16cs ajs

As per my original post in this thread, I've been trying to determine the year of manufacture, of this particular Dougie Lampkin replica. The current owner thinks it's an 03, but he's not sure & it's not registered. The frame number is A02E308445. Any ideas, guidance much appreciated chaps. The trials dealer RAS have similiar models for sale, so a visit there may well be informative. Mike.

Thanks chaps for all your replies, views & advice. To answer The Dabster, I live in God's own trials county, Yorkshire, where men are men & women are glad of it. Fortunately there are plenty of trials clubs & challenging terrain. Consequently older trials bikes may have been battered over rocks with subsequent damage to peripherals & plastics. The Lampkin replica that I have seen is no exception. The dogbone bushes or bearings require replacing & the plastics are tired. All of which are, I imagine, still available? I get the impression from various threads that the 315R benefits from better construction & build quality than its period contemporaries, hence a reasonable buy for a "mature clubman." Thanks again guys.

Hi. I've been offered a 315R D.R Replica, in reasonable condition for £1500. As my knowledge of "modern" trials bikes extends no further than my air cooled RTL four stroke, I would appreciate some info, data on the strengths, weaknesses of this model? Reading previous threads it seems that the 315R is still a popular choice, with reasonable potential & good build quality. Are spares still available? What's different from the base model compared with the D.R. replica? 314R/315R comparison? Cheers chaps. Mike.

Cheap shot Nigel at an easy, yet well respected & venerable target. Keyboard critics are ten a penny!

Mayhap the Edinburgh Club have taken a leaf out of the Indoor World Championship's book & introduced a wild card entry? Wild being the operative adjective! Should be a fascinating spectacle watching Guy trying to ride slowly. He'll definitely raise the profile of this classic event. Might even be worthy of a mention in MCN & similiar "rags?" That would be novel.

Hi Acot56, Re your request for help, with a collection of "classics" such as yours, you surely need it! One Cub is surely enough for anyone and I am an owner, but mine's a trials cub. If you have a Tigress/Sunbeam engines trials bike, then you have what may well be a uniquely interesting surviving example of what might have been a successful trials bike. One answer to your enquiry will be found in Deryk's ORRe, to be found on this site, which I heartily endorse & recommend to you. If you can source a copy of Don Morley's Classic British Trials Bikes, you will have perhaps the best reference source available. If necessary, I will photocopy the relevant pages & post them off to you. My choice re your little twin would be an update & make over to be suitable for classic trials. Good luck & enjoy. You will be inundated with questions about your antiquity, should you get it out in any competition. Enjoy.

It's usually the mild steel central collector box that requires renewal due to internal corrosion, as mine did. These are relatively easy to replicate. Reproducing the stylized HRC into the outer face of the silencer will be a challenge. To eliminate the inner face of the alloy silencer being worn through by contact with the outer edge of the tyre, it would be beneficial to weld on a doubling plate, or increase the offset of the mounting bracket to avoid contact. Good luck.

TMX somewhat ambiguously says "in the afternoon." In previous years it has commenced at 3.00 p.m.

Andy, The fact that a 2014 bike had screwed fasteners that could not be dismantled conventionally, would seriously concern me. It's only experienced one winter. I think I'd systematically dismantle as many components as possible and apply copperslip or molybdenum disulphide based grease. Swinging arm & engine removal are much more of a chore with seized fasteners, removal of both being predictable. I thought build quality had improved, over the years.

When I bought my RTL back in the 80s, it came with an HRC manual. It describes a complex method of measuring down the inside of the fork leg to the oil meniscus. In practise, this equates to 250cc. Experimentation with plus or minus 20cc will make a significant difference. I use the recommended 10 grade fork oil. If I was able to attack the hard course (how I wish) or weighed in above 12 stone, a higher viscosity oil would be advantageous. I also use 0.5 inch long PTFE pre load spacers, above the springs, to compensate for the coil springs settling over 30 years of abuse.

Hmmm??? TTspud has invested considerable time, thought & effort into this initiative. I really do want to believe that his intentions are honourable & genuine but the mote responses I read the more concerned I become. By coincidence I have the same model of AJS, in relatively original trim and there are at least four pre 65 clubs, in the North, where I can enjoy it's traditional charms riding Clubman class. I'm never going to win any awards but then neither would I riding the Miller or Grant Ariels. History proves that reactionaries can never halt progress. Witness the Luddites. My approach is simply to enjoy riding what you have, whilst you can, deriving immense pleasure & satisfaction with kindred spirits of like mind. Ultimately the organising authorities, ACU, AMCA etc will determine the regulations & specifications & we all know how difficult they are to influence. In short, get out & enjoy the freedoms you still have. It may well not be available to us, indefinitely!

Wallo, I strongly recommend that you change that lurid yellow for the more traditional black or yellow if you are to compete in classic/pre 65 trials. That way you'll be more in keeping with ALL the other fiddle bikes entered. As both your bikes have rigid back ends, I guess you would be grafting the Rock shocks on to the front of your machines. Finally, when you are competing, take care not to bite your tongue wedged so firmly in your cheek. Nice one Wallo!

Gautrek, re your chain spit link, try this. Paint the "fish plate" white to make it more visible. Support the handlebars with tie downs from an overhead point. Place the bike on robust blocks beneath the sump guard to lift rear wheel clear of ground. Run bike in 1st, blip throttle to induce oscillations in chain tension while observing split link and carefully observe any potential rubs, particularly adjacent to any frame fixtures, tensioner etc. A thin piece of shim steel inserted behind the fish plate and then peened over both legs will prevent the fish plate legs opening up & becoming dislodged, if it does rub against anything. Good luck campaigning a Panther. You have my genuine admiration as well as the essential large spheroids required.

Hi. I'm pretty sure the pre-unit rider in the beck at Cowling is the gentleman school teacher, Trevor Taylor, who, from memory also campaigned a Crusader and Cub. I'm surprised no other period Yorks Classic member hasn't nailed that distinctive 'tache & riding gear, since October. Cheers.

Deryk, I'm intrigued by the picture of the last trials Ajay to leave the factory. What year would that have been, 64? It looks like the short stroke motor, with the push rod tubes cast in to the alloy barrel. My late 61 original Ajay has the long stroke mill with chromed push rod tubes. The riding gear in the photo looks more mid 70s period? Please keep posting. And yes, I have subscribed to ORRe. Ts.