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sparky8181

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Posts posted by sparky8181
 
 
  1. 10 hours ago, cleanorbust said:

    Have you considered retarding the ignition to cool down the lively response the bike has at the moment? My Scorpa, with Sherco motor, has the ignition backed off a bit which makes it much better for controlled slow riding. Simply achieved (and at no cost) by slackening the backplate bolts behind the flywheel, rotating the plate a touch and clamping it up again. Also you can experiment with different degrees of adjustment to get the feel you want. There is advice on this on the net, from memory the Sherco instructions on Ryan Young's website show this.

    Never heard of this before, will have a look

  2. Hi,

     

    Just purchased a 2016 250 Sherco and was planning on fitting the flywheel weight, I had a 200 gasgas before that was lovely and smooth and the sherco seems a bit lively for me on the slow stuff, have tried the slow action throttle but I didn't think it made much difference.

     

    My question is...how hard is it to fit a flywheel weight? And is there a guide anywhere that anyone knows of?

     

    I've been told that I need to also buy the flywheel puller, is there anything else that I will need to get the job done?

     

    Thanks

    Sparky

  3. Also forgot to mention, when I open the bleed nipple nothing comes out, even when pulling the lever maybe a tiny drop but that is it, the fluid level in the master cylinder doesn't drop, this means there's a blockage right? But where is it likely to be and how can I sort it?

  4. if it is crud at the back of the master cylinder how do I go about cleaning it?

    And dadof2, you're quite right to question my mechanical ability (or lack of it lol) but the problem was there before I took anything apart, and I'm pretty sure everything went back as it should have done....or at least I didn't have any bits left over at the end :-)

  5. Had another mess with it last night and found the following...

    Piston was stuck in, spring was ok and when I freed it up it now appears to be going in and out as it should, but still not working.

    Removed the cover and stuck a needle through the 2 small holes in the bottom, didn't seem blocked and with the needle in the hole I could feel the piston scraping on the needle when it moved in and out.

    With cover removed the is no change in fluid level when pulling lever & no squirting etc

  6. Checked and reservoir & its full, any other ideas lads?

    I'm still think its something to do with the piston not pushing out enough to engage/disengage the plates, can anyone tell me how much it's supposed to move when you pull the lever?

    Also on gas gas Jim video about clutch pack it says that after you have removed the bolts on the casing you can remover the cover by pulling the clutch lever which inturn pushes the piston out forcing the casing apart, well when I did this nothing happened, I had to manually prise it apart to remover the casing, this is what is making me think it's some to do with that piston.

  7. No I never bothered measuring it as I thought the strip & clean would sort it.

    Surely if that was the problem it would of shown signs previously, not just gone from working perfect to not working at all?

  8. Stripped it all down today, cleaned all plates and reassembled with new oil and still doing same thing, clutch just isn't working at all when I pull the lever.

    Any other ideas what it could be lads? It was fine last time bike was used and had been put away for ages, now just doesn't work, seems strange.

    Can anyone tell me how much the piston is meant to pop out when you pull the lever? I'm wondering if it something to do with that? When I pulled to clutch lever with the clutch casing off it moved about 5mm ish, is that about right?

    Thanks

  9. Hi lads,

    Got my bike out today for first time in ages and there is a problem with the clutch, basically when I pull the leaver nothing happens. If its in gear and I pull it in the wheel is still locked, and if I have it running and knock it into gear it just goes but the clutch still doesn't work, tried going through all gears and rocking it etc to free it up but nothing. Have given it a little ride (best I can in garden) but still won't work.

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks

  10. TRIAL MODEL CHASSIS NUMBERS

    1993~2003

    Example: VTRGG 2800 0200 9955

    VTR = International manufacturers code. VTR = GasGas

    GG = Trial model (Company code to identify model EC = Enduro & MX, FS = Four Stroke, WD = Quads)

    2800 = 280 model, year 2000

    0200:

    02 = Manufacture month. (2ND month) February.

    00 = Year of manufacture 2000.

    9955 = sequential chassis number (9,955th built in this year.)

    2004 and newer (after July 2003)

    Example: VTRGG 3002 D093 9955

    VTR = International manufacturers code. VTR = GasGas

    GG = Trial model (Company code to identify model EC = Enduro & MX, FS = Four Stroke, WD = Quads)

    3002:

    30 = 300 model.

    02 = (02 = year of Europe homogulation N/A USA)

    D093:

    D = 2003 ALPHA CODE FOR MODEL YEAR.

    09 = Manufacture month (9TH month) September.

    3 = Year of manufacture 2003.

    9955 = sequential chassis number. (9,955th built in this year.)

    “Alpha” model year codes Model engine size codes

    D = 2003 J = 2008 12 = 125cc

    E = 2004 K = 2009 20 = 200 model (175cc)

    F = 2005 L = 2010 25 = 250cc

    G = 2006 M = 2011 28 = 280 model (272cc)

    H = 2007 N = 2012 30 = 300cc

    • Like 1
  11. Quick update,

    Took the bike to a mates house for him to have a look at, and whilst looking under the tank I noticed that I had stuck the wrong connector onto the coil, after swapping this over the spark returned and the bike fired up :D :D

    Obviously this has not always been wrong as it would never have started but I must have stuck it back wrong after checking all the connections, still don't know what the problem was to start with but at least its seems to be sorted (or at least the bike runs).

    Went out last night for a couple of hours and it was fine

    Thanks for your help fellas, and it it stops again I know where to come :thumbup:

  12. So today I disconnected kill switch & checked all connections under tank, still nothing there.

    I took the cover of the flywheel and it was a little bit of moisture there but nothing serious, am I right in thinking I need a special tool to remove the fly wheel? And also should there be a rubber gasket between the cover as mine didn't have one?

    Not sure if this has any relevance but 2 weeks ago I dropped it in a stream and it wouldn't start after, tried for ages but it just wouldn't go, so started the walk of shame back to the van and got half way there and was so bloody knackered pushing it up hill that I tried it again and after several kicks I got it going and it was fine all day after that, I then got it home washed it, and started it again a couple of times without any trouble so I figured this wasn't a problem.

    2 weeks later it started 1st kick no problem and was running fine it seemed until I gave it a good blast over the field and then it just died

 
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