Yes, I have a new one here if you would like to use it for pattern.
Copemech,
Hold tight as I may take you up on the offer in lieu of taking mine off which has untold amount of RTV around it. I was going on spring break first week in April and my son was not going to ride so timing to take it off was good.
I ve seen a wingspar for A340 airbus billet milled spindle speeds of 50k rpm, magnetic flux spindle bearings, bearings 2" cutter, full depth plunge, 2 metres /min feed. My footpegs are enough for me; one footrest billet starts at 500 grammes and finishes at 105 grammes. After copemech's comment I feel guilty for having nothing regarding flywheel weights... on that subject wasn't one of the Spanish manufacturers who last year announced (effectivly) a variable rate flywheel.... I guese this would be opposite to a moped/scooter clutch effect... I would want a lot of flywheel on bottom end and none on top end of revs..interesting one that!
Enough said.... I am just a hack that has access to a full machine shop with a lot of professional machinist. I think they like to watch me try things for entertainment. Since I am the VP of Safety they only let it go so far as not to hurt myself or someone else! I like to think it helps me have a better understanding of what they do and the hazards associated with the craft.
The little needle that the float arms attach to does have a red rubber tip on the end of it so you are saying it is causing the overfilled crankcase and the brass ones are better? I just want to make sure I am referencing the right needle.
Thanks for your help,
Jamie
Yes that is correct. If you inspect the rubber tip you will probably see a slight ridge that runs aroung the entire rubber needle tip just below the very end. This ridge is wear caused from the seat and most likely incompatiablity with ethanol fuel. The steel seats are unaffected by ethanol. If you call RYP they have the correct needle and seat i believe that it is a 200 needle & seat (part #D10305x200 "alchohol") rated part. They are sold toghether.
Ryan used to have some several years ago. Someone was making, but they were way expensive at 2-300 range.
The older style had the wing piece for chain guard built in. Not neccessary as the new ones don't.
The newer covers, '06 up I believe, are a bit better designed and overlap the case a bit with an outer lip. One of these may make a better pattern to copy. I may have one as spare.
What would be interisting would be to make a bit deeper cover to get an added flywheel weight in there for the big bikes.
Perhaps Chewy has a old Beta flyweight laying around?
I will try and accomodate added space on the inside however the give up is the increased external dimension in relation to where the shift lever is oriented to the cover as this has a bevel angle to it.
nice one they are all crappy to this day. Reckon you're going to have a lot of Swarf by the time you've finshed. Havn't heard or seen anything similar ..looks like the job is all yours.
Based on the block size to start with the Swarf will rapidly pile up. Have you ever seen a solid wheel made? The amount of residual milling is crazy. Hopefully will start on it the first week in April.
I am getting ready to CNC/machine a T-6061 flywheel cover for my 04 125. My stock plastic cover is distored and requires RTV to seal it up with the o-ring in place. I will use the existing plastic cover for the root file dimensions. Since this will be made under CNC I will probably produce at least 3 or 4 additional pieces depending on spare time at work. However, I want to see if these are available in the aftermarket space. I don't seem to be able to find any out there on the internet. If available can you tell me where you have seen them avialibe in the US? Thanks.
I called RYP.....damn they know their stuff. They said that the gas in the ignition side case leaked past the crank seal but they thought the crankcase was just overfilled. They said if the seal was bad it would suck air in and pull the plastic igntion cover into the flywheel and wear a hole in it. There are no signs of contact on my ignition seal and after draining/filling the transmission I am not getting any fluid in the ignition case any longer.
I am going to ride it this weekend and will periodically pop the ignition case loose to see if I have any drainage. RYP said if the crank seal went bad on the clutch side it would smoke like a freight train and have no power. That doesn't seem to be the case on this bike but it is running very lean right now.
I just rebuilt my 04 125 (it was seized when I purchased it) and used RYP for parts and other information. Given the issue of the fuel in the bottom end I highly recommed that you verify if your fuel needle seat has a rubber tip. If so contact RYP and purchase the brass needle and seat. After my rebuild I filled the crank case with fuel twice while trying to hop around in the driveway and came to the quick conclusion that the needle was worn and the up and down motion of hoping/ general riding was making the issue worse. Replaced the needle and seat and problem solved. Unfortunately I had to buy a stator/ flywheel shortly after this which was rather expensive.
thanks, it makes perfect sense.... never thought of doing that... do you have a picture tho, idlike to see it before i start drilling holes in me bike...hahaha
as for the fan, it spins freely and i cant see it being in contact with anything...
See photos below of the choke lever with zip ty modification. Very high tech
1. Spin the fan by hand and see if it is hitting on the ty wrap that hold some of the wires as if it slides down slightly the fan blade could be hitting the ty wrap when the fan blades flex slightly.
2. For the choke fix. (I saw this in a photo that someone had on here). Drill a small hole in the choke lever (toward the end) and then put a small ty wrap through the hole. Pull the ty wrap tight. The tag end of the ty wrap makes it easy to pull the choke lever back down without having to take off gloves or fish your finger up and behind the lever to turn it off. If this does not make sense let me know and I will post a photo.
I actually used a piece of 3M non-skid tape cut to size. The type you use on steps etc. Make a template from the old pieces and cut them out accordingly. I have also used skate board grip tape as well on my MX bikes.
Ok I seem to have everything sorted out on the my 04 125 rebuild and everthing is running fine. This is my first trials bike. I purchased it with a seized motor so I have no idea what the fan did before. My question is, at what frequecy should the fan cycle on and off? My fan comes on a couple times every minute under normal low speed riding etc. Does anyone know what temp the fan switch/ sensor is set at which activates the fan?? I don't have any overflow out of the vent tube on the radiator cap etc. Just checking to make sure this is the norm.
