbo The 1st attachment is from a 200 rebuild manual I got some years ago. I've used this to set both the Minerelli engines on my 200's. The earlier bikes like the 200 (FM350) and 125 (FM250) had a Dansi ignition set up. Pretty sure this had changed by the time the 300 arrived, but can't be 100% certain on that one. The 2nd attachment is from the original parts book for the 200.It shows the ref for the module, hope this helps. Paul
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