Well, a new float and needle jet seems to have fixed it. Had it running for 20 mins, stopped it a few times and restarted it first kick without the need for plunger tickling. Rode it 2 miles on the road. But I will look at a heat shield.
Thanks for your help guys.
PS . It was exceptionally hot the day of the event 28 degrees, well, hot for the UK.
OK FOLKS IVE GOT A 2022 TRS ONE R. IVE DONE THREE OIL CHANGES ON HER AND EACH TIME SMALL GLOBULES OF SOMETHING COME OUT TOWARDS THE END OF THE DRAINING ON TOP OF THE OIL.
NOW IM WELL AWARE OF THE ISSUES OF SEALS IN THE WATER PUMP AND THE WEEP HOLE IN THE CASING.
NOW ONCE ALL THE OIL AND THE GLOBULES ARE IN THE CONTAINER THEY DISAPPEAR. IVE EMPTIED THE OIL INTO A FLATTER LONGER TRAY TO GET A BETTER LOOK. NO SIGN OF THE GLOBULES.
IVE THEN INTRODUCED A SMALL AMOUNT OF WATER AND SEPARATELY COOLANT INTO THE SAME OIL. THEY INSTANTLY DO WHAT YOU WOULD EXPECT , THEY FORM SMALL GLOBULES IN THE OIL.
SO THIS WOULD INDICATE THAT WHATEVER IT IS COMING OUT OF THE GEARBOX ISN'T WATER (WHICH SHOULDN'T BE THERE ANYWAY) OR COOLANT.
THE OIL IS A WELL KNOWN BRAND OF 75wGEAR OIL.
HAS ANYONE EXPERIENCED THIS , OR CAN THINK OF A CAUSE.
IM GOING TO CHANGE THE SEALS AS A PRECAUTION.
THE CLUTCH WORKS PERFECTLY.
CONFUSED.
JUST TRIED TO UPLOAD A VIDEO BUT ITS TO BIG, SHAME AS IT SHOWS IT PERFECTLY.
On my 2016, there is a connector under the fender near the air box that connects the electronic petcock and the fan. If you are doing anything in that area it is easy to disturb that connector. It can look connected but is not. I have to be very careful to push it together firmly. I have had the petcock and fan not work in the past due to this situation.
Thanks. This is my fourth 4T and the first job I do is split all the connectors, clean them, reattach and secure them. Quite a poor design, they’re all loose and just flapping about 👍🏻
Hi everyone, I have a 2018 Beta Evo 4T. The bike has been unused for 8/9 months. I ran it today and found that the fan didn’t kick in. I tried to move the fan by hand but it was very stiff. I put some penetrating fluid in to try and release what I thought was a seized bearing. I managed to get it to moving but when the engine was run up to operating temperature the fan didn’t kick in. I checked and cleaned all the connection, all were fine. Can someone advise me, is there a way to check the fan independently or by bypassing the thermostat. I’m pretty sure the fan motor has gone but would like to check before committing to a new one. Thank you.
IVE JUST REBUILT A 1964 TIGER CUB AND ITS HAD THE ALTERATION TO THE FRAME WHERE A MILLER CYLINDRICAL OIL TANK IS FITTED. I KNOW THE TIGER IS A WET SUMP ENGINE BUT CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW MUCH OIL GOES IN THE TANK. A SET AMOUNT OR FULL. THANKS
IM CURRENTLY REFRESHING THE ENGINE ON A MATES 325 BEAMISH. IVE SPOKEN WITH THE VERY HELPFUL STEVE PITT AT THE BEAMISH OWNERS CLUB ABOUT SOURCING AN 81.00mm PISTON. I KNOW THERE ARENT ANY AT THE MOMENT, BUT THE OLD ADAGE SAYS IF YOU DONT ASK…………!! HAS ANYONE GOT AN 81.00mm PISTON SAT IN A WORKSHOP DRAWER THEY BOUGHT YEARS AGO , JUST IN CASE AND NO LONGER NEED, OR AS AN ALTERNATIVE I COULD MAKE A SET OF 80.50mm PISTON RINGS WORK ON THE EXISTING PISTON SHORT TERM. IM ALSO A BIT CONFUSED AT THE OPTION OF THREE DIFFERENT BASE GASKETS THICKNESSES AVAILABLE FOR THAT MODEL. HOW DO I DETERMINE WHAT THICKNESS I NEED.
THE ENGINE IM WORKING ON HAS THE 250 HEAD ON IT WITH THE APPROVED HEAD GASKET/SPACER THAT CORRECTS THE COMPRESSION RATIO.
THANKS EVERYONE, FIRST TIME IVE WORKED ON A SUZUKI.LOTS OF SPANISH AND FANTICS BUT NOT A BEAMISH 🙄
I've has a couple, including a Factory. 250 a bit underpowered, 300 best buy, but a tad high geared for some, so worth trying a 9t on the front. Better grip in wet than 4RT IMHO. Exhaust needs to be well sealed & there is a bit of a hot spot near your leg. Factory model much smoother with a standard tailpipe. Airbox works well, much better than other popular 4 stroke. Get hold of a Jim Austermuhle airbox kit & it will be spot on. Side stand improved by fitting a Gas Gas one.
