So I bought and used this to remove the lower bearing race and it came off very easily. I added some 300mm M10 threaded bar (7.99 from screwfix too) and it worked perfectly. I'm going to use it to press (pull) the new bearing on as well, hopefully.
The way I have always removed the lower bearing is to angle/disc grind a flat on the bearing. Obviously being careful not to damage the shaft or the clamps. As the bearing becomes thin a colour line starts to show so start being extra careful. When you have it thin enough tap it with a hammer and the bearing will usually come off. Very quick and easy.
In this case, I want to preserve the lower dust cover if possible so there's no way of grinding it off without ruining it.
The 16mm socket is a red herring as the stem is a press fit like all the others so I'll have to take it somewhere to press it out.
Sorry, I know this is boring and probably been covered before but what's the best method for a home attempt at removing the lower steering bearing from the stem?
It looks like you should/could use a 16mm hex to remove the stem from the bottom yoke and in the processing push the bearing off?
I'm trying to do this without mullering the bottom dust cover if possible. Already done the races and have removed the outer cage and roller pins from the bottom bearing. Just need to remove the inner race and I prefer technique over blunt force if possible.
Thanks al orange, you have a point. If you think about something long enough, you will find an excuse other than your own lack of talent 🙂
We've all been there. I do like to make sure my bike is well up together, as then I know the issue is with me. But a little play in the linkage won't be a big issue. However, tyre edge in slippery conditions makes a huge difference. More so when we're learning as we rely on the tyre's performance more to make up for lack of skill. I know I do!
I would agree with the weight transfer theory Baldilocks. But I was thinking more about the shock working being delayed on acceleration while it waits for the play to be soaked up. I did have a problem with it spinning up before, but it might have been the worn tyre. The edges of the blocks are all worn in one direction. I'll just have to put up with it for now. I'm sure the bike is better than me anyway.
In theory, it could impact traction but the effect will be negligible compared to tyre condition, tyre pressure, clutch/throttle control, and use of body weight, or even sag/spring settings, rebound setting etc. So no, it's not what is causing you to spin up.
Bike of that age - I'd expect the binding to be caused by old seals and/or corosion in the grooves the seals sit it.
My 01 was terrible for it and it took some effort to really clean out the grooves. Even when it looked clean there was still loads of crud to be removed. Might be worth a caliper rebuild and an ultrasonic clean or even replace the caliper.
I've got these in XXL and have very similar sized biceps although my forearms are not massive. The sizing is very accurate. Also, they are cheap in that link above. I think I paid £50 for mine and although that seems very expensive, I'd buy them again tomorrow if I had to. I wear them every ride and have given them some good knocks. I particularly like the hard plastic cups because it saves you from rocks nicely.
You don't notice they are on when wearing them. After a few rides, they will need washing as the cuff gets a bit looser. But once washed, they spring back to shape. I find a bit of water/sweat will hold the silicone strip to the arm. The only time they have slipped down was when completely dry and stretched from being worn too many times.
New to this forum and am looking for any info on jetting for my 250 freeride 2016 It’s has been set to the US spec including jets and needle position 4th clip 122MJ & 48PJ is that what you did ? I appreciate your post was a while ago but any info would be helpful. It has always bogged a bit off idle but while cleaning out the carb thought I’d check ? Very happy with the bike for general byways and the odd LDT been reliability too ! Cheers
I would put the settings back to whatever they are in the manual for your altitude and temperature range first. Then, go one richer on the pilot and main if needed. I would consider a richer needle diameter too. That has made the most difference to the way mine rides.
I think (but just from memory) I'm on 48pj, JJF Needle, Clip 4, 128mj. But I've got a drilled air canister and it might be a touch rich at the top now.
I found fitting the richer needle makes the most difference and it pulls nice and cleanly under load but will always ring-ding-ding when coasting with clutch in (downhill etc.)
I'd say mine runs as well as it can but it is down on power at the moment. I hope this is due to it needing a piston and not the jetting because it runs nicely otherwise.
Just make sure whoever you go with will actually teach you something and not just get you riding sections. I've had a number of "training days" and yet have learned very little in terms of technique. The most I've gotten out of them is riding sections that are more intimidating and therefore learning more about what the bike will do. Which obviously is a good thing but I'd say there is a distinct lack of real instructors around. I've picked up the odd tip but I want someone who will pick up the smaller details about body position and traction etc.
If it's got a kick start and a lithium, I would recommend kicking it for the first start of the day as that will warm the battery up and also reduce wear/load on the starter mechanism for that start, which will be the one that take most umph.
Yes, been using it for years and it's very popular in the LDT world. Wouldn't use anything else on my enduro or LDT bike. Not relevant for modern trials bikes but could be used nicely on older bikes with tubed rears.
