Given that you could have paid about four and a half thousand pounds for a Yamaha a quarter of a century ago you seem to be getting an adequately good deal
It's hardly worth waiting for the 2021 stickers, for that's all the likely difference.
I didnt realise RG trial had decided to leave the sport, they were helping Billy Green, Frances Moret and Gabriel Marcelli. So where are these three going this year ?
Maybe need an 80cc class next to get to 50 entries.....
Or make the whole thing electric in 2022 . Bikes not as capable so severity will have to reduce and we would be ahead of other sports from an environmental point of view?
You have a point but I suspect it may be hard to convince an environmentalist of the benefit of an electric bike when it is being transported round the world in a van twice the size of the typical house we would provide for the elderly. Balanced against a handful of litres used in a petrol bike at an event there would be little demonstrable benefit.
Well, well, I've spent fifty years thinking getting the holeshot meant being first off the grid. But the first corner discussion does remind me of the best worst start I ever saw which was at the Norman Scramble at Beauval some years ago. A substantial entry shot off and Arthur Browning, for some reason, didn't get away and was left what seemed half the very long start straight behind. I've no idea what speed he attained but he passed the entire field and outbraked the lot in to the first corner whence he led the race.
I had a similar problem with an RL Suzuki, which had rather thin sliders, but the fork jammed completely (the Mamore Road, not to mention the sections, was fairly interesting with a solid front end?). I can't recall exactly what they did but a local machine shop were able to sort it and it lasted for years thereafter.
Sounds like it could be a sticking piston. The previous owner may have released the brake pressure to hide a binding brake or just got it wrong when trying to fix it. Remove the pads and make sure that both pistons are moving but beware of them coming out. They may need cleaned but there are plenty youtube videos on how to do this. Refit and pump up (again plenty videos on bleeding brakes) whereupon all should be centralised.
Exactly. A pal had an '05 which he sold at 12 years old still with the original plug in it and still running like a watch. Worth checking the valve clearances but I'd go no further if there's no symptoms.
The bit under the tank is comprised of a perforated tube with packing round it. Cleaning and repacking is well worth doing. Cut a window in the back of the box so the repair doesn't show.
If your need is purely to get an MoT then just take the lights off altogether. If you really need to use lights you can fit a diode in to the circuit to restrict voltage. I'm assuming the bike is six volt but can't remember what the diode we used to fit back in the day was called. The twelve volt version was universally known as a zener diode, though presumably a proprietary name, and possibly available in various voltages. The alternative was to fit twentyfour volt bulbs.
No doubt technology has moved on and someone will be able to suggest a more modern alternative.
The proportion of ethanol in fuel depends on location, some Shell and Esso fuels have no ethanol content...yet?♀️! Whilst in other parts of UK there is at least 5% ethanol present. There will be issues when 10% ethanol is used and there is a list of vehicles that will not be able to use this particular fuel, but they may be able to use the super type of fuel eg V-Power etc. All info available on Google look for Octane magazine. Old aluminium tanks may be brittle and may crack when subject to regular use...usually around any mountings and areas of chafing. Aspen 4 professional will be your best bet but its about £20 per 5 litres or £6 a litre...at least it is where I buy it but on e-bay its £33+ and then p&p!!! There are ways to isolate the ethanol shown on youtube...but I am not convinced...yet?♂️??
The Montesa tanks were prone to cracking at the rear weld back in the day, I don't suppose age will have improved the chances.
What you say is true, done properly there is normally no problem as excess compounds tend to stay in place. The Hylomar sets to a very rigid state and any excess breaks off sending hard bits in to circulation. No great problem on a two-stroke as they either get chewed up in the transmission or disappear out the exhaust. Perhaps it's now packaged in a tube with a dispenser that enables a thin bead to be deployed but thirty years ago it was like dealing with toothpaste?
Not relevant to the Villiers, but just in case anyone is tempted to use the above mentioned Blue Hylomar elsewhere. Many years ago it seemed to be the answer to the head gasket problem on my Guzzi Monza and indeed it sealed well. Then I read about a Honda that had died because excess Hylomar had broken off and choked the oil filter. I checked and mine was heading that way so I used it up on things where this would not be an issue.
NIH study showed that Covid-19 survives on cardboard for up to 24 hours, on plastic (eg punch cards in this context) up to three days. Don't be too optimistic, the common cold is a covid virus apparently and they've been trying, and failing, to find a vaccine for that for a very long time indeed.
You are correct in as much as just about every British manufacturer had a trials model in their range at some point, albeit not much more than a road bike with a high exhaust etc. Enduro events were being run in the USA in at least the 1940s, but, like trials, evolved and became what we knew in the 1970s.
I thoroughly recommend "The Golden Age of Enduros" by Piet W Boonstra.
It is possible that the old one had been shortened during its life so it's not foolproof to uses the same number of links. Best to do as Cleanorbust suggests.
It's going back forty years right enough but I don't recall any tools beyond a flywheel puller and a C15 gear pinion to lock the primary drive. The nearest I had to a splitting tool was a soft-faced hammer. All done with the assistance of a two page article in TMX News. Them wis the days?
Obviously no trials for the last month and maybe months to come so what is the best way to store your bike if your unable to get out and start it for long periods of time. And especially on fuel injected models that its hard to empty fuel from.
My feeling is that we won't be back in action for a very long time - well beyond the period that fuel stabiliser is claimed to work. I can't entertain stripping the road bike down so will just have to hope the stabiliser does the job there. However, I did spend ten minutes or so removing all traces of petrol from the tank and injection system on the 4RT. It was not a difficult job.
I was thinking which manufacturer has the best attention to detail when assembling steering head, swingarm and linkage bearings?
When I’ve had new enduro bikes in the past I’ve always stripped and greased them from new as nearly all (KTMs) came with barely any grease in these bearings which in turn means short service life and replacement parts.
I was just wondering out of Beta or Vertigo, who’s bikes come best prepped from the factory?
When TRS first appeared there was a video of the factory showing lots of grease being applied, for what that's worth. Accessing the areas you mention on a new and therefore clean bike in order to check, and to grease all the threads you can get at, should not take long, as you will know from previous experience. It's what I would do with any make.
I think Nigel is a bit optimistic; I doubt there is the profit margin on a trials bike for a dealer to be to be stripping it to check.
No spark.
in Beta
Posted
It was the trigger coils on mine.