The V-Mar clamps are nice clean well built units, plus they're made right here in the good old USA
Leaning the Vmar direction. My son was riding it yesterday and bent the handle bars in a fall. Doesnt matter as I bought and built the bike to be ridden. Since this is my first trials bike the bent bars would have driven me crazy on my Mx bikes but somehow I don't seem to pay that much attention to the tweak in them as I am having too much fun on it just trying to balance!!!
I have just rebuilt my Sherco 250 (2004) and filling it with oil it suprised me that there is no sight glass (as mates beta has) or dip stick? Put in 450ml of ATF in as recommended but I would like to be able to check how much is in there after a couple of hours running (without having to drain the oil). Has anyone modified the clutch cover to add a sight glass?
Great idea but the time consumed in making the determination of where to drill the hole in relation to where the oil level is would not be the best time spent. My dad always instructed me to "measure twice and drill once"!!!! This is one of those instances where it is probably not the best idea unless you have a lot of money to purchase side covers for trial and error.
That would be me;.. top yokes I made are for 2011 ST don't knoe if they are samectrs etc for fork legs & spindle. I used to make bar clamps for both Fatbar & 7/8" bars I have a few (I think lying about the workshop) current bolt ctrs are 38 mm old ones (that I have are 40 ctrs) ,if I have and you pay postage I 'll send em over, let me know.
Appreciate the generous offer. Let me know how much postage you need and I will follow up with you. My postal (zip) code is 30041 if that helps with postage calculation.
IMO a mid-grade 520 (Regina or Renthal) chain should last a couple of years depending on the amount of use and the amount of sprocket wear. I have usually had to replace the rear sprocket before the chain if it is aluminum. Again there are quite a few variables that dictate the life of the chain. I once had a Sidewinder chain that I won at a race and ran it for 2 years on a 450 MX bike which had 150 hours of use. I put it on the bike when it was new along with the hour meter!!!! I kept it clean and used WD-40 to displace the water after each wash.
I usually check the chain wear/ stretch by pulling the chain back from the rear sprocket and if it pulls back where you can see space greater tan 1/4 of the space between the teeth i consider it worn out.
Not a member yet. This is my first trials bike and just finished rebuilding the motor and getting some electrical issues worked out. I have a couple of buddies that are just starting as well so I am sure our paths will cross eventually as they have been to a couple of STRA events already. My name is Reid by the way.
Received and installed new stator and flywheel from RYP (somehow RYP does not sell stator only like SplatShop). Bike runs perfect!!! It seems like it is also running cooler as the fan does not cycle on near as frequently as it was with the old stator. Still need to verify it is working though.
Upon removal and inspection of the old stator there was a nick in one of the white wires so I am not sure if this was grounding out or what. As you can imagine I did not want to fix this wire reinstall with all the other components (coolant, radiator, exh header, etc.) only to still have the issue and have to pull it apart again.
In any event she is running and I can now ride it with my son!!!! Thanks for all the replies.
Well, that pretty much sucks. Double checking the flywheel is good, yet from what you have described? but you gotta go there anyway.
Seems the coils seldome fail, so I would let him have it back, just part of the process one cannot overlook. Even sheared keyways are fairly rare, and in your case claiming intermittant spark? because a sheared key still fires, just at the wrong time, so in most cases you are back to the stator, and what I suspect the erratic operation of the hall sensors, yet no way to test in operation.
Ryan is always good to work with and helpful. I do not know if he has any rebuilt stators, but as I understand you can get just a stator new now, where as in years past one had to get the pricy rotor assembly. Gotta ask him?
Udate:
Pulled flywheel and woodruff key is not sheared in any way. Time for a stator....
Update: Received the new coil from RYP and installed accordingly. Same symptoms.... Talked to RYP today and need to verify if flywheel key has sheared or not. Wouldn't you know it my puller is at my buds shop. RYP was very generous to offer a refund on the coil since that was not the problem. I am going to keep it as having a spare is not a bad idea. I did test the stator per the SplatShop instructions and all the test show my stator to be good. The readings were on the low side of what SplatShop has posted but they were all within range. The other thing I have noticed is that the bike starts with an obvious kick back whereas when it was running good I did not notice this.....more to follow.
I received the new needle and seat from RYP along with a new gasket kit for the PHBL(BS)26.
Installed and started bike. Bike started with a high idle and would not adjust out with the idle screw. Note: Idle screw had no effect on bike. Turned off bike and checked for obvious air leaks etc. but none found. Started bike back up and proceeded to check electrical connections. I messed around with the yellow wire from fan radiator hose sensor and all of a sudden bike would idle normal. Checked all connections and appeared good. Adjusted idle screw and bike was running great on the stand. Turned bike off went in and ate lunch, came back out started bike again and it would only idle roughly with signs of running rich by looking at the exhaust emission. When you go to feed it fuel it will not rev and only sounds like it is getting intermitent spark. When you feed it fuel it sounds like blub, blub, blub. Hopefully you get what I mean..... I checked all the wire for continuity and they appear good along with the connections. Kill switch is fine as bike will run with out it connected. Stumped!!!!! Additional thoughts???? What is the proper float level adjustment? I think that it is level when the seat is fully closed correct but if not would this cause the bike to run rich immediately off idle?
Sherco Flywheel/ Ignition Cover
in Sherco
Posted
Copemech,
Hold tight as I may take you up on the offer in lieu of taking mine off which has untold amount of RTV around it. I was going on spring break first week in April and my son was not going to ride so timing to take it off was good.