well that's easy then - don't know about OS but there were more TLs and Jumbos here in Oz then the red and white ones. And i'm really biased but the TLs are beautiful to ride and the rotary induction engine is great. Have not ridden a Jumbo but plenty of fans on here.
If you google "motorcycle electrics uk" youll find as company that sells bultaco electronic kits. A fresh delorto or mikuni carb may help as well? I have a decomp on my SWM and it really helps so you don't try to kick at TDC. You can also hill start in a low gear with a decomp.
I use the bolt in the crankcase method - unscrew the existing bolt and replace with a longer bolt - ensure your taper the bolt end with a grinder and away you go.
Lots of "sows ears to silk purse" conversions popular with customizers these days - a least this one has the mechanical basics right but its a FAIL from me.
Second hand renthals broke on a small impact - turns out internal corrosion from mud was the cause.
Since replaced with custom bars which are slightly higher and are bloody marvellious.
Back to original falcons and it would appear my assumption od fthem being 40lb not right most likely 50lb andf Im sticking with them after trying new steel betors which weeped a bit and Im in the process of sending them back - supplier easy to deal with on issue.
Hi Paul, what do you mean by "less stop-loss troque"?
The bike is an import from Italy, the previous owner is btw. also a member of this forum. He collects trials bike and do have some more.
Anyway I think too it wasn't used so much in trials events and trials training, maybe more for motoalpinisti, (hiking around up and down the mountains in the Alpes).
But how knows as I found marks of one of the earlier hand painted register number witch started with TN = Tornio, then there is a decal from the town Moena left
and last but not least the bike stood 30 km east of Bolzano when I bought it. The speedo shows 2970 km now I believe, so it did came around in northern Italy the
last 30 years.
In my experience so far the Betor forks have a little bit smoother action and less stop-loss torque.
New tyres, right bar for my height, mental rehearsal, affirmations, practice and watching videos and real time observation of other riders. Oh and focus on having fun not the results.
I use rider evaluation forms and listen to others in my club on advice and try it out with practice.
For example - from the evaluation form my last three areas for improvement were:
good orientation in the section ; stay loose on the bars; slow down; These came from an observation that I was riding too fast; I was getting 5 s for getting lost and an observer suggested for me to relax [i was getting really tense on the bike].
Did you adjust the screw on the clutch arm when you swapped the cases ? If not unscrew it a quarter turn at a time (take up the slack on the cable) and see if that cures it.
If not it sounds like clutch springs. I rebuilt an Aprilia TX300 recently that had exactly the same problem. This one was running on 4 clutch springs and was super light in the first 3 gears and slipped like hell in top. I stuck another 2 springs in and it cured it.
That fixed it - thanks for the advice - While the screw had similar distance out from case mechanism this obviously would be different on the two bikes due to clutch plate thickness/wear etc - so adjustment as per the owners manual you supplied way back when did the trick. Also the cable nipple had slipped up the actuator arm slot so i got some adjustment back at the lever as well by closing that slot. I'm now running 4 XR valve springs and 2 SWM standard [?] springs - light at the lever and no slippage in 6th. Still doesn't fully disengage using two fingers but isn't an issue for non stop and a little rear brake if I do stop- very happy with set up now.
Thanks will do. I did try replacing to of the light springs with two standards and no change even tho a bit stiffer at lever. More and more it sounds like the replacement of the clutch cover means that actuator is adjusted differently or has different width parts isn't allowing full release of basket.
Hi All, I have a recently rebuilt engine in my TL 320 and the clutch is incredibly light [good for comp.] but slips in the higher gears badly [no good for trial riding between sections]. Was wondering whether you could put the clutch back together in a way that makes this happen?? It didn't do this before. While this may seem obvious I also installed a clutch cover from my no. 2 bike after the rebuild with a lengthened actuator arm so thought that's where the light action came from. But im guessing that will having nothing to do with the slippage?
A few notes on further work, lessons learned and observations on no.1 bike after engine stripped and inspected.
1.Currently have Betor Forks from no. 2 bike and while fresh pursang fork springs with 10mm spacers made a worlds of difference the action is still not real good - bottoming and topping noises - inspection of the lower end of the tube compared to no. 1 bike and it looks like there is a nylon tube spacer missing but if that's the case the tube is shorter. Without oil or springs they feel like they get stuck on compression.
