From people that have ridden both I am told that the TRS has very similar ride characteristics as a Gas Gas. They were both developed to suit Adam Raga and I believe both had involvement from Jordi Tarres, so the ride is similar.
Check all bolts now and after a couple of rides. My swinging arm bolt was loose from new! Only other issue I've had was a failed lanyard switch that prevented the bike from starting.
I have a 2020 300 GP. It starts usually 2nd kick from cold and almost always 1st kick when warm. I wouldn't say it requires any particular knack; just get the kickstart on compression and then give it a good solid kick without snatching at it, and NO throttle!
I swapped the rear shock spring on my 2020 Gas Gas GP 300 and it was a straight forward job. Mine has a Reiger 3 way shock but I presume the 2 way Reiger on the standard TXT model will be very similar.
Remove the air box and rear wheel for easy access (the handbook advises removing the silencer but its not needed)
Slacken off both of the spring preloaders at the bottom of the shock all the way (best to do this before the next step to avoid the shock spinning)
Remove the top shock bolt and tip the shock back
Once you have done 2. and 3. the top section of the shock should move down slightly to allow you to remove a large circlip.
Once the circlip is off, the top section that holds the spring will come off and allow the spring to come off over the top of the shock.
Put on the new spring and do all of the above in reverse
Set your static and weighted sag roughly
Ride the bike a bit to bed in the spring
Set your static and weighted sage again a bit more precisely (instructions on this are in the handbook)
Changing the spring took me about half an hour with no prior knowledge, just figuring it out as I went along. If you don't know how shocks disassemble (I didn't) the circlip was only apparent after the preloaders were wound all the way off so no pressure was on the spring.
For what it is worth I fitted a Jitsie aftermarket spring and it has made a big difference. I found the shock bottomed out a lot with the standard spring even with preload wound up high. The Jitsie springs are a little cheaper than the Reiger ones. Splatshop sells them among others.
Surely the difference between a trial and a practice session is down to the amount of time actually riding. I would expect 4+ hours at a trial to use up considerably less battery/petrol than 3 hours when practising.
At a trial you spend a significant period of that time walking sections and sat in queues, whereas a practice session you are on the go all the time (mostly).
I am definitely tempted once my current petrol bike needs upgrading. I echo the comments about them becoming outdated very quickly due to enhancing technology.
My main concern would be the weight. The Race model is quoted as 75kg, which seems heavy compared to 68kg for a 300 GasGas, or 66kg if you want to spend £10k on a Vertigo Titanium model. I'm guessing that is all batteries though?
Previous owner was too handy with a pressure washer i think. After it was stood a month the bearings had seized. They freed off enough to ride but aren't smooth now. I'm hoping I can just replace the inner race when I open it up as that should help. But as I have the full bearing I may as well do it properly. Just need to know how to get the outer race out?
Only thing I can think of is that it hasn't been assembled correctly (spacer missing or on wrong side etc) making the whole system run out of alignment causing it to twist under compression.
Either that or it was just a faulty part, but you would expect to be able to see some form of imperfection along the break line to indicate this.
As mentioned above if you get the float setting perfect a Beta engine is pretty bomb proof.
The electrics are a common fault, in particular the stators go on them frequently, so ask if it's it had a new/reconditioned one fitted. After every wash (and wet ride) make sure to take off the flywheel cover and give it a squirt of WD40 or something similar to disperse any water and let it dry out fully.
The clutch can stick when cold and drag a little when in use. If that bothers you search for the beta clutch fix on here you will find all you need to resolve that.
Some of the stickers on my GasGas are starting to come away at the edges and have lost there stickiness (I was probably over keen with the jet wash and liberal use of silicone spray afterwards).
What glue is best for sticking them back down before they peal too much and get damaged?
Ideally I want something that is strong enough to reattach them but not too strong that they will never come off again if I decide to replace the stickers at a later date.
I have a 2021 300 GP and it's exactly the same. I'd much rather it run perfectly when it's up to temperature, than sacrifice something to make it run a bit cleaner when it's cold.
The only thing that can affect engine performance with gradient changes is the float height.
I am presuming the same thing doesn't happen when you rev the bike on the flat?
But does the same thing happen if you are not revving the bike and are on a hill? For example if you had the bike on tickover and just lifted the front wheel up onto a rock to replicate the angle of the steep hill does it do the same thing? If it does the only thing that can really be effected by the angle of the bike is the float height.
If it doesn't do the same thing when not revving and lifting the front wheel then it must be that the bike isn't getting enough fuel when you rev it going up a hill (presuming it's fine when you rev it on the flat). This to me would suggest that either the float level isn't correct and its shutting off the valve when upright (but that should happen when it was stood still with the front wheel elevated too) or something else is causing the fuel to be starved when you go up a hill, possibly a vacuum in the tank caused by a blocked breather.
So I took the clutch cover off yesterday and the clutch was in position 2 from standard. So I've moved it to position 3 to see if that helps. I'll report back once I've tried it on a ride.
I've just seen the results from the recent Spanish championship round and the first 4 riders all finished "clean" after having their scores wiped because of time bonus points.
The riders seem to be getting 10-20 bonus points each lap deducted from their scores for time bonuses. The top lads were dropping 5-15 actual marks a lap so they were ending up on zero.
Anyone know anything about it? It seems a bit stupid to me.
I presume I will need some very accurate digital calipers to get that level of accuracy on the plate height.
This might be a stupid question but what do I do if the plate height is not in that range? New clutch plates? The bike has only been ridden a handful of times so I am guessing it will be fine for a while. But is this something I should be measuring periodically to maintain the proper clutch tolerances? If they are out of tolerance after say a years riding would it be new clutch plates to sort?
I've been riding my 2020 300 GP for a while now and love it but I am struggling to adapt to the clutch. It's very light but the lever throw is quite long compared to previous bikes I've owned.
I'm aware they have a 3 stage adjustable clutch but I can't seem to find much information on them or if adjusting it will have the desired effect. Basically I want a shorter lever throw and the bite point to be more instant.
Can anyone shed some light on this and what the 3 different positions do?
I'm looking to buy a MOTS stone 4 jacket but need some advice on sizing. The size guide on the MOTS website is clearly wrong as the measurements make no sense at all.
I am guessing I am between a M and L.
Does anyone have one that could advise on fitting? Your height/build etc and size you wear.
As mentioned above. With any pads you need to get them hot enough to burn the crud off and a trials bike never gets them hot enough to do that. Stick your bike in 4th gear and go up and down a road a couple of times with the brake pulled in to get them really hot. Have someone ready with a bottle of clean water to tip on them. Do that 2 or 3 times with each brake and they should be fine. Do each brake separately and don't over do it or you can cook the seals. You want it hot enough that it sizzles and steams when you pour the water on but not that hot that the brakes start to fade.
If a trial is really muddy I find I need to do this more often. If you are stuck you can find a stream or puddle and do the same procedure and jump off and kick water over the brake, but it works a lot more effectively with a nice clean bottle of water.
I've just got some Gaerne balance natural oiled boots and some duckswax to treat them with. But how often do you need to apply the wax? After every ride?
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TRS vs Beta - subjective feel differences?
in General Trials Talk
Posted
From people that have ridden both I am told that the TRS has very similar ride characteristics as a Gas Gas. They were both developed to suit Adam Raga and I believe both had involvement from Jordi Tarres, so the ride is similar.