Good point jimmyl. It was dry and not top end. I can see the theory with a rider subconsciously backing off throttle when using the more aggressive setting and then not feeling any difference!
I don't really mind the fact I can't notice a significant difference, just wondered if it should be noticeable or is it so subtle it makes little difference!
I have a 260 4rt 2016 and would appreciate other owners thoughts and experience with this switch.
I hoped the switch would soften the motor with an option for more grunt if needed. I was led to believe the switch was more effective on these bikes than some others as it controlled the fuel injection.
I tried the switch in both settings back to back while practicing sections yesterday in the dry but can't seem to notice any immediate difference to power delivery.
I didn't fit the larger impeller the previous owner did. I will message him to ask him for more details on this as mentioned the 2t type are different. I tried to upload a picture but said it was too large ?
My 2012 300 4T doesn't use a drop but the previous owner did have some overheating/boiling over type problems.
He upgraded the impellor and filled with waterless coolant and now completely cured. The water pump cover has an alloy spacer to accommodate the bigger impellor.
I use a zip tie as a dip stick to check height but in 8 months it hasn't used any.
I am often surprised how infrequently the cooling fan comes on and how short a time it runs for but all is well so be it despite the bike getting plenty of work in sections and occasionally ending up upside down!
I'd recommend taking apart and checking the bearings aren't rusty.
You're right that the bars should automatically fall on their own when bike is on a stand and adjustment is correct so if the stem has no play and steering is still stiff most likely due to some issue with the bearings.
Good luck with the Rev and welcome to the world of trials riding. They're great bikes, perfect choice for someone getting into the sport ?
I own a 2012 300 4T and went through the same thing when I bought it last summer.
If you have the bike on a stand and get someone to gently move the rear wheel up and down while you closely inspect the linkage you may find the play is in the delta link/pivot. A millimeter play there seems to translate to 10mm at the wheel. The bolt holes aren't bushed so nothing to replace other than the pivot. When I had the pivot removed I discussed bushing the bolt holes with an engineer friend of mine to reduce the tolerance to a minimum. It is possible but I needed to refit the pivot to ride the bike that weekend and I've not bothered since. New original ones are available as is a copy by CSP for around £90.
I replaced all the swingarm and linkage bearings, top hats and seals including bottom shock bearing that come in the kit. They were all a little rusty but there wasn't play in any of these parts so this didn't help the rear wheel movement.
Yours may be in other parts, just sharing what I found...
He's my take on my similar situation. I find I have to remove and clean my air filter after every use on my 300 4t Evo. There's always small bits laying in the filter. Like most I have spare filters so don't have to wait for clean and drying time just swap over and reassemble.
When the bike is very muddy and a good wash is needed I leave on the seat/mudguard on while I wash the bike. I then go through the usual removing seat/mudguard and filter clean. If I've managed to get filter wet it doesn't matter and any water in airbox I drain it out.
Have one of those plastic sheet air box covers but have never fitted it, as mentioned they're fiddly and I not sure I really need that amount of cover. If I was riding deep water streams, crossing deep bogs etc I may well fit it to prevent water getting in filter.
I have some tips to keep air filter dry and cleaner that have worked for me. I wedge some reticulated foam in the gap in frame above the carburetor. This helps reduce splashes from water, dirt, twigs, leaves etc finding their way into the filter top. I also seal off the small gap above the rear silencer mount with gaffer tape. There was a hole for wiring in the rear mudguard that I sealed with Sikaflex.
To change crank seals on a 240 I'm afraid you will need to separate the crankcase unlike the later engines, presuming it doesn't have a later engine fitted?
I've attached a Tec sheet with some useful information in case you don't have it.
Nothing lost really