One fork leg on the no.1 bike is missing the SWM stamped on the side - it would appear that it is a replacement because it looks more like a Bully and the SWM one has an interesting bronze bush below the oil seal location and different depth for the seals to sit in. The action of these forks even tho they leak a lot and have heaps of sicks in time is way superior. We have fitted new ariett seals as advised elsewhere on this site by bully lover to these and will refit when i get a chance and rechrome at a later date when i have worked out whats up with no. 2s forks.
2. Sanding the high spots off the front brake shoes improved performance a fair bit.
3. I have fitted older renthals with a higher rise around 200mm at bar ends and they really suit my height.
4. Fitted new clutch cable with a larger nipple than what i had [venhill cable with magura lever] which meant I went to the domino lever off the spare bike. cable outer was a bit long so had to shorten with a dremel. Action is very good with the 6mm piece welded into the actuator arm inside the clutch case with a little slipping in higher gears. This the clutch off no. 2 bike so I assume they are standard plates and springs [not the barnett plates with XR650 valve springs as clutch springs i reported earlier]. But very happy with its action in the sections so going to leave as is.
5. both bikes clutch cases have been welded around kicker and case protectors fitted using collets between protector plate and cases. Interestingly when i was replacing the cover the clutch let go like the nipple had pulled through the actuator arm opened her up and it seemed something in the mechanism has gone. Refitted the other. [great having a complete runner for spares and reference].
6. the engine was taken in for a complete rebuild due to the fact i suspected it was sucking gearbox oil and after replacing the clutch side crankcase seal. This turned out to be a buggered induction manifold after reassembling the bike to find it still smoking and running like crap . The engine strip revealed sheared teeth on the kickstart gears and so wasn't a complete waste of time. Bore was standard and piston within spec and big end was fine as was gearbox and new standard piston rings fitted [not bad for a thirty year old bike that had two seasons at the hands of a a grade rider]. Built with new o rings etc etc and the case were resurfaced as this was the suspected leak. Two shims placed in the head to get the squish right and the rotary disk was turned one spline notch to match literature specs.
While it was part various small weld repairs were done to the magnesium cases. Condenser was replaced and failed within 1.5 tanks of fuel after rebuild and new points fitted.
This engine is amazing starts first kick and the performance is brilliant.
7. new Betor expert shocks with harder springs [50lb?] at 360mm replaced 355mm Falcons which I thought were 40lbs but wire diameter the same and coil numbers the same. Whichever the bike sits a bit higher and the action great for my level and absolute bargains if reliability holds out. They are fitted on the front mounts.
8. a replacement plastic fuel tap failed and the no. 2 bikes tank seat unit fitted.
9. I cut a new air filter from a sheet of airfilter foam [the third I have made from a $25 sheet as well as one for a XR80] and oiled with no toil filter oil.
I have ridden two trials on her and compared to our mighty little TY its a fantastic bike. Brilliant handling and such a grunty and smooth engine make it an absolute brilliant bike for a clubman like me. Forks sorted and a bit of love on the rear brake and she will as good a twin shock bike I have ever ridden and even tho Im biasied thats saying alot cause this includes a Majesty 250 - very nicely prepped and a much modified TY200 which is brilliant as well.
Owning this bike and having it as a runner would not have been possible with out my mate Feet Up Fun and all the advice and parts supplied from contacts on this site. Thanks everyone and to anyone considering a holiday to Oz especially QLD drop us a PM and ill see if I can get you a ride.
. The engine strip revealed sheared teeth on the kickstart gears and so wasn't a complete waste of time. Bore was standard and piston within spec and big end was fine as was gearbox and new standard piston rings fitted [not bad for a thirty year old bike that had two seasons at the hands of a a grade rider]. Built with new o rings etc etc and the case were resurfaced as this was the suspected leak. Two shims placed in the head to get the squish right and the rotary disk was turned one spline notch to match literature specs.
1978 Swm
in SWM
Posted
holiday in Italy perhaps - last time i looked quite a few runners on their e bay.