Have you considered retarding the ignition to cool down the lively response the bike has at the moment? My Scorpa, with Sherco motor, has the ignition backed off a bit which makes it much better for controlled slow riding. Simply achieved (and at no cost) by slackening the backplate bolts behind the flywheel, rotating the plate a touch and clamping it up again. Also you can experiment with different degrees of adjustment to get the feel you want. There is advice on this on the net, from memory the Sherco instructions on Ryan Young's website show this.
Yeah I already purchased it from splatshop, and the guy did try and explain (but not very well) but couldn't tell me if it came with instructions or not
Just purchased a 2016 250 Sherco and was planning on fitting the flywheel weight, I had a 200 gasgas before that was lovely and smooth and the sherco seems a bit lively for me on the slow stuff, have tried the slow action throttle but I didn't think it made much difference.
My question is...how hard is it to fit a flywheel weight? And is there a guide anywhere that anyone knows of?
I've been told that I need to also buy the flywheel puller, is there anything else that I will need to get the job done?
I had the same question a few years ago and someone told me to use model paint used for RC cars etc, bit more expensive but apparently it's not affected by petrol.
3 years on and the bits I sprayed are still as good as new... apart from the self inflicted scratches etc
Also forgot to mention, when I open the bleed nipple nothing comes out, even when pulling the lever maybe a tiny drop but that is it, the fluid level in the master cylinder doesn't drop, this means there's a blockage right? But where is it likely to be and how can I sort it?
if it is crud at the back of the master cylinder how do I go about cleaning it?
And dadof2, you're quite right to question my mechanical ability (or lack of it lol) but the problem was there before I took anything apart, and I'm pretty sure everything went back as it should have done....or at least I didn't have any bits left over at the end :-)
Had another mess with it last night and found the following...
Piston was stuck in, spring was ok and when I freed it up it now appears to be going in and out as it should, but still not working.
Removed the cover and stuck a needle through the 2 small holes in the bottom, didn't seem blocked and with the needle in the hole I could feel the piston scraping on the needle when it moved in and out.
With cover removed the is no change in fluid level when pulling lever & no squirting etc
Checked and reservoir & its full, any other ideas lads?
I'm still think its something to do with the piston not pushing out enough to engage/disengage the plates, can anyone tell me how much it's supposed to move when you pull the lever?
Also on gas gas Jim video about clutch pack it says that after you have removed the bolts on the casing you can remover the cover by pulling the clutch lever which inturn pushes the piston out forcing the casing apart, well when I did this nothing happened, I had to manually prise it apart to remover the casing, this is what is making me think it's some to do with that piston.
Stripped it all down today, cleaned all plates and reassembled with new oil and still doing same thing, clutch just isn't working at all when I pull the lever.
Any other ideas what it could be lads? It was fine last time bike was used and had been put away for ages, now just doesn't work, seems strange.
Can anyone tell me how much the piston is meant to pop out when you pull the lever? I'm wondering if it something to do with that? When I pulled to clutch lever with the clutch casing off it moved about 5mm ish, is that about right?
Got my bike out today for first time in ages and there is a problem with the clutch, basically when I pull the leaver nothing happens. If its in gear and I pull it in the wheel is still locked, and if I have it running and knock it into gear it just goes but the clutch still doesn't work, tried going through all gears and rocking it etc to free it up but nothing. Have given it a little ride (best I can in garden) but still won't work.
Took the bike to a mates house for him to have a look at, and whilst looking under the tank I noticed that I had stuck the wrong connector onto the coil, after swapping this over the spark returned and the bike fired up :D
Obviously this has not always been wrong as it would never have started but I must have stuck it back wrong after checking all the connections, still don't know what the problem was to start with but at least its seems to be sorted (or at least the bike runs).
Went out last night for a couple of hours and it was fine
Thanks for your help fellas, and it it stops again I know where to come
So today I disconnected kill switch & checked all connections under tank, still nothing there.
I took the cover of the flywheel and it was a little bit of moisture there but nothing serious, am I right in thinking I need a special tool to remove the fly wheel? And also should there be a rubber gasket between the cover as mine didn't have one?
Not sure if this has any relevance but 2 weeks ago I dropped it in a stream and it wouldn't start after, tried for ages but it just wouldn't go, so started the walk of shame back to the van and got half way there and was so bloody knackered pushing it up hill that I tried it again and after several kicks I got it going and it was fine all day after that, I then got it home washed it, and started it again a couple of times without any trouble so I figured this wasn't a problem.
2 weeks later it started 1st kick no problem and was running fine it seemed until I gave it a good blast over the field and then it just died
Flywheel weight fitting
in Sherco
Posted
Never heard of this before, will have a look