I'm guessing it's a lithium battery? If so, there's no need for a trickle charger. They will hold charge for months at a time no problems. Better to give them a full charge before storage than to trickle charge them.
What you're trying to do is a double blip. A zap is more or less a wheelie and let the rear wheel hit the obstacle and drive up.
The clutch is used in a double blip to add more power. If you are clearing logs of the size in your video, you don't need the clutch. Perhaps using a bigger log would help you. Then you might/could use the clutch to lift the front and then use it again to lift the rear wheel onto the log.
Interesting. Maybe it's the other way around in France but in pretty much the whole English speaking trials world (UK, USA, Canada, AUS at least), the definition of a "zap" is the use of the clutch to deliver a burst of power. In the case of a "jap zap" (often abbreviated to "zap") the zap is used specifically to attain rear wheel lift (generally in order to land the rear wheel on top or very near the top of the obstacle), in direct contrast to a double blip which (or a roll up) which relies on driving the rear wheel into the obstacle. It gets confusing because you can get rear wheel lift without the clutch - hence the difference between a double blip and a zap.
Personally, I think there's more confusion between a double blip and a roll up as there is pretty much nothing a double blip can achieve that a roll up doesn't, but the double blip is more controlled and is used more easily when there is little run up or momentum. I prefer to think of a double blip as having two distinct and obvious blips - one to lift and then one to drive. Whereas, even in the Ryan Young video above, I'd call that a roll-up as there is a smooth delivery of continuous momentum. I believe he uses the two terms interchangeably.
I'm not entirely sure why this issue is confusing or contentious but if it helps create useful and clear training videos then that's a good thing!
That's really useful, thanks. I too have struggled to get any decent information on the zap. I can't do them very well at all.
In addition to the clutch timing, I think your video also shows something equally important, which is you getting off the throttle - I think that's the bit I struggle with.
I've just watched the BVM footage from the event. I'm sure there's a high degree of organisation and logistics involved but why on earth didn't they re-schedule it? Or it that just not done for GB events? Looks like a waste of time and effort for all involved. Sure, it's meant to be tough but I can't imagine anyone either riding, spectating, or observing enjoyed it in any way. Or is that not the point?
Pretty sure there was a statement before the trial saying that the six top guys couldn't manage to do both the British and the World (due to travel restrictions/quarantine etc.) so chose to focus on Trial GP.
I had fond memories of my knackered 2001 Rev 3 which I replaced with a 2019 TRS RR. Then the other day I had a go on a mates knackered 2006 Rev 3 and all fond memories evaporated.
I'm sure old bikes are just as competitive in the right hands but the feel and pleasure of riding a newer bike is astounding in comparison. People will say "a good rider on an old bike..." Etc. But for a novice, you will be more comfortable on a newer bike.
For your budget, I'd try and get as new/good condition Evo.
About the only things I'd recommend is to put a tube on the carb overflow (under the float bowl) and if you can be bothered, grease the electrical connections.
I've got a 9t front sprocket which is quite common. Started with a slow throttle but have gone back to standard (but use the wet map mostly).
Seems like apart from CDIs, these bikes don't really need anything.
The sort of hill that is going to be 3rd Gear + and lots of throttle and should be fairly easy but requires momentum, but then there's a bump/rock/log/hollow etc. somewhere where you'd want to be at maximum speed.
I can see two options, of which the second seems more appropriate but what do you think?
1. Flat out, hit the obstacle as hard as you dare and get kicked or launched and then try to get hard on the throttle on landing. This seems to really kill forward momentum and the bigger the kick, the worse the stall. But it seems the obvious option because... Flat out.
Or
2. Approach the kicker and roll off to just clear it without getting airborne and then try to sit into the bike and start accelerating from a near stop on the other side of the obstacle. Runs the risk of simply not having enough momentum to finish the climb but seems more elegant and likely to succeed.
As with everything, there's a millions variables but keeping it simple, what is the general approach and specific tips for this situation?
I've used this on my enduro and trials bikes for years. Enduro bikes pick up way more mud than the trials bike.
Power wash off the worst of the mud. Spray this on. Leave it as long as you have patience (unload the van, wash your boots etc.) Then rinse it off. Leaves the bike spotless with no brushing or any other effort. I sometimes use my hand to rub the plastics where the mud has been ground in but that's it.
Steering head bearing replacement
in TRS
Posted
So I bought and used this to remove the lower bearing race and it came off very easily. I added some 300mm M10 threaded bar (7.99 from screwfix too) and it worked perfectly. I'm going to use it to press (pull) the new bearing on as well, hopefully.
Screwfix bearing puller