All Activity

Obviously, the aluminum tank is fine. The bottom hat that holds the fuel pump, allows the wiring and pressurized fuel to pass through is a mixture of coated steel and some brazed or welded parts. The steel had become rusted and porous so it needed to be replaced or coated and lined. Not the first Honda fuel component I've come across that needed to be lined. Overland Trail mentioned that honda is discontinuing the gasket/packing going forward

On early models they used to put them under the seat/airbox on the left hand side /gear change side but later models it went where yours is now as its better placed. the tube is the thing that will melt between the reservoir and the rear master cylinder and needs a long spring over it for heat /crush protection. if you need a new piece of tubing it is made of EPDM plastic to survive DOT4 brake fluid 6mm/8mm internal diameter. Regards Alan.

Hello cut a bit off the allen key to get in there better and work it slowly then swap it for a normal bolt with two or three washers when you put it back on ...... or use a flexi extension to get on the allen bolt.

I thought it would be M10 but knew there was 2 thread pitch, just wanted to make sure I got the right one

Ok thanks, just the previous owner said he moved it 🤷🏻

Your picture shows that the reservoir is fitted where it should be fitted.

Every brake banjo bolt I've ever seen has been M10. A thread pitch of 1.0mm is more likely for a trials bike, but 1.25mm is possible.

Do you have continuity for the earth side of the ignition system? This relies on a good electrical connection from motor casings to frame and from frame to HT coil.

You aren't measuring the voltage correctly or your alternator has a problem, your alternator outputs AC voltage. Primary coil can also be meter tested for continuity and should be in the realm of only a few ohms.

Now it is shining and lots of new parts. But no sparks at all. Basic wiring as mentioned by Ausierider So Black wire from point to coil. New parts included coil, ignition points, condensor, spark plug and cable. Black wire check short circuit so fine. Turning flywheel gives little V 0,06 What have I done wrong. Must be simple

Bought the bike about 6 weeks ago, the seller said he had moved the rear brake reservoir due to exhaust melting the pipe or something like that. Attached photo shows where he has fitted it, can someone show me where it is supposed it be fitted. Also I need to change the rear master cylinder, the brake light switch/banjo is no longer needed and a bit suspect so want to replace it with a banjo bolt, what size/ thread pitch is it? Cheers Tim

I need to replace the 2 seals between the exhaust header and mid section on my 2024 TXT Pro Racing. Any advice? Remove header or mid box? I looked at removing the header pipe but can't see how i can get the lower hex bolt out of the barrel as the exhaust is in the way. A normal Allen key will go on but will only turn a few mm before it hits the exhaust or sump guard/frame. Any help/tips much appreciated. Thanks.

Assemble the piston on the rod, mark up the piston where it hits then remove the piston and remove enough on those corners to give clearance of at least 1 mm. As for physically removing metal, hold the piston without deforming it and use a file or a grinder or a sanding belt or a sanding disc.

@Seabag Yep that is as far as it will go on .

Mine can't slide all the way. It's stopping about 1 cm short and seems to be blocked by the Allen bolt. — I guess thats normal?

@Seabag The kick pedal slides on the splines and then a allen bolt goes through a tophat washer and is screwed into the hole in the center of the shaft thus holding the pedal on the shaft , its best to use medium thread lock on the bolt or it can sometimes loosen off if it has been overtightened in the past. Check the parts book exploded view drawings to see how things are put together. Best wishes Alan.

I appreciate all the responses, they really helped me.

Is this kickstart shaft the same as V-0231 – KICKSTART SHAFT? I'm having trouble getting the parts to fit together properly. My bike is a 2019 Vertigo Vertical Combat 250cc, and I'm using the original Vertigo kickstart lever. However, I can't seem to get it to fit correctly onto the shaft. I was expecting there to be a groove or slot in the shaft for the cross bolt on the lever to lock into, but it doesn't seem to be there.

I recently was sent a 311 piston and have a 1977 TY250. How should I go about cutting (or filing) the piston skirt so it will clear the crankshaft? I have files.

There is a good webpage with lots of info wich you can follow, to which extens Will it be usefull to your final purpuse i don't know but a good read for sure. About this site – THE HONDA TRIALS HISTORY

@ Seabag https://blog.splatshop.co.uk/tech-suspension-fork-oil-levels/ IPONE oil 3WT for = to FORMULA recommended OJ01 FORK OIL . as stated in the blog.

Short answer: probably Tech. The left side has the wire spring, so a lower fluid level tends to compensate and gives a similar air chamber volume as a higher level without a spring. But ultimately, those numbers are just a starting point. The fluid level affects the bottoming behavior. Different riders may require/prefer different settings. It's easier to add oil (using a syringe) than to remove it. More info here: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/mechanicals/tech-39mm-forks

@Seabag this matches the service manual you have so looks like you have the answer. https://vertigomotors.co.uk/technical/

I'm new here and have just bought a used 2019 Vertigo Combat Vertical 250cc. I'm about to change the oil in both front forks, but I'm a bit unsure about the correct oil level. In the service manual for the bike, it says the oil level should be 130 mm in both forks. However, in the service manual for the forks — which are Tech Suspension — it states that the level should be 130 mm in the left fork and 75 mm in the right. Which one should I trust?