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He was just turning around, happens all the time
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Kinetic energy motor is where it's at
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I didn't know dust did not exist in the UK
But..... If dust is not in the UK then why are you cleaning the filter?
And what are you cleaning out of the airbox?
In my opinion, only snowmobiles and boat motors don't need air filters
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Ok start with:
Pull the caliper and push the piston all the way back into the caliper and clamp it so the piston stays all the way in
This pushes much of the the fluid back to the master and possibly the air as well
Note: if you can make the caliper and hose uphill to the master so the air travels back with the fluid then do it
Then bleed the master by pushing the pedal and then crack the banjo bolt, do it til there is no air coming out
Then start to bleed the caliper, you can bleed the banjo at the caliper
I have even removed the hose and held it up above the master so again the air goes uphill
Squeeze the hose end between your fingers and pump the lever til clear fluid Squeezes out
The quickly and carefully re attach the hose to the caliper
Burp it at the banjo and bleed the caliper til it works
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.?...?Your call, it is your bike
But the foam IS NOT the filter
All it does is hold the filter oil in suspension
The oil IS the filter
So you may as well not run a filter at all if its not oiled
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Increasing spring preload will not make the spring stiffer, it can only change ride height
The only way to make a spring stiffer is the increase the wire diameter or decrease the amount of coils
So, the only way to make a suspension "Harder" as you describe it to replace the spring with one of a higher rate
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If you carb has a drain screw and a small spigot on the bottom of the float bowl, then connect a clear hose the the spigot and run it up the side of the carb
Open the drain screw and see where the fuel level is
I have an issue with static setting of the tab on the float tang
It does not give you a specific reading of where the fuel is in the carb when it is fully assembled
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It's pretty much impossible for the idle screw to have no effect, it's mechanical and lifts the slide
And I have never seen an air screw leak, it's drawing air
How would you even know?
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Setting up all of that and editing it must have taken hours
Thanks for posting, was nice to watch
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Adding more spring to a spring cannot make it stiffer, actually there is no way whatsoever to make a spring stiffer, you can only increase the preloadIf you want more rate then it takes fewer coils and or thicker wire, this means replace the spring entirely
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Riding style?
I read a book that said "your bones and joints are the strongest things in your body"
Meaning keep your joints straight and maintain balance
Takes a ton of load of your muscles
But I have tennis elbow, not sure if you have this but not much helps except rest
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Well for the record
Great day snowmobiling yesterday, looks like a half meter of fresh soft snow on top of about 2 meters of hard snow, most of the places we rode had no tracks anywhere
Spent the day on a 2015 Ski Doo T3, 165 hp, 174 inch track with 3 inch paddles
Pictures don't do this sport justice, snow ain't all that bad!!
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If the caliper and brake fluid in particular are hot and then cooled quickly in water it shrinks and it is the opposite of hot fluid pushing up to the master as it expands, it kind of sucks fluid out of the master as it shrinks back so ye the lever can feel spongy when that happens
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That sounds like an unlikely cause unless it pushes the pads away from the disc and holds them there
I have never seen it happen
Brakes are pretty reliable as manufacturers can't afford the lawsuits
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What Lineaway said
Cold chisel always works
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IOS please
I have been addicted to trials fusion for a year and a half, I love trials games
Ready to try something new
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Just curious why you would tear the engine down looking for a noise
Then change only a top brg and a set of rings
Did you inspect and measure anything?, spin the crank, feel and listen to the main brgs etc
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Conspiracy?
If you recall the YZ 400 was produced to compete in the 250 2 stroke class not open class (so the comparison you pose is Moot) and it wasn't long before no one raced a 2 stroke anymore, I was a service rep for Yamaha when that happened and I can tell you that both the 2T and the 4 T had the same suspension technology
I cannot argue the point of expense, some of this does raise prices, but again, I bet people thought the world was ending with single shocks, and CDI and cartridge forks and Disc brakes and the list goes on
And for the record I like the character of a bike that is imperfect like our current carb bikes but I have no doubt they will get cleaner and smoother and have better fuel economy and last longer with EFI
I don't buy the more expensive thing when your engine lasts 2 or 3 times as long and you don't have to fix it
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Well Dad I realize now that you simply cannot grasp the long term value of progress, it's not an insult, I have met your kind before, at some point it probably happens to everyone
here in North America you can race a 250 2t in the 4t class but you wont win anything, you can watch it happen, the 4 strokes killed off the 2 strokes lap time wise even before EFI came about
But this is about EFI, how can You say
"It may be that EFI can never work properly on a 2T because of the residual fuel in the crankcase"
Wha?
EFI is just a cool precise electric carb, no Venturi just electronic fuel delivery, what has that got to do with residual fuel anywhere?
It may be true that it offers no competitive advantage right now, I will give you that, it will not make me ride much better
Let's move along, you can keep your carb but don't try and stop the future from happening
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I have ridden in 20-40cm of snow a few times
It's surprising how well a trials bike works in snow, it's a bit like sand, you stay on the gas and keep your weight back and be ready for a little slippy slidy
It's easier to be first or second and cut your own line as the tire groove is sketchy
Always wanted to ride on hard crust, it's hard to find but ive done it on atv's and dirt bikes and it's fun as heck
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You changed the crank seals based on an air screw setting alone?
I hate to say it but that's a terrible mis diagnosis of a simple thing
It's adjustable, not fixed for a reason, wherever the screw is when the bike runs well is correct
If it cannot be adjusted or requires a setting far from normal then the first thing is to change the pilot or clean the carb
Engine tear down is strikingly odd
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That's how it feels on a trials bicycle too
It's like the front tire is stuck to the ground hard enough that you can use that to lever against
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LOL as soon as you get a 1 your level of difficulty increases because you have less fingers to control the bike with
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Self minding is hard cuz you have to hold one hand up in the air and count the dabs
I always end in a 5 for some reason
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I'm going to argue that point, the modern big power MX bikes have benefitted greatly from EFI, they forced major carb developement and in the end eclipsed their potential and carbs became a pain in the ass, I bet there is not one person in the pits that wishes they had a carb back, those engines require very precise fuel mapping and carbs just can't do it with 3 circuits
EFI did wonders for these bikes just like it did wonders for street bikes and ATVs and Snowmobiles and and and
I can see a point where a fellow may not trust a small manufacturer like Ossa for example to not make diagnostic equipment available but there is no denying that EFI improves fueling and therefore improves everything else that comes after it like engine life and power quality etc
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