Usual Beta good quality parts. Lots shared with the ever popular 2 stroke. Fabulous cross country tool & a great clubman bike. As with any used trials bike, it has to have been well looked after.
Hi, just read your post. The side stands are poor. Which year Gas Gas stand did you use. Is it only the stand or stand and mounting plate.
Evening all. I'm just trying to sort out my aluminium sherpa fuel tank and wonder where I can get some decals for it. I see inmotion do sticker but they won't be any good because after its painted I'd like to lacquer over the decal. so can anyone help?
That’s why prices are higher, as you say you couldn’t find one. They don’t come up for sale as often, as there are tons of 250,s and 300,s. The 200 has always been acclaimed as one of the best Clubman bikes you can buy. People new to the sport often get hung up about cc’s often opting for 300’s, having their arms yanked out of their sockets and then selling them. If your able go to somewhere like Inch Perfect Trials where you can try out the models you fancy. Other dealers are available.
Top shock mount location moved down and forwards to where yours are during model 49.
Brake pedal design changed during model 49. Can't see yours.
Frame tubes under engine went from single middle tube to a smaller tube each side during model 49.
Outer engine casings design changed to your type during model 49. This co-incided with the frame tube change under the engine. This change was somewhere around number 2650. I don't have the book with me at the moment with the number in it to refer to.
Rear hub changed during model 49. Can't see yours well enough to say which one yours is.
Your lack of frame tubes under the engine is non-standard but is a common mod.
The book " Historia de la Sherpa T" by Francois Stauffacher is a good reference book for Sherpa T identification
Thanks feetupfun.
Sent images of the hub and rear brake.
As can be seen from the photo above, the timings marks are quite a way off. So the newly rewound stator was refitted and timed correctly. The company that performed the rewind did ring me after undertaking an initial assessment of the stator and said the Ohms reading was low.
The pick up unit is now properly secure. I’ve drained the tank and carb and refilled with 70:1 fully synthetic two stroke oil and Shell V Power 99 RON fuel. I’ve also fitted an Iridium spark plug.
Well, she stated first kick and ticks over very evenly. I ran it up to operating temperature and during the fifteen minute run, this was static on a stand, it only made possibly two detonation ‘ tings’ that I noticed,
The orange wire at the end of that semi-circular valley looks to have been rubbed by the flywheel, and possibly shorting out.
.
Hi, yes it is. I’ve sent it off to be rewound and reconditioned. The company rang me after making an initial assessment of the stator and said the ohms reading was well down and believed it would have failed in the not to distant future. So for £66, including returned postage and the fact I won’t be pushing it back to the car park, money well spent I’d say. 😄
Ive removed the flywheel and found that the pick up sensor on the stator that’s held in place by two Philips screws was loose and could be moved about 1.5 mm when you applied pressure. So when the engines ticking over it’s going to be dancing around. Also noted that the timing was out, to far advanced.
As a belt and braces I’ve sent the stator off to be rewound while I’m at this stage as some of the solder looked iffy and some wires were frayed. Also it’s had a new blue Ducati coil fitted, so this work so guarantee I don’t end up pushing her back over the moors when it packs up at the furthest point from the car park.
Hope to have it back in 7 to 10 days I’ll report back when I’ve got her running. See if it’s cured it.
I only use gasoline with high octane ARAL Ultimate with 102 ROZ, I believe BP Ultimate has the same properties.
This will help at first if the engine gets hot and in general.
Next tipp: Do you have changed the compression using a too thin head gasket or is the piston head differently shaped, compared with a NOS piston.
Tipp #03: Is the ignition proper set up and not too far from before TDC?
Tipp #04: Go a bit richer in your carb set up what kind if slide with what cutaway are you using? Dell'Ortos have cutaways from 0, 15, 20, 30, 40, 45, 50 up to 60 depending the model as more cutaway as leaner is the complete set up and this effects the complete carburator from idle screw, idele jet, needle, slide position to main jet.
Thanks pschrauber.
Ive read your Bultaco comments over the years.
There’s a few things there that I can try.
I’ve swapped the normal NGK plug for the Iridium alternative and the normal fuel for Shell V Power that’s 99 RON. Not sure BP is a higher octane in the UK but I will check.
The change of plug snd fuel have significantly reduced the ‘knock ‘.
I’ve used a bore scope camera and inspected the barrel. No sign of carbon build up, or damage to the piston edge.
TRIUMPH TIGER CUB AMAL PREMIER CARB SETTINGS.
in Pre-65 Bikes
Posted · Edited by chappo
Well, a new float and needle jet seems to have fixed it. Had it running for 20 mins, stopped it a few times and restarted it first kick without the need for plunger tickling. Rode it 2 miles on the road. But I will look at a heat shield.
Thanks for your help guys.
PS . It was exceptionally hot the day of the event 28 degrees, well, hot for the UK.