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What would one be worth these days can’t really find anything about them or anyone that’s got one

The Jianshe/Yamaha 125 engine is a direct copy of the Yamaha TTR 125 engine - the same as fitted to yours. (Jianshe is 50% owned by Yamaha). Most/all the parts are interchangable. They are fitted to the new Scorpa TY 125 4t. Also fitted to the AJS 125 and many others too. You will need to get youself a 39.5mm aluminium bung made, to seal up the starter motor hole and also remove the starter motor dog gears and the large gear wheel on the back of the flywheel. Leezy will sell you a big bore kit for it (e.bay). . Search Facebook For Sale and e.bay Or, buy a new one: Jianshe JS125-6C (china-parts.co.uk)

I did not realize Scorpa was making those in 1995. Can you post a picture of the engine? The 175cc 4T Scorpas I've seen in the USA were based on the Yamaha TT-R125. But the TT-R was not introduced (here at least) until about 2000. I've owned several TT-R125s over the years. They are excellent engines and easy to work on. The Chinese pitbike motors were patterned after Honda designs.

My Scorpa TY175 (1995) died with gearbox damage. The repair will take longer, if it is possible at all. Hence my question: which engines fit in the frame? It should be a standard Yamaha engine in terms of dimensions? Are there perhaps cheap Chinese replicas that I can install first? Even if it is 125ccm and the characteristics are not very typical for trials, I wouldn't mind.

Well, that makes you the perfect EFI OSSA owner. Congratulations on the rapid repair. Thanks for giving feedback.

Thanks again for the help 12V at the fuel pump connector did nothing so removed the engine and found the negative terminal on the pump snapped off, re spliced that and it’s running perfect now I cannot believe how frustrating the engine is to remove, I’m an aeronautical engineer and would prefer changing an RB211 than an Ossa 300 engine…..!!

I disagree. I had the use of a brand new EM Pure model with clutch and tickover (and new tyres) for over 6 months and in my opinion it was very difficult to control in hilly wooded slippery conditions in the South of England. This was in direct comparison to my normal bike a 300 TRRS over the same ground. The EM was much harder to ride. It needs traction control, they spin up far too easily if the back wheel goes over a bump or tree root and the engine is under load. They are fine in the dry but I would never go near one in wet slippery conditions, especially downhill in woodland. Indeed downhill the additional weight was also very noticeable. They have their place I'm sure and probably a Mecatecno is better in this respect but I have only ridden one round a car park. They are so much lighter than EMs, but both are too expensive at present IMHO. I question spares availibility. Just give me a second

Thanks, sounds like a great deal! I have had four SWMs since I posted this. The one I have now is a keeper! Been competing on it for about 6 seasons now. Great bikes!

But back to Rosshoss problem. The 9/44 does what you are lookinng for. 2nd gear is now your normal first. Its way faster than stock 1st was. Third is your new second and its exactly the same ratio as the stock second. You would consider the first gear a granny low for only super tight work. Sure you will lose a little top speed. But luckily you prabaly rarely used up 6th gear. Good luck!

I know how it works. Used ro always ride in second and third alot more than I do now. When we went to the all day dab, the sections got even tighter. The bikes have gotten better and they all come with a really tall first gear. Which makes it very quick and fast enough to get over most obstacles. I think the NATC had some of the ride off film on the facebook page. Worth a look as it was crazy busy. And it sure would be fun to ride with you someday to show us how. I bet you are crazy fun to ride with!@

Next order: Engine bearings Dellorto gasket kit

Simple Zener diode will be mounted on a heat sink and shielded from melting anything. Time was when you could buy that fridge rectifier from a local radio shack store for 4 bucks, dating myself.

For those that have put some time on them. What have you done to prep them for wet weather? The wires going into the left sidecase look a little vulnerable. Dielectric grease anywhere?

That was my first trials bike. I have attached Jim Snell's wiring diagram. Pretty sure I had to replace the thermo-switch at some point. Best way to test the fan is by connecting it to a 12-volt battery. The regulator (Transval) is probably a Zener diode clipper. Remember that any voltage you measure without its load (fan) will be somewhat higher than when it's loaded. The thing Snell calls the DC Converter is just a bridge rectifier. Here's a YouTube on how to test it.

😂😂 Are they Balance Classics ? Gaerne never reply .. In fact was chatting to importer and they don't reply to him either .. Do you speak Italiano by any chance ? 😂😂

Multi-meter sucks for reading AC an oscilloscope is the way to go, that said it sure does sound like you have the multi-meter on the wrong settings. Start with the stator output, that is where you should see lots of non-regulated non-rectified dirty voltage coming out, your lights originally use non rectified power with the AC voltage controlled only by a regulator that sends excess voltage to ground (make sure the ground connection is solid and if that is not happening your regulator is fried.) your fan motor is the only thing requiring DC volts so after the thermostat switch you have the full wave bridge rectifier. That rectifier contains 4 diodes and is the part that will most likely fry if your voltage regulation fails. If voltage output from the stator gives wild numbers inspect the stator coil for damage from heat and test the continuity on the coil windings. From the yellow wire output to ground should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms as per the GasGas wiring schematic.

Would love to ride with y'all some time to show you how it works 😎 ... but do you have to keep dropping names of top riders.

The somewhat flippant (but accurate) answer is: When the ECU tells it to. Removing the pump is a total PITA. I strongly suggest you test the pump with a 12-volt battery connected to the bike's diagnostic port. A 2014 Explorer will have the 6-pin diagnostic connector. See: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/pc-software/diy-diagnostic-interface Just connect a battery to the Batt+ and Batt- terminals shown. The pump should run for a few seconds each time the battery is connected. Eventually, you will want/need to build a complete diagnostic cable.

I was not there, unfortunately. Still a 500 mile drive. But I did get to see an live feed. The ride off was awesome!

You’re not alone, I’m still trying to get my brake light working, currently trying a separate battery circuit to see if that will work.

It depends largely on terrain, and from what i know about the type of terrain lemur rides i can understand why he uses 3rd a lot. Personally im in 1st a lot more frequently than 3rd. Did you enjoy seeing toby on the mont @lineaway?

My Gaernes are vegan-friendly. They've never once kicked a vegan. 😀

All sorted, getting the bearings was never the issue. Simply bearings have them, it was the seperate seals that I was struggling with as them I couldn't find on any bearing suppliers website, they do them for the other size tapper rollers but not the 32004. Turns out after cleaning up that there is an 'o' ring in a groove at the bottom of the head stem and a washer at the top with an 'o' ring, these were missing, they will do a fine job of sealing the head stock with new 'o' rings. Cheers all.

Hi all, i have got a gas gas 321 2001 with rectifier/fan issues, i get ~10v ac from the voltage regulator, then at the rectifier when input the multimeter on the red and black wires to and from the fan (with the fan disconnected) i get ~25 to 30 volts, which is going to cook the fan pretty quick, when i earth the black wire i get ~ 10 to 12 volts, not sure what is happening there if anyone has had similar issues ? And could help please Thanks Anth