cvgmmartin

I believe his number is 07523 913716

Perhaps your crankcase is flooded with fuel and until your clear it of fuel, the plug will keep becoming saturated with fuel. Does the carb and inlet manifold slope down so that any overflow from the carb goes into the crankcase?

Mokwepa has rather over simplified the issue with his initial statements. A trials bikes will generally go faster as you gear up (i.e. smaller rear wheel sprocket) since the engine produces "excess" power for the speeds they run at. Do that on a road bike and it will probably drop the top speed since the engine torque won't be sufficient to overcome the wind resistance. Were the so called experts he was talking to referring to trials bikes or road bikes? Road bikes were always geared slightly high to give good a good cruising speed without over revving the engine, and most road bikes used to gain a couple of mph by dropping the gearing. Trials bikes are a completely different animal and as most of you pointed out changing the gearing is all about making the bike rideable rather that looking for either more acceleration or more top speed.

Some MX bikes use between 32:1 and 40:1, but if you are not running it that hard then perhaps something closer to 50:1 would provide better protection for enduro riding. Maybe someone else can give a more expert opinion. The oil helps dissipate heat so the harder you run the more oil you should mix. You could check your enduro manual (if it is a 2 stroke) and see what it recommends, that should give you a guide.

If you choose to use your trials bike for an enduro again you may want to re think your fuel/oil ratio for such events.

Borus is probably correct about it being tennis elbow, as he says don't ride through the pain. It probably hurts more when you grip hard, if so then don't practice hops or anything that can't be done with a loose grip. Mine has taken about 2 months to ease up but is not completely cured. you have to take it easy for a while or it can take a long time to get better.

Hi, I live in Toronto (west end). For a beginner I suggest you join the CVMG (Canadian vintage motorcycle group). You can find them on the web. We have about 8 trials a year mainly in areas west of Toronto and Hamilton so within an hour and a half for you. Although it is called vintage, many riders come with modern bikes and we welcome all, some children also ride. Sections are marked for different skill levels so you won't find them too difficult. There will be a trial close to Orangeville Oct 20th (I think). You should come along and see what it is like. The CMA also put on trials, but for the beginner I suggest the CVMG would be a better start.

The angle of the photo distorts the size of the tank and seat making them look much bigger than they really are in relation to the rest of the bike. What you can see of the subframe and the frame tube under the seat look similar to the picture in Don Morley's book, the exhaust pipe (though not the silencer) is also similar. As others have mentioned, it needs better pictures and more than just one to accurately determine what it is.

I hope a few hundred people used the complaint link posted above, then the BBC may get the message and get it right next time. I did.

I assume you swapped the reeds when you switched carbs, so now it would seem the only difference could be either the exhaust system or the barrel and piston porting, although you would have thought a plugged exhaust would affect the high end more than the low end which doesn't seem to be the case. Try switching the exhaust first since it easier, after that it looks like you are left comparing the porting. Can anyone comment whether a weak ignition system could cause poor low speed power yet not appear to affect high speeds?

I think it is a Rickman hub

I have done the bend trick described by Copemech above on a Bultaco rear wheel but still had grind a little off the threads to shorten it so that bending didn't leave a permanent kink in the spoke, but as long as there is enough thread left then that shouldn't be a problem. regards Martin

Contact Rex Caunt Racing, they sell PVL systems and are very helpful. .

Had a similar problem with my engine, couldn't get the nut off even with the shop's biggest impact gun. Managed to remove it by heating the nut with a propane torch and then using the impact gun, it eventually came off.

I have "buffed down springs for both front forks and rear shocks and yes it works as far as softening the springs. In fact if you were clever and had a good reason to do it, you could grind down different amounts over the length and create a spring that has a non-linear load-extension curve, but try and find someone who can tell you what that curve should be! That is why it is usually best to just go out and buy what others have proven to work. Also grinding down external springs produces a pretty ugly appearance.