The Scorpa is really really soft on delivery, easy to start and super reliable, its not powerful at all but for novice sections its pretty much perfect, won't loose any money either. The Mont has significantly more power but is also very popular with high build quality, at 1200 it would need to be very very good and need nothing spending on it at all IMHO. I'd recommend the scorpa, I started back on a sherco 290 (gulp) after a long lay off, then got a scorpa 125, much better for me and my results improved massively. I think a 200cc 4T scorpa would be my ideal bike.
Dont stress about getting a working horn lights etc for scruteneering, its a visual engine off check....
I rode it a couple of years ago, really enjoyed it found it very tough for me (poor clubman rider) you will need a helper to meet you out on the roads to fuel up.
Thanks for the replies, I've gone for IRC if only for a change. Will keep a sharp eye on the tyre slippage issue, the supplier reconed it was a batch problem.
Time for a new rear on the 225 Pro, I've used the usual X11 and its well past its due date, just wondered whether Its worth going for the X Light version at a 10er more? I ride badly on the clubman route, mostly in muddy woodland sections, very rarely rocks if that makes and difference. Thought about the IRC as theyre meant to be better in mud?? But apparently they wear quicker than the x11 and I'm quite tight.. Any opinions ?
It sounds like you'll have to re-helicoil the barrel, if you've not done this before or are not familiar with the helicoil process I'd advise taking the barrel to an engineer to have it done. The Kits often come with the correct size drill for the special helicoil tap but not always, this has to be right! To drill and fit helicoils to all 6(?) holes in the barrel would take less than an hour for a decent engineer, once they are replaced they should never need doing again.
Are they so fickle these bikes that the warranty only extends for three months...
Some cars have a lifetime warranty or 100,000 miles...
That kickstart ratchet pawl sounds like a design flaw to me.
The later bikes have a different spiral on the pawl shaft which is meant to engage the pawl and gear sooner, might be better but apparently not a complete fix.I agree, thousands of bikes have kick starters which don't appear to be as troublesome as the GG one.
Likely to be kick start gear related chipped teeth on the pawl and its gear are very common, about a 100 quid in parts quite fiddly to do but OK if you are confident with the spanners. The whirring you hear will develop into a rumble which sounds terrible but disappears once the pawl and gear are changed, google it I think that Jim chap in USA has a video on youtube too. Can't say whether it is covered under warrantee you'd like to think so but I doubt it, try it and see.
Yes you will, there's a method somewhere on tinternet to measure the squish when you first assemble it so that the right thickness base gasket is selected, its worth doing properly. I'd definately go for the flywheel weight, most 225ers seem to go for two! You will need the flyweheel cover spacer as well if you do this, but again I think its worth it.
I'm ging to look at a 2008 SY250 for a friend which I'm happy to do but not sure how to date the machine. Is there something on the '08's which I can ident it by? It's in a dealers and up for 2.2k which seems a bit heavy to me as well..
Tuning-have a look around for TTR125 tuning gear there's a lot of stuff out there, the wallet might over heat! I bet its a great bike, I had the scorpa 125 when I started out and it was ace, the same soft power in the GG chassis sounds ideal for wobbler level (me).
Saw some tranny fluid on my shop floor and couldnt figure out where it was coming from. Changed the fluid, put in a new crush washer, and it was still leaking. Finally found that it was leaking out of the side cover on the stator side of the motor.. ..
The bike is a 2010 Econo model with about 20 hours on it total. Any thoughts on what would cause this?
Looks like theres water in with the oil as well, I'm guessing a gasket/O ring has gone and coolant has pressurised the oil system and forced it out of the left hand crank case seal? Head gasket/O rings leaking, water ump leaking? Some one more knowledgable will be along shortly I'm sure.
Letting it cool down slow as posible is what does the anealing, as quenching will harden it!
Another tip is to re aneal it after you straighten it so when you bash it it should just bend instead of snapping off. I do this with brake & clutch levers
\yep 100% on the slow cool down (I'm an ex tool maker!) the soap lets you heat the ally to its critical point and not risk over heating it. Good call on the re-annealing
Is it possible to alter the way the clutch bites at all? I'm looking for a softer progression point from no-drive to drive, I think the finger height affects this but I'm not sure.
Having just modified my gear lever for a bit more clearance to the flywheel cover I thought I'd pass on a tip given to me by a welder in work. To straighten a bent lever or gear lever, it's advisable to aneal the metal before re-bending it as it may have work hardened a little. To assess to temperature whilst warming it up gently with a blow torch, rub the rear face of the metal with normal hand soap. When the soap turns black, stop heating and allow the part to cool down slowly. Worked for me!
perhaps if you want something again you would support the British buisness that keep this site supported and allow you to moan about your naievety in public.
Well, after reading the suppliers detailed list of kit contents and photographs on their web site, speaking with them to double check what I was getting and to get the price I can't see how that's naive but you are of course entitled to your opinion. Please feel free to ignore any of my future postings as I can see that I my upset you with my ignorance, stupidity and naivety. I shall miss your valuable input but feel confident that I'll survive.
....or put it down to stupidity to think that you could buy the same thing in the states made in europe for less?
Thanks for the ignorant and offensive reply. It is extremely common to be able to buy parts from the US cheaper than can be found in the UK, even European manufactured items.
A question for you,I'll be pretty sparse on the nitty gritty, don't want to be acused of slagging anyone off but it's a bit of a moral dilema which I'd appreciate an unbiased view on.
Ordered some parts for the bike the other day, quite expensive in the UK but found a good price from the US, even including shipping and possible import tax. The contents of the kit was exactly the same as UK supplied and shown and listed on their web site in detail, same maker the works. Checked the price of the kit with the US supplier, all good and paid up over the phone. Problem; the kit turned up minus head and gaskets (barrel, piston, gudgeon pin and bearing supplied fine). Queried this with the supplier, turns out the US importer had supplied them with duff info (US importers web site was wrong)and I would need to buy a head seperately, they offered a special deal on a S3 head but didn't say what the price would be. I pointed out that I'd ordered and paid for a complete kit as detailed on their site and expected a head and gaskets to be forth coming. Am I being unreasonable? I realise that this is not directly my suppliers fault but then I don't think I should be stumping up for a head as well.
.. 
Scorpa 125 4t
in Four-Stroke
Posted
The Scorpa is really really soft on delivery, easy to start and super reliable, its not powerful at all but for novice sections its pretty much perfect, won't loose any money either. The Mont has significantly more power but is also very popular with high build quality, at 1200 it would need to be very very good and need nothing spending on it at all IMHO. I'd recommend the scorpa, I started back on a sherco 290 (gulp) after a long lay off, then got a scorpa 125, much better for me and my results improved massively. I think a 200cc 4T scorpa would be my ideal bike.