Anyone know of a cheap substitute for the TR280 fuel cap until I get a proper replacement? Up here in the GNW ordering parts take a long while to get here. Kinda need one by Saturday. Sheesh thats two days away.
I am doing an EFI project and want to use the Vertigo throttle body and TPS. Its a good price. Before I go ahead and purchase one, I want to check fitment. Does anyone have any pictures of one? More the better.
I'd never use an MT43 for competition. Over here it is DOT so, maybe on a technical dual sport bike. But for competition, the Mich rules. D803GP and IRC are pretty good too.
And having done all that, how do you identify a "burble" ?
You dont. You look for a consistent and uniform spray pattern. If it is not consistent and uniform, it will manifest itself into a poor running engine.
OK are there any electronic/computer geeks out there who have an OSSA TR280? I tried to buy the cable from an ex distributor and they wanted $650CAD ($500USD) - no way. I cannot find one for sale in elsewhere. BTwice does not respond.
If I know the proper communications protocol, a cable could be made up for under $40CAD, which would include the connectors to the OSSA.
After hunting around I was able to find out some information:
Two of the four pins on the diagnostic connector are for power. The other two are for communications.
Looking at a picture of the BTWICE cable (from USB) it shows some electronics for protocol conversion, but I cannot quite see any chip numbers.
Looking at the factory cable. It has USB to DB9 (probably a RS232 converted), then DB9 to Kokusan Communcation Unit CS9701, then to the bike.
Unfortunately I am unable to get my hands on a cable, so I can scope out the hardware signal.
My best guess, from lowest to highest voltage is:
TTL 3V
TTL 5V
RS232
RS485
I strongly doubt RS232, because the factory cable already comes with a USB to DB9 converter, which is likely RS232. This then gets fed into the KCU. So that leaves TTL or RS485.
Sure wish I could get my hands on a cable to I could put a scope on it.
I am just finishing up my restoration of my TLR200 reflex. Since I am not using the stock air filter - I am using the carb and uni filter from mid-atlantic trials, I need some type of mud flap/guard for the area between the stock mud guard, down to the swing arm.
I am curious - have others encountered this? What did you do?
I suppose I could just get some rubber sheet and put it in with quick ties...
My SHowa shocks on my TLR200 have no damping. Although they are probably crappy shocks to begin with, I am trying to be cheap and not purchase Falcons or Rock Shocks.
I was able to tear them down, which is good news, I am just wondering if someone else has done this and what have you inspected, replaced and most importantly - where did you get the parts.
Can anyone point me in the direction of a thread or info on which newer carbs people replace on their TLR's. Mine is an 86 TLR 200.
My stock carb was a disaster. So I ordered the OKO from mid atlantic trials. I just liked the fact that they spent some time with it and made it work with the reflex.
Thanks guys. In a fit of beer induced haze, I pressed the "buy it now" and got the 5 pin chinese CDI and a coil. I'll report back how well (or if) it works out.
Mine has been ordered, and is supposedly "being shipped real soon". I am wondering how others owners/potential owners across the pond are getting along.
I just moved up a grade and things are a little tighter now.
One area where I need improvement is front wheel lifts with little or no approach. I have no problem with wheel lifts when I have a comfortable run in, but when there is little or no room, I just "cant get it up" (he he). I am also progressing well with double blip - but again - only when I have a nice amount of room for the approach.
Currently I dont use the clutch for front wheel lifts. I do the basic compress, blip, pull back. I have been told I need to add the clutch pop, to help with wheel lift in short approaches.
So two questions:
(1) can I get a couple of "simple old guy learning new trick" steps to incorporate the clutch pop without breaking me or the bike? Something like "well first, become friendly with going to high and use the clutch to briong it back down, use you current technique and bring it up high and..." that kind of stuff.
(2) I have a hard time covering the back brake. I am old, and my ankles are a mess and my foot just does not move that way any more. Can I simply replace the "tap the back brake to bring the front down" with a clutch pull? Or will this just turn into a bad habit which I will learn to regret later on?
thanks for the tips.
BTW - yes I have watched a lot trials wheelie videos and looked at a lot of threads, but none seem to answer my questions above.
Yeah, I got the Skynam name from the Winjall software used to program the ECU on one of the production Vertigo bikes. When I first looked I noticed right away it was not the Kokusan software as used on my old OSSA.
I guess the point is: it is not the same as the OSSA (or Monty) so any gains (or pains) from those ECUs are not likely to apply to the green machine.
For some reason I thought or read that the Vertigo used the same EFI system as the OSSA (Kokusan). However, I just discovered that Vertigo uses Skynam (AKA Sybele) EFI ( http://www.skynam.com/).
Injector and TPS - OEM part number
in Vertigo
Posted
I dont suppose anyone has the OEM part numbers for the injector and or TPS? Maybe a close up picture? Nothing is listed in the parts fiche.
FYI, I just want to use the vertigo injector & TPS on another EFI project and need the specs.
thanks