mbeers6

Hi Gary, I am in USA and purchased sheet of the 1mm thick teflon from McMaster-Carr. Product description is "Chemical-Resistant Slippery Teflon PTFE Sheet, White, 0.039" Thick, 6" Wide, 6" Long" https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/129/4095/8545K12 After fitting new strips, I bled it the exact same way you describe above. Are you in UK or USA? I could mail you small strip of teflon from my sheet if you are in USA.

Feels much better! I believe the worn "seal bands" and resulting "clunk" on the rebound fork was having the same effect of way too much air vs oil. So now instead of it feeling like it had very little to no rebound dampening, it is well controlled and compliant on obstacles. Very happy I FINALLY figured it out after years of bleeding the closed cartridge different ways.

Hey Gary, use a flat 1mm washer but make sure you bend it down the middle a little so it pushes the other washer up against the valve. I haven't ridden the bike yet but it was really soft/springy before because of all the air in the cartridge. Will post reply once I ride it!

So I finally solved my rebound "clunk" issue. Guess what it was? The teflon sealing bands on the mid valve and "bleed piston". Thanks to Paul Amott at The Hell Team for posting this video and providing specs on how to make your own teflon bands (since you can't buy them anymore). I was pulling what hair I have left out trying different bleeding procedures without luck. Can't believe it was something so simple. Paul is so knowledgeable, he also told me that when gas gas was selling the wave washer (BT280614101) they wouldn't bend them. Only Marzocchhi did that and of course they are out of biz. Anyway can't thank The Hell Team enough, really glad I finally solved it. My new hand made teflon strip Here is link to Paul's part 2 of the service of Zoke forks

Great, thanks for the update Gary!

Gary, how is the spring holding up versus using wave washer? Can you provide info on what type of spring you used such as length, diameter, where you bought it, etc.? Thanks

Here's another thread with pics https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/marzocchi-fork-maintenance-de-mystefied.1018648/

It's definitely the rebound side on mine. Makes the noise even when the fork is off the bike after bleeding use hell team instructions (and others), etc.

You can order the thicker jet block oring from this place, great resource too http://www.mid-atlantictrials.com/K-101-Parts.html

Compression side is pretty straight forward however since the rebound side is closed cartridge setup you have to follow Hell Team instructions since you have fork completely apart. If you did NOT move the rod and sucked in air, then you might be alright just adding fluid to correct air gap. With that said I've had nothing but trouble with my rebound side and cannot seem to get ride of the "clunk" when it is coming back up on rebound stroke. Hopefully you have better luck than I did.

Do tell Lineaway, what's your secret?

From my 2010 Owners manual and don’t think it’s changed

Following as I'm in the same boat as you with a 2010 that I maintain religiously and has 450 hours but it is a legit green sticker so need it to last until 2025. Will be curious to hear what others have to say about dealer support since I've been mostly using places like trialsuperstore for parts. Where about in CA are you located?

Yes you need to do test with throttle wide open (engine of course off). My '17 with 375 hours tested at 145psi so I'd say try again with throttle WFO. If still that low, then you have issues.

Hey Feets, well the top photo (stock part) is showing backwards above so I probably should have found a better example I called a vendor today who has a '14 and '21 in his shop so he is going to try to look and see if the newer style guard will bolt up to the old style mount. I'll post a solution assuming I find one. Apparently KTM has no interest in supplying "legacy" parts so it will be interesting to see how availability of older parts goes next few years.

I have a 2017 txt 250 and been searching for a rear disc guard but they seem to be on back order everywhere. It does NOT look like the new style disc guard will bolt up. Anyone know the bare minimum components I would need to buy to make it fit? The old part # is BT57050R3009 The new part # is BT57050GG-CPR-1

I'm pretty sure it goes between the clutch cover and the kickstart shaft. So you install the clutch cover, then this tapered washer then the kickstart itself. Larger end butts up against kickstart

My guess is excess carbon buildup in the mid pipe of the exhaust. Were you riding for extended period at higher RPM like on a fire road? That will definitely heat up the goo in the mid box.

Thanks Carl and Feetup! Will look at getting correct length bolts (luckily my pegs aren't "drooping" yet) and also searched for pre formed peg mounts (see below). I try to take care of all my bikes (hence 400 hours on original engine) but do hope to get a new bike in next few years. Feetup...have you seen any peg mounts for sale which are specifically made for modern TXT? I found these on RYP which are meant to allow vintage trials bikes use modern pegs. The GasGas frame is rounded but I'm sure a fabricator could grind this product down to make it fit. Would like to avoid messing with welding the frame if I can.

Hello all, what are your opinions on how I should fix this issue? 2017 GG with around 400 hours and stock skid plate didn't protect base of footpeg mount so material was scraped off. Now I'm getting concerned as the hole for the footpeg bolt is dangerously close to the "edge" of the mount on both pegs. Another rider in our club said he could weld some "material" to the base to build the mount back up. I think that is the best option right now since I don't think GasGas sells a replacement footpeg mount. Your thoughts?

99% sure that hole is stock so no need to worry as it was likely there before the damage occurred. Read through this thread for more info on that hole.

Clogged pilot jet is likely cause, take carb bowl off thoroughly clean, etc. I would first check to see where your air mixture screw is at. How many turns out from fully seated?

No problem Steve, that's what we are all here for...to help each other out. At least you've properly documented it with the dealer if something goes wrong later.

Here is a video of my '17 going through gears. Definitely no grinding from 4th to 5th. A semi loud "clank" but that is it. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1l7L3j3j3Iw0kz9tCxEX3zsaUT62tcWSb/view?usp=sharing

Maybe try getting video or sound of the gear change? Next time I have my '17 out I'll try to record mine shifting from 4th to 5th. As others state, mine is "loud" noise but I don't think it is a grinding noise.