I think they have been discontinued as I can't find them anywhere, even manufacturers site. If thats true, I'm sure it's because someone devised a simpler workaround, but I'm at a loss as only just getting into this sport.
Maybe the fast throttle is a good thing if it's limitable. I'll have a ponder.
Lowside, as I posted previously, I have one that is new/unused for $40 AUD if you decide that is what you want. I also have a Two or Three Trial used slow black tube for $10 AUD. So $50 AUD + Postage from Australia to wherever, just saying.
When the stop is removed, does these revert to fast action, or slow? The white tube suggests they are fast action, so I'm not sure about fitting one. As a beginner I'd benefit and so would my lad, as we've had incidents of whisky throttle and whilst I'm OK, it knocked his confidence a bit.
Can't find any info outside of what you posted and another store in Europe. I thought maybe it would say on the box or something.
Cheers
Don't know for certain but Domino would be silly to confuse us between white/black tubes on their limited throttle, so my guess is "fast throttle".
Buy their "limited" throttle and their "black" tube and you've got all bases covered in my opinion.
Hello, can anyone please tell me the correct wheelbase measurement for a Fantic 200 twin shock. I need to check to see if a frame has stretched. Thanks
Hi, should the rear axle have a sleeve/spacer inside the hub between the wheel bearings and if so are the available any where or does any on know the size?
Parts manual images attached for 1974 MAR mk2, don't know dimensions other than ridiculous 12mm internal diameter.
Looking at the parts manual you need spacer tube #106659 and two aligning spacers #105604 for the rear wheel.
Google those part numbers and see if anything pops up, best of luck.
I have a 2022 GasGas TXT Racing 300 and I am leaking air from the wheel lock on my front tire. I loosened the lock, cleaned it and re-inflated and it still leaks. Any suggestions?
You can't be serious with a question like that, surely?
Noticed most of the handle bars available are fat in the middle and wont fit my old style clamps Hmmm
Yes, modern Trials bike bars are fat in the middle (28.6mm) and don't have or need a cross brace.
I just searched your previous posts and see you're possibly looking for bars for a Sherpa T, you need to look at 7/8" (22.2mm) bars for these older bikes that have standard top triple clamp. Many different brands out there and they're all good as far as I'm concerned but, if you're looking at the Renthal website then look for 7/8" Trials bars, 742(4.5"), 660(5.0"), 735(5.5"), 768(6.0"). They all come with a cross brace.
Hi frank , I do not know Vancouver seller ,,, there is a major used montesa dealer in Oregon , state , and he selling a cota 123 parts engine & others , listed ebay , cheers , Larry
You're on the money there Larry, maybe cyclesavant? David Snyder perhaps or similar. Pretty sure he was out of Oregon.
i recently bought a fantic 200 as restoration project but am having a hard time finding parts. Does anyone have any recomendations?
There's no one-stop shop for anything for old bikes unfortunately, got to search the world, these are some sites I've found over the years for Fantic stuff,
Thanks @fourex That’s what I’ve just started to do. I’m a bit concerned about keeping it square - but I’ll see how I get on 🙂
Just clamp a bolt of the appropriate size in your vice, set it up so just 1 mm or so of sleeve protrudes past the end of that bolt and slowly hand file, that's what I did from memory.
I have bought a pair of Betor Gas Aluminum Trial shocks and found the bush a little too wide to fit in my frame.
The bush feels like it’s in a spherical bearing so I’m not sure if they press out?
I emailed Betor and I’m not sure they knew what I was asking….
It needs to be just 2mm narrower - so I could grind it down in situ, but if it comes out I’d prefer to do that.
Stephen
I had the same issue with a pair of Magical shocks I bought years ago for my Fantic twinshock, they were 24mm spherical where I really just needed 21mm.
I just ground 1.5mm off each end of the sleeve, easy enough and worked a treat.
Both 21mm and 24mm are common sleeve widths. Also, I think Magicals are glorified Betors, or something like that.
I think they had points originally, I've got nothing on the ignition side of the crank so refitting an electronic ignition would make more sense. Thanks for the info.
Colin, my '74 MAR mk2 has electronic ignition standard, hence the question of others why they went to points in '75. Check out the Vape site, it looks like they can solve your problems, if not others will chime in.
Yes, I believe it's the suffix, such as AS/BD/BS/CD/FD/RD that denotes whether it's got an air screw or fuel screw. Don't know which is what, other than BS being fuel screw.
As far as "turps" is concerned, I'd stick with the original PHBH 26 BS, because we at least know what the original jetting specs were, and one can make minor changes from there if one doesn't like those settings.
Any recommendations for my 199B Sherpa? Just how important are the shocks in trials? Im an old slow fat guy..
Ask this question in Bultaco Forum to get best answers.
You will need a slender shock to avoid chain interference or at least a shock that can be inverted. What appear to be 1980's Gas Girlings in your original post in "Bultaco" have an overall spring diameter of roughly 50mm, some shocks such as magicals are 56/57mm. Falcon shocks are slender at 50/51mm, do some more research.
New SWM 350 Jumbo owner - a few questions...
in SWM
Posted
This is info from the 1980's, pretty sure MJ was 100.
Carb Jetting.pdf
Engine Oil.pdf