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Looks like the sensor/thermostatis ok , just have to wait for the temp to build up. Another question , it appears the clutch basket fingers are grooved causing the grabbing clutch , do you know if its possible to remove the basket with only the clutch cover off or do you have to remove the clutch casing as well ? From what I can ses i think you should be able to wriggle the basket out but otherwise its a longer job to take off the header and bashplate to get to all the bolts. TIA

So assuming there is a spark at the pickup would that then travel to the coil primary ?

I use an oscilloscope to test the AC outputs, nothing beats that, your pickup coil should ohm meter test easy and be adjusted (if possible) for the closest proximity to the magnets to optimize performance, pickup is simply a field coil that initiates the spark and provides timing for the fuel injection.

I have tested the stator 0.6 ohms between 1-2, 1-3 and 2-3. No continuity to ground so that should be ok.the pick up is 101 ohms.

Hi Alan I've only had the bike a few days so haven't actually done anything to it, when I collected it it kicked over fine.. IN neutral it's solid and no movement..with the clutch IN there is kickstart stroke but no engagement?

imho an upgrade would be to keep the small battery and add a capacitor and if it is only a cold start problem install a jumper port where you can easy plug in a small power supply.

The Gearbox needs to be in neutral or have the clutch lever pulled in to start the bike , have you assembled the kick start shaft/gear and the parts correctly is it inserted fully into the engine casing before replacing the clutch casing .Check your work again following the service manual. Regards Alan.

Have tried the obvious (rocking etc) but thanks Will try a tow start later and see if it re syncs with the engine running.. if not it's off with the clutch case I guess 🤦‍♂️

Hi and thanks for your reply, I didn’t upgrade to the capacitor- it was apparently a dealer/manufacturer ‘upgrade’ made worse by the fact no local dealers or Vertigo UK have a wiring diagram for a 2016/2017 bike ! I will start with the stator etc tonight. Thanks again

Not specific to ossa, but the kickstart gears can get out of alignment. Sometimes just putting it in gear and rocking it back of forward is sufficient let them mesh.

If there is no spark start by checking the stator windings and ignition pickup outputs, your spark plug does not use the capacitor to make a spark. ... interesting that one would consider a capacitor to be an upgrade to a battery 🤔 if I was building fuel injected motorcycles I would think a capacitor in place of a battery would be a cost and possibly weight saving measure, not a performance improvement. Both are power storage devices but a battery maintains an electric charge for a considerable time where a capacitor retains a charge until it is discharged and then it becomes basically flat or dead. The cap won't charge until you start cranking the kickstarter, a battery in theory would be ready to provide full power right from the first kick.

Hi again.. I've not started the bike for a couple of days and now the kickstart is not moving.. I can literally stand on it And no movement..if I pull the clutch it goes full stroke.. also if I remove the plug so no compression And put it in second I can crank the bike forward on the kickstart.. any ideas please on what is going on? Stuck or damaged gearing

What happens if you give the throttle a big blip when it starts revving up? Could also be starved of fuel if there is not an air leak as Lemur has suggested.

Thank you for your reply. There is 499 K ohms resistance (increasing) and 504mv dc through the red and back wires (which would have originally been connected to the 9v battery)

A capacitor is a 2-terminal device. The third terminal is likely connected to one of the others to simplify the bike's wiring. For reference, the OSSA's capacitor is approximately 22000 uF. Most multimeters will not read a capacitor value that large. 10000 uF is a typical limit. If you connect the capacitor to your multimeter on the ohms setting, the resistance will appear small initially, and gradually increase as the capacitor charges. You can then short the capacitor leads together (discharging it) and repeat the observation. The multimeter will charge the capacitor to something on the order of 350 millivolts. Once the capacitor is charged, switch the multimeter to read volts (or better yet, millivolts). The capacitor should hold that charge for a long time (perhaps hours) but you will be able it see it slowly discharge due to the drain imposed by the multimeter. Passing these tests does not guarantee a good capacitor, but it's better than nothing and about all the DIY mechanic can do. P.S. An electrolytic capacitor is a polarized device. Operating one at its rated voltage backwards will destroy it. But when testing will a multimeter, polarity is not a concern. This is because the voltage is so low, no damage will occur.

