duncanstokes256

Yep I use an ali polish called Belgom - it leaves a wax residue to help protect. I initially used my drill and a polish kit (different wheels and compound) then keep it fresh with Belgom. It's not the cheapest but on the other hand you don't need to use a huge amount. Thanks for the tips re the chain tensioner - I'll check that out this weekend. Happy buffing D

All and any advice accepted/welcome. I have the original front guard stays somewhere - will need a repaint. Yes agree rear chain needs tightening - the tensioner seems to be sticking so your simple 'thumb' guide is very useful. Best Dunc

Good question, errr kudos from his peers. D

Weh heh what a bunch of perfectionists - some of your attention to detail is fantastic - must remember to upload lower resolution images in future!!! You are all correct with observations. Rear shock was assembled upside down, which was the principle question!! I've not re-built it as 'original' - just to make it clean, ride able (important), and not too leave somewhere looking pretty but gathering dust. Yes tank is Ali so thanks for the tip re different seat covers. No speedo, maybe at some time in the future, no need for one at the moment. Next step is to take it over to some local woods for a 'test run'!! Thanks all. Dunc

When I recovered the seat it fitted perfectly, however the tank causes the front of the seat to 'buckle up' hence the slight distortion!! Forks and tank are fine. Answer tomorrow, it will shock you. Duncan

Finally finished the re-build, engine runs really smoothly and now sounds like a Bultaco - vast improvement. Tank is ali and holding petrol, helicoil seems to have doen the trick. Anyone spot the obvious mistake? Thanks for your help and advice. Dunc

Some great info, thanks all. I've certainly learnt something new - carbon steel inserts look like a great future solution. In the end I took the tank and tap to a local indy bike shop, asked for some advice and he fitted a heli-coil while I waited, all for a tenner - how about that!! Now need to re-flush the tank for any last fragments of swarf. Of course the petrol tap tightens up exactly 180degress from where it should so will need a thin washer to sort. I think that's about it - will post some pics of the finished bike soon. D

Thanks WelshBeta - can you provide more info on 'steel inserts' - that's a new term for me, or provide a link? Best and thanks D

Typical - last hurdle, putting the ali tank back on and the petrol tap threads on the tank seem shot almost to the point where the tap pushes into the tank missing the threads altogether. Last few threads do bite but not enough to hold the tap to the tank. Any advice anyone? Heli coils any good, I've never used them so open to advice (pros and cons). Tank is very dry inside and paint in v good condition so don't really want to weld up the hole and re-drill. Help, any thoughts? Dunc

Many thanks 'pschrauber' some very nice photos of your re-build, plus some good re-build ref shots. My question related more to fitting the electronic ignition HT/Coil packs etc - best place, plus where to tuck away the bundles of wiring? I've made a bracket which seems to be neat and tidy and tucked away from view once the tank is inplace. Best D

1978 Butaco Sherpa T 350. Nearing completion of the re-build and just fitted electronic ignition, cut out switch - interested to see where you've all fixed the coil/HT packs and routed all the wires? Cheers D

All done, used the Dremel to weaken the ball race, then a couple of well placed light blows to the base and bingo - and managed to save the original lower cup - result. Next job to fit the new lower bronze bushes into the swing arm - think I'll use a local garage's press for that. Many thanks all - will more than likely have further questions as the re-build continues. Best Dunc

Thanks all. I don't have any welding kit so it's going to be a very steady hand and a dremel/carbide tip!! Will advise progress. Many thanks again. D

Hello all, can you help? I'm replacing my steering bearings on my 78 Sherpa, removed the old bearings from frame as I'm fitting the new tapered bearings type. Then realised I have to remove the old lower bearing race holder from the lower front fork brace (see attached pic) Any advice as to how to remove? Assume you need a press to push out the steering shaft from the brace to get the bottom race holder off? Ideally I want to retain the old original dust plate if possible. Thanks in advance and hope the above is a good enough description of the problem? Dunc

Sammy Miller can take it on, 4 - 6 weeks turnaround. Dave R does not provide any mechanical services but gave me the details of someone who can (hopefully). So sorted, many thanks D