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Glad you had fun. Try reaching out on Adv rider. Go to the trials forum. No events during the week, but you might find some riders to hang out with.

Were the original sprockets aluminium? This one is magnetic and all references I see to the brand on line are all old so it could be a 25 year old aftermarket sprocket. Is the OEM offset listed somewhere? Everything looks straight as far as I can tell with a tape measure, eyeball and the bike together. One odd thing is that the paint is rubbed off the swingarm where it touches but I would expect to see it more torn up from the chain. If I mis align the snail axle adjusters by one step, I get about 2 mm clearance.

No of course it shouldn't rub on the swingarm. Here are a few possible reasons for why yours is rubbing. The axle may not be square to the centreline of the bike. The swingarm arms may be bent to the side. The sprocket may have too much dish. You may have the wrong length spacer on the brake drum side although it looks right to me in the photo. The sprocket looks like an aftermarket one I ordered in at a local shop 25 years ago and did not accept because it had too much dish.

I am in Bedfordshire where within say 50 miles can I find a shop with a decent set of alloy trials bars I can examine in the real world?

Depends if it is a fuel screw or air screw. Simple, usually air is on the air inlet side of the slide towards the air box. More air for leaner (out) or less fuel (in).

I have a new to me TY250A twin shock and the rear sprocket lightly rubs on the swing arm. Do they normally have very little clearance? The bike appears unmolested and with low hours. The axle hardware/ spacers match what is shown on the part list. The rear sprocket is steel, looks original and is marked PORTCO YA-311-53. The sprocket runs reasonable true and is not bent. My attempt to check sprocket alignment with a home improvement type laser suggests that the rear sprocket is about 1.5 mm farther out than the front sprocket. Is there something else to consider before installing a 1.5 mm spacer or taking 1.5 mm off of the mounting surface of the sprocket? Purely by eye, the sprocket looks 1/4" out from the front sprocket.

Thanks Rich, What’s the BMCA British series, I don’t know that one? I’m going off at a tangent now but I rode my Fantic at a Golden Valley Classic and Twinshock trial the other week on their Clubman route and had a great time, a day full of ‘real motorbikes’ but those trials are few and far between. I do like that I can ‘do more’ on the modern bike but it’s all rev and squirt and lacks charm. And although I love the Fantic I’m thinking there is more variety and more of a ‘scene’ for the pre 65 bikes. I’d love a Cub but with other trials bikes I’ve found that I get on better with two strokes, hence wondering about a Bantam. Interestingly, (or stupidly), I didn’t realise my Fantic had a reed valve!…. And the brakes, which I keep on top of, are no problem at all…. Guess I need to try and get a ride on one..

What should they do with all the dead animal hides, would you have them buried or burned? <- a reasonable question.

I have a bantam and have ridden a borrowed fantic on occasion. The fantic brakes are better and the bantam doesn’t have a reed valve so won’t rev and provide as much power for longer hill climbs. Having said that I ride the bantam on modern trials at clubman level and it does manage very well. Perhaps the thing which your missing which is what I suffer from and no longer why I have a modern bike is that I can ride most things on the bantam and ride the BMCA british series which gives me best of both. I’ve never really taken to twin shock because the bantam will do it all and enter British events. Classic bikes are also on the up so a British pre 65 will always hold good money long term. Youll also find that pre 65 events have easy middle and hard routes that are generally easier. Just don’t forget a “competitive” pre 65 will cost a fair bit more. Rich

First part of your question is sensible ..then it goes silly 😂 animal product free is what we need . quite simple really ... Lots of footwear is now .. cheers

This might be an odd question to ask but there’s a reason… I bought a Fantic 200 last year (been riding modern bikes for a while) and it’s a cracking bike to ride, and always puts a smile on my face. The only thing is that at my level it doesn’t really fit anywhere in the local trials I ride. I ride Sportsman and easier Clubman/middle routes on the modern bike. I also have friends who ride pre 65 bikes. Where I’m coming from is that there isn’t really a class I can ride in competitively at my level as Twinshock class always seems to follow the Middle/Clubman route which is often beyond me on a modern bike let alone the Fantic whereas pre 65 always has an ‘easy’ (Sportsman route) and a ‘hard’ (Clubman/middle route). There is always a good few chaps riding pre 65 bikes on the easy route. If I want to ride the Fantic it has to be in Sportsman against modern bikes really as there is rarely an ‘easy Twinshock route’. I know score isn’t everything but it’s nice to try to compete in your class. I’m not a young bloke and I don’t bounce so well these days so Middle route on a Twinshock is not really for me… So the question is, how would a well sorted Bantam compare to the Fantic? I guess the fact they are twin shocked and 2 stroke might be where any similarity ends but my thinking is that if I rode one of those at least there would be a specific class I’m capable of riding in to a reasonable standard. Can anyone advise on this?

Sheng Way carb fitted to a TLR. Which way to turn the mixture screw to make it run leaner? Thanks

Actually the weight bias front to rear is off. That is why they put steel fork tubes on the TRRS originally. Pushes way to often. But it balances brilliantly!

The bike was running and would fire up 2nd kick every time. Was out on a ride and it just cut out so took it to a local bike shop... Done a compression test and said the top end (piston/seals) needed doin so let him do the work. I'm guessing he took the engine out to do this? There's another bike shop a couple of miles away that only deals with trials bikes I think il just bite the bullet and take it to him so get it done tidy is my best option

Well he does ride Montesa 4T which weighs more and has a far less lively suspension to the TRS, but TRS too light in the front end, no.

wear a thin ankle brace they fit well inside the boots

You just recently had the top end done. Was the bike running fine before that? definition of fine for this case: continuous running, only shutting off when rider wished to do so. was the engine removed from the frame or only the barrel, head, and piston removed? Start looking at what items were disturbed, disconnected, etc. Any sharp bends in the wiring that could have broken wire inside the insulation.

I'd check plug colour, timing and carburation.

Maybe he means balance. Or was that sarcasm?

Does anyone know if the 349 Cota has spacers between seat tank and exhaust.my bike the seatgets so hot lying on exhaust that it cannot be ridden.we received the bike as a basket case .thanks for any help anyone can give

Genuine OKOs available from mid-atlantictrials.com They do a bike-specific set up on each carb, I've found them very good on price and service, ship to UK no problem. One of their OKOs transformed my bike.

That's a first, never heard of anybody complain about a motorcycle being too light before.

Well made, easy to work on. Easiest starting bike. Was no need for the push button. Good tough plastics. All the right components. The bad. Just a tad too small of fuel capacity. They have always had water pump seal issues. And the front end is too light.

So good I bought a second one 👍 electric start is expensive to maintain and doesn't work well in sub-zero temps, otherwise the bikes are awesome and better built then GasGas imo.

All of those electric components can be meter or scope tested to determine if replacement is required. ... I always start trouble-shooting electrics from the power source and work down stream (garbage in garbage out) you are doing it in reverse. Alternator produces the electricity so you should always start there.