Generally the capacitor is not a tremendously expensive or special part and worth stocking a spare to test or replace, the primary reason it is on there is because your bike is fuel injected and Fi needs DC power in the form of a battery and or capacitor to supply sufficient electrical power to the DC fuel pump. Symptom of a failed cap on your ride would be lack of fuel pressure not lack of spark.

Hi can anyone advise how to test this capacitor from a 2016 Vertigo (it’s got the batteryless upgrade). I can use a multimeter and read micro farads etc, I just don’t know the valves I should see (there are 3 pins, nothing written on the unit). Also would this being faulty cause failure to start (definitely no spark) ?

Sadly yes, nothing that a new engine didn't fix.

Uncontrolled acceleration can be caused from intake vacuum leak. ... that is where you have a very small air leak type hole somewhere between the carb and cranckcase.

Hi just picked up a 1978 tr77 starts lovely and idles nicely BUT after a few minutes it will pick up the revs to almost maximum without any input without sounding dense where do i start?

Hi team, Had an issue with my TY, engine ran away due to leaking crank seals, totally leaned the poor thing out and had to stall it to stop the engine. Replaced seals and upon re start very noisey, struggling to idle and noticing movement in the head and barrel so presumIng I have stripped the head studs. Has anyone else experienced this? Cheers Rob.

UPDATE: 12 tooth front sprocket, JTF 1906, fits w/modification of the rubber chain guard to allow the sprocket room to spin and add 2 chain links (128 vs 126 stock). This mod transforms this bike for the better. The rear suspension is now alive; springy & lively, the bike "pops" off ledges, drops & other obstacles. The chain no longer tries to wrap around the front sprocket under engine breaking or when bump starting & requires minimal chain tension (pinky finger between the s/arm & tensioner). If this bike is just going to be ridden in small circles in the back yard or a typical small trials area this mod isn't necessary, but if you want to ride the SSDT or any distance ride like I do then this mod is a must as it gives this bike the legs it needs for travelling at speed in 5th & 6th. The only down side is first is now just low enough for me to climb the stupid steep climbs very aggressively. No more stopping to smell the flowers part way up. Two other small mods also transformed this bike. It came w/a quick turn throttle tube which I replaced w/my slow turn from my 125. Big mistake. I was having a hard time grabbing enough throttle for the long climbs & not getting into the meat of the power band resulting in failure. Since the first 4000 rpms of throttle are unusable the quick turn throttle works a treat, no more failure. Another mod was to install the S3 curve pegs which I had kept from my 125. I hated them in short order on the 125 but on the 80, which has to be ridden aggressively, they work decent. Large platform for my big feet & set back. However, the sharp set screws caught me out once already. Hopefully they dull w/time & use. For my next/last major mod I am going to find a mint low hour 2013 - 2017 KTM 85 SX & do an engine swap so I get what should have been in the frame from the start. Hopefully, better shifting & better running for the first 4000 rpms. In for a penny, in for several thousand more!

Yes, let gravity do the work!

I did and I’m sorry I didn’t post the solution sooner. The reason I couldn’t get fluid to flow was that the adjuster screw on the lever needed to be turned out just a little. What happened is that the piston inside wasn’t opening or closing enough to reveal the ports in the cylinder. It was sealed tight by the piston. Adjusting the lever a bit allowed the piston to move farther, into an open port configuration. if you’re having the same issue, turn the adjuster screw either in or out. Hope this helps!

The 250 is a good bike, just make sure you run it hot enough to burn off the excess 2t oil, or the crank case pools it, and they feel poor, performance wise.