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dgshannon

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  1. Not being in the UK, I can't say. However, you can certainly get one out of the US here: https://cpd.direct
  2. The S3 Hard Rock footpegs, in orange, work well with the orange accents on the ePure Race.
  3. I attached a copy of the user manual for you, in case you don't have one. Epure User Manual 2021-2.0 .pdf
  4. On the surface, sounds good, when you only think of heading down hills. In practice, throttle closure occurs in too many different situations other than downhill. With a gas engine, rolling off the throttle is followed by continued flywheel engine inertia. So, the Electric Motion, as it stands, is already a bit of a shock to new riders as rolling off the throttle does not have that same inertia, and forward motion ceases much faster. If you add regenerative braking to the throttle action, that would even be more severe. Think about heading uphill on a gas engine bike. You always roll off a bit and let flywheel inertia carry you over the crest. With a stock Electric Motion, you quickly learn that you better not do that. Even worse if you tied regen braking to throttle closure. On a downhill run a gas engine provides engine braking, as the rear wheel tries to drive the engine at a faster RPM than it wants to go. In other situations, the gas engine at is still providing a bit of forward momentum while at idle. That characteristic is what the new "tickover" feature on the 2022 EM is trying to imitate. What you are suggesting is the opposite in that closing the throttle would not only stop producing power altogether, but even start resisting forward motion. I don't think that in the end it would be a desired characteristic. If regen braking were to be linked to any trigger other than its own separate switch, it might work by linking to the front brake lever. It may be a total bust, but would be an interesting experiment. The same type of front brake switch that triggers a brake light could be used to trigger regen. Sounds plausible that if you want the front brake on you might want the rear wheel to experience regen drag as well. Alternatively, it might well work if the switch was on the rear brake peddle. If it were setup such that the peddle in its full up position closed the switch and turned off regen, the the very moment you pressed the peddle down (even before starting to engage the rear brake) the regen would kick in. Further pressing down would add the physical brake to the regen.
  5. I am a bit taken back by them taking those power taps ahead of the fuse. Running 50v from there, all the way back to the LCD, before stepping down just doesn't sound wise, if that is the case. Given you felt the shock on the clutch side, I would look closely at the kill switch lanyard button mounted right next door. In addition to the normal kill switch functionality, it lights up as well. No clue what type of power they are sending up to it for that. Should be minimal, but it is still a current path. Wet lanyard around your wrist is a conduction path, as well.
  6. If so, then I am singing the same song! Technology yes, but such a drastic reduction in moving parts makes for elegant simplicity. In your search for the issue, I presume that you removed the orange mesh and checked all the cable connections? Time to break out the multi-meter and go to town!
  7. Really cool that you came up with the connectors. Thanks! I have attached a pic I grabbed from one of John's (Ka Uila Motors) YouTube videos. Look below his thumb and you will see a mini-lever style trigger-switch that he is using for his region braking. He is selling the whole setup, plug-n-play ready as an alternative to a push button. To me, that is the solution that makes the most sense. Being skilled in electronics, I want to save the cost by assembling my own. However, so far, all of my search efforts to find a trigger-switch like that have turned up nothing. Danged if I can find one!
  8. The throttle tube on the EM is open. I went with these orange ones from ZETA, to compliment the bike colors. Top quality kit. Available from the Tryals Shop: https://www.tryalsshop.com/Bar-Ends-Plug-Handlebar-Zeta-p39622585
  9. Really at a loss on this one, as my stand is not even slightly problematic. The bike leans well to the right. In the past, I have had bikes that you dare not hang you helmet on the side opposite the kickstand, for fear of tipping it over! However, as you can see in the photo, not at all an issue. I really wonder what is causing owners to have different experiences. Something not consistent, for sure.
  10. Unfortunate that your impression wasn't a positive one. I have had numerous exchanges with the owner, and his staff, over the past couple of years, and have always been well pleased. Have you reached out to your local EM dealer, in California? Likely they would have a bit more time to help you with any issues, than the owner of a multi-brand bike importing company does. My kickstand length is perfectly fine, and works just like the high-end add ons I have put on my other bike brands. Any chance yours has become bent at the mounting point? On your "clunk", can you tell if it is front versus rear? Maybe associated with your kickstand issue? 🤔
  11. 1) The tickover modes are separate maps in the controller. To have it on a 2021 would require being able to install/change new maps. To date, I have seen nothing around the ability to do this after the bikes leave the factory. Montesa provides for map changes on the 4RT, so it would be cool if EM allowed the same. 2) You can get the factory button from your EM dealer. However, if I were to add one, John at Kauila Motors (kauilamotors@gmail.com) has one that is a small, single-finger, lever instead of a button. To me, using your index finger to pull a trigger, rather than your thumb to push a button, is a far better solution. Plus, the one John sells is considerably cheaper.
  12. I didn't snap till just recently that the audible sound is different for each map. I am going to have to pay more attention and learn which is which, rather than peaking down at the light color.
  13. I saw a video, just yesterday, of a user demoing tickover. The map button has moved to the left handlebar, and if I understood correctly, there are twice as many map options. 3 without tickover and 3 with. First click was normal 125 mode, second click was 125 with tickover, etc. What tickover does is simulate idle. With it turned on, you MUST pull in the clutch to stop, just as with a petrol bike. Essentially, it just spools up the electric motor a bit so that it cannot drop to zero power out. You could take your hand off the throttle and idle around as you would with a running engine. It might be nice, but I don't think I am going to lose sleep over mine not having it. For a fresh convert to the bike, it is a shock when you first start learning that turning the throttle fully off immediately stops forward momentum. You just sort of learn not to go totally back to zero, unless you want that.
  14. Very curious to here about that, as well. I am hoping that EM gets into supporting controller updates. Montesa allows you to flash a new map to their fuel injection. Nice if we could flash new features (such as Tickover) and maps, to ours. For example, I really have ZERO use for 300 mode, but it would be nice to have a map sitting between 125 & 250 mode instead.
  15. Even with the Race models flywheel weights, there is essentially no engine braking. I thought that might be a big concern on downhills, but the brakes are so incredibly good, it is not an issue. Different than engine braking, but in the same vein, is how quickly rolling off the throttle stops forward momentum. A petrol engine will fire, Sith some authority, several more times after you roll off the throttle. Not so with this bike. Turn off the throttle and the motor output follows IMMEDIATELY. Very much an adjustment curve. Especially for things like double-blips, for crossing logs and such. Surprised you could see enough of the 349 to identify it! That is a 1982 that I just finished restoring. Restoration Video The Sherpa is the bit more rare, in the US anyway, 1976 Model 158. The SL350 is a 1973, with 2,700 miles, from a barn find estate sale! Mind blown when I found that one. Not in the photos is my 1970 SL100, that I have owned since new, I am currently in the reassembly steps of restoring it.
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