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  1. Both the old Magura, and the new Domino, throttle are 0-5k Ohm potentiometer units. No Hall Effect on these. I just ordered, and received, a Domino throttle (not from EM) and I am waiting on the necessary connectors to arrive, before I install it. I am going to use it to replace the Magura on my 2021 Race. The Domino does have two extra wires for the micro switch. If you get the Domino from EM themselves, I have not clue what, if anything, they are doing with the micro switch. To your point, I have likewise considered tying the micro-switch into the FRB connector, such that throttle closed would trigger regenerative braking. However, not that I have the throttle in hand, there is no play, or gap, between throttle off and switch closed. In the end, I don't think that using it for regenerative braking would be wise. When negotiating obstacles in trials, crossing logs, climbing hills, etc. that last thing you would want is the sudden trigger of extreme braking when you closed the throttle. It would be great if the transition from throttle closed, to micro-switch closed, had a minor mechanical stop. In other words, you would have to intentionally trigger it by closing the throttle a bit further than natural stop. But alas, that is not the case. I have found a handlebar mounted thumb button that I think will do the trick. When mounted in reverse, the offset of the design should place the button in a position that your clutch finger can easily reach and press it. To me, that seems like the most natural way to trigger regenerative braking. Certainly not a thumb button, or the seemingly awkward second lever, above the clutch, the EM is using.
  2. I have not ridden a 2022, with traction control, so I can't speak to that aspect of your question. However, I do have a 2021 "Race" with a clutch. Having ridden the bike for a little over a year, I can say that there is little to no reason to have the clutch, unless you are a very advanced rider. Unless you have need to rev the motor to high RPM, before a sudden clutch release, to leap up onto a rock, etc. then you don't need it. In fact, for tight and technical sections, full-lock turns, etc. the advantage is the fact that you don't use the clutch. It demands that you develop a greater level of throttle control, but the ability to ride the bike using throttle alone is amazing. So, unless you a a high-level, accomplished, trials rider, it is a safe bet you would be happy going with a lower spec model sans clutch, traction control, tickover, etc.
  3. What lever did you use? The factory add on?
  4. I suppose that you could, but I imagine it would be VERY cost prohibitive. Lots of parts involved. With that said, as good as the clutch is, I hardly ever use it. As you develop greater throttle (rheostat) control, you can actually ride the technical stuff more precisely, and smoothly, by avoiding the added complication of trying to modulate a clutch. The motor will turn as slow as you want.
  5. The throttle is electronic. It is connected by electrical wiring. Nice that you don't have a cable to lubricate, or that can get into a bind. As far as the controller, I can't say. No indication that the user can reprogram. Just pick from the various maps built in from the factory.
  6. I have a 2021, which is different, so can’t say for sure. I believe that they moved the map switch, and indicator light, to its own housing on the left side of the handlebars. I believe that is what you are looking at.
  7. It certainly would not be "too much bike". The map switch allows you to change between 125, 250, and 300 mode. You can dial the power as you see fit. With that said, and as strange as it sounds, you might consider the less expensive model that comes without the clutch. The more proficient that I get on the bike, the less I need the clutch. For upper class riders, that need to rev high prior to popping the clutch for a huge leap, the clutch is great. For lower class folks that are simply negotiating turns in a section, it is really unnecessary. Riding the Electric Motion well requires a deft throttle hand. With a gas bike, you are always balancing clutch slip against throttle input. Removing clutch from the equation makes you a MUCH smoother rider. However, that transfers full responsibility to your throttle control. Consider that you have full torque from zero RPM and the slightest blip of the throttle produces immediate results. Once your mind adapts to unlearning old habits and developing new ones, it is magical what you can do. You want to stop forward motion? Just close the throttle! Engine won't die. You can move along a 1/4 RPM if you like. Don't want to talk you out of a clutch, as I like having mine for backup habits. However, just want you to know that it is not necessary for riding trials, and probably less so for your intended purpose.
  8. You have gone through the obvious steps. Trying to think outside the box, since you said top of the stroke, what about chain tension? Adjusted too tight and making noise sometimes? Something in the chain tensioner making noise as it move through its range?
  9. That would be me. The ZETA bar ends come with two different size inserts, in the package. No drilling of the bars required, with the correct set of inserts. (The set to the right, running vertically.)
  10. Having spoken with a key insider, this was attributed to a blunder. Didn't start the event with a full charge and had no backups!
  11. It does take more than a little acclimation time. To me, considerably more than when switching from 2-stroke to 4-stroke. It requires a deft throttle hand, for sure. I can't totally agree with the comment on difficulty regaining traction once the tire slips. Provided you don't have, or use, the tickover mode (counter-productive in my opinion), it is as simple at closing the throttle. Then SLOWLY reapply. The bike performs incredibly well when you learn to stay off the clutch and ride with throttle only. Totally eliminates a variable that can effect (jar) smooth traction management. Bike maintenance, or lack thereof, is brilliant. As is the absence of kickstarting, waiting for engine warm-up, hot having a hot engine or exhaust, etc. Once you get beyond the missing petrol engine noise, the bike makes its own sounds. Things that you acclimate to and learn to hear instead. The whir of the clutch gears, tires on the dirt, chain, etc. No desire to return to petrol, whatsoever!
  12. Not being in the UK, I can't say. However, you can certainly get one out of the US here: https://cpd.direct
  13. The S3 Hard Rock footpegs, in orange, work well with the orange accents on the ePure Race.
  14. I attached a copy of the user manual for you, in case you don't have one. Epure User Manual 2021-2.0 .pdf
  15. On the surface, sounds good, when you only think of heading down hills. In practice, throttle closure occurs in too many different situations other than downhill. With a gas engine, rolling off the throttle is followed by continued flywheel engine inertia. So, the Electric Motion, as it stands, is already a bit of a shock to new riders as rolling off the throttle does not have that same inertia, and forward motion ceases much faster. If you add regenerative braking to the throttle action, that would even be more severe. Think about heading uphill on a gas engine bike. You always roll off a bit and let flywheel inertia carry you over the crest. With a stock Electric Motion, you quickly learn that you better not do that. Even worse if you tied regen braking to throttle closure. On a downhill run a gas engine provides engine braking, as the rear wheel tries to drive the engine at a faster RPM than it wants to go. In other situations, the gas engine at is still providing a bit of forward momentum while at idle. That characteristic is what the new "tickover" feature on the 2022 EM is trying to imitate. What you are suggesting is the opposite in that closing the throttle would not only stop producing power altogether, but even start resisting forward motion. I don't think that in the end it would be a desired characteristic. If regen braking were to be linked to any trigger other than its own separate switch, it might work by linking to the front brake lever. It may be a total bust, but would be an interesting experiment. The same type of front brake switch that triggers a brake light could be used to trigger regen. Sounds plausible that if you want the front brake on you might want the rear wheel to experience regen drag as well. Alternatively, it might well work if the switch was on the rear brake peddle. If it were setup such that the peddle in its full up position closed the switch and turned off regen, the the very moment you pressed the peddle down (even before starting to engage the rear brake) the regen would kick in. Further pressing down would add the physical brake to the regen.
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