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  2. stu109

    Ossa MAR

    Hi I got my chair on ebay. They come up from time to time so setting up a search can help. Like you, I used an old bike I had at the back of the shed. With hindsight it would have been easier to buy a used outfit, but there is a certain satisfaction in finishing a project. Don't forget you will need heavier rear springs, and I added some additional pre-load on the front end. I had trouble finding the required tube. The issue was buying a small quantity. Plenty of places to buy 10m lengths! I have a 17" Honda moped wheel with a 17mm shaft if you want it. Good luck Stuart
  3. Today
  4. On all the carb'd Ossa's they had a backbone frame and the down tubes were all bolt on from the headstock to the crankcase mounts. Remove the left side down tube and this at the top is the one to weld the sidecar mount onto. Don't use the headstock itself. Theres some old photos, of Ossa sidecars on the web from the Pearce Simon trial, that Ringwood MCC put on, when it was a sidecar round!
  5. Just did part 1 of the clutch mod, cleaning out the glue between the pads using a dremel and a soft grinding wheel. The bike still has a tiny bit of cold stick but it disappears after just a minute or two during the first ride. I have some washers on the way and then after that I'll see if filing the tabs is necessary. I must admit that my dremel wheel wasn't as accurate as the file and microscope/magnifying glass method but it only took me an hour instead of 4 - 8. I'm sure I shortened the life a little bit of the clutch since I have a tiny pile of dust on my workbench now and there were a few times I just nudged the edge of the pads but I'll take it for the improved low idle clutch performance. More to come when the washers get here!
  6. Hi folks, Fancy having a go at sidecar trials and currently own a 1975 Ossa Mar 250. 2 questions if i may, does anyone know of a used chair for sale for sensible money, if not i will have a go at making one as plenty of reference photos around and i can weld (or so i tell myself) but has anyone done it to an Ossa before, can find pictures of a yellow Ossa 350 on the web but the frame looks different, it's the headstock mount that looks tricky to resolve.
  7. http://swvta.com And high plains trials. http://hptrials.weebly.com
  8. The 4.00R-18 rear tire is the most important component of a Trials bike. Try to modify your bike to accept one.
  9. Has anyone done this, any issues with fitting it in terms of chain alignment and rubbing the tyre?
  10. the 2 clubs in Texas, I am half sure are: CTTA (central texas trials Assoc?) and NTTA (north or Northern Texas Trials Assoc) I ride with a friend couple times a year from way down there by you I think (Im in KS). Sorry I don't have links for them Facebook can help I know NTTA is on facebook, and they might be able to help you find CTTA. THe USA club database is located here, they have 3 links for texas clubs. http://www.trialsclubs.us/ Texted friend just now, he said this website (which was listed) http://www.austintrials.com
  11. Some 5 -8 years ago there was a Trials group in Houston. I cannot ant trace of them now. Does anyone know what happened? Dennis
  12. I would reuse that piston and if the ring end gap is still OK, reuse the rings. For the little end bearing, do a visual inspection on the rollers, the pin and inside the conrod hole with a magnifying glass. If it all looks OK, reuse them too. You will find that trials two strokes running modern oils gum up the rings at an alarming rate, especially if there is too much oil in the fuel.
  13. Shiskine


    Is there anywhere supplies a stainless front pipe for a Seeley RS200......?? Thank you..
  14. Looks very Suzuki full floater like in design from what I can see, that front pair of plates would be strange for a upper shock mount with the slotted holes but I think you're right. Definitely needs returning to stock which looks to be a fairly big job
  15. Yes, various 3.50 x 18 trials tyres on eBay. May not work too well in the sections but might solve the problem.
  16. The larger of the 2 measurements is the 1 to use, .02mm of taper is next to nothing which is mainly due to being a watercooled motor. As a comparison I measured a TY175 piston last week that tapered closer to .25mm from the base of the skirt to just under the bottom ring With a good synthetic oil a ratio of 70-80:1 is good, won't clog your exhaust packing & still safe if you do any trail riding between sections You will need to repack the muffler, the packing will be saturated & you'll keep getting oil out the end of the exhaust for quite some time
  17. Thank you I will look into this. I really appreciate your feedback
  18. Yesterday
  19. faussy


    Hard to tell from this photo, but looks close https://www.zonetrial.com/ArticleDetail.aspx?Langue=E&Modele=Spacer+fuel+tank+GasGas+TxT+pro+racing+2013&Id_Article=8074
  20. looking at the specs for the battery I would say that this may be the problem , 7.2A peak/burst is very low for this application with a over current shut down of 24-36A , if it is a cell problem within 1 of the battery's this can also have the same symptoms as your seeing. if you have a volt meter you can confirm this by seeing if there is any voltage on the battery when the fault happens ( measured without disconnecting or turning off the bikes battery ).. basic things to check are is the back wheel nice and free to rotate ( with chain disconnected ), or if there is any grinding noise from the motor when rotated by hand , both these things can increase the current of the system and in turn trip the battery, if you have a current meter you can also check the no-load current of the bike i.e full throttle with back wheel lifted off the ground, I guestimate that the noload current should be no more than around 2.5-4.5A ( maybe someone with the same bike could measure this and post it up on here for future ref. edit: is should have also said if you measure for voltage as above but do still see the 24v but bike still do not work then it could be the controller shutting down due to the low voltage cut off of the controller, which may point to a faulty battery cell.
  21. Looks like Mitas or Duro from what I can find. Are they gonna stick like a proper modern tire? Highly unlikely but then again you probably won’t know the difference.😁
  22. crazybond700


    Anyone know the name or partnumber of the spacer which holds the plastic tanks on newer models? Not the bolt with breather but underneath it.
  23. Might be a bit harder to find, but a 350x18 used to availble
  24. Great Wood is a decent piece of land, ridden there many times in the past. Generally a non expert trial these days so would be perfect for you to get started mate. Having ridden enduro previously you'll be fine. Enter as a novice and see how you get on - can always move up to Clubman with a bit of practice.
  25. Read this whole thread for ideas before you start. Ps. Pull the clutch actuating arm out and lube, after 445 years it needs it. https://advrider.com/f/threads/ty175-staring-down-the-rabbit-hole-need-a-guide.1463250/
  26. Here is the link to the batteries purchased https://bluenova.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/BN13V-8-104Wh.pdf Thanks for your feedback
  27. Thanks again, I appreciate that. Will you be heading down for the race. I have just joined as a member as well.
  28. Entry opens on the 25th.. Link here...... https://www.acu.org.uk/events/November-2020/Wycombe-District-MCC-Ltd/Trials/Great-Wood-Near-Hambledon-ACU59799.aspx
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