mcman56

Were the original sprockets aluminium? This one is magnetic and all references I see to the brand on line are all old so it could be a 25 year old aftermarket sprocket. Is the OEM offset listed somewhere? Everything looks straight as far as I can tell with a tape measure, eyeball and the bike together. One odd thing is that the paint is rubbed off the swingarm where it touches but I would expect to see it more torn up from the chain. If I mis align the snail axle adjusters by one step, I get about 2 mm clearance.

I have a new to me TY250A twin shock and the rear sprocket lightly rubs on the swing arm. Do they normally have very little clearance? The bike appears unmolested and with low hours. The axle hardware/ spacers match what is shown on the part list. The rear sprocket is steel, looks original and is marked PORTCO YA-311-53. The sprocket runs reasonable true and is not bent. My attempt to check sprocket alignment with a home improvement type laser suggests that the rear sprocket is about 1.5 mm farther out than the front sprocket. Is there something else to consider before installing a 1.5 mm spacer or taking 1.5 mm off of the mounting surface of the sprocket? Purely by eye, the sprocket looks 1/4" out from the front sprocket.

There is a vent that gets a tube to air plus another connection that needs to be capped off. See:

I was talking about relative size of foot to calf. My latest pair are size 44 so any measurements I take would probably mean little to someone named bigboi. IIRC, Forma and Gaerne fit exactly the same except that Forma are an inch or two taller, at least in my size. The only other brand I tried was Alpinestars but they were quite narrow so got returned. I have had the opposite experience from Lemur with Gaerne and Forma. For me Gaernes are quite soft and require little break in. In not a very long time, they start to feel as soft as bedroom slippers. The soles are also softer which may give you better traction on the pegs. I find the Forma to be stiffer and require more break-in. The stiffer feel, even after break-in, makes them feel more protective. The harder soles also last longer. I'm on my second pair of Forma Boulder and have a pair of their adventure boots. All feel the same. These are the waterproof ones and I don't know if that makes a difference. I have had a number of pairs of Gaerne but don't remember what model.

Forma Boulder have pretty good calf room. With calves on the large size and the big Leatt knee guards, Forma boots close but just barely. https://www.motosport.com/product/?code=SS-M-G-P-NA-PLA-DIRT&key=Leatt-2022-Dual-Axis-Knee-Guards&cc=us&variant[LBRI08C]=LBRI08C-X003-Y003&cc=us&variant[LBRI08C]=LBRI08C-X003-Y003&utm_source=google&utm_medium=pla&&mrkgadid=3327779862&mrkgcl=500&rkg_id=0&adpos=&creative=331604523753&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&product_id=LBRI08C-X003-Y003&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwh4-wBhB3EiwAeJsppKMXOCXmGLvAbXSsWUN2Jn1gP9nM-DN0I6IWqL8Pqgp-QutvS5nC7BoCOWUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

This claims 155 lbs dry. IIRC, the beta 4t is about 7 1/2 pounds heavier than the 2t models. The Honda is then another 7 1/2 pounds heavier than the Beta 4t. https://www.outdoordepot.biz/Motorcycles-Beta-EVO-300-4-Stroke-2024-South-Fork-CO-cfe3b8b3-3612-42bc-b1b1-b081007ec67e This says 170 lbs wet for the Honda. https://www.dirtrider.com/dirt-bikes/montesa-honda-trials-motorcycles-2023/

I stand corrected. The number is 60 hours and came from an ISDT preparation manual put out by Lampkins. I was just following that recommendation but the clearance never seems to change. There was no failure.

I have a 16 Beta 300 4t and have been checking valves every 50 hours but they never seem to change so plan to stop. It is a lot of work to get to the valves. Everything comes off the motor except the swing arm bolt and the engine then rotates down around the bolt to get valve access. It is also quite a bit more work to get to the carb compared to the 2t. It is the quietest bike and easy to kick.

Not the same bike but I once had an early 90s Fantic 80 for one of my kids. It had full size wheels and was a full size bike or almost full size. It probably weighed as much as a current trials bike or a bit more. Power was adequate for a 155 lb person to pop over moderate size logs. It worked pretty well on the flat but any kind of a hill was an issue. Even a very moderate size hill required max rpm in first gear just to get up. Modern 80s probably have more power but when you test ride be sure to try some kind of hill.

This is what the RT cover looks like, There is not quite enough room for the kick starter on the shaft.

Once again, the clutch started to drag and hot stick. I then replaced the steel plates with new Yamaha plates, it worked well for a short while but started doing it again. These plates do have the dimples. I just sanded the steel plates with 180 grit and it seems OK for now. Could it be that you need to replace the friction and steel plates at the same time? This seems strange. I also get cold stick but don't care about that.

The rear brake is the one thing I dislike about Evos. The Beta 4t has the brake on the other side yet has the same weakness. In addition, I found Rev3 rear brakes to work fine. I sometimes wonder if the lack of feel on Evo rear brakes is actually the brake lever (flex?). Or maybe it is the combination of the lever and my small feet (size 9). The picture is more vulnerable but a workable solution. I think the Jitsie lever helps a little also. Early Rev3s had a 2 piston caliper in the back. I did this after replacing all brake components including the disc and trying all available pads.

Where do you find the flash point? Is there a comparison chart somewhere?

That is a very interesting way to try laid down shocks. How much did it raise the seat height? It reminds me a bit of this.

I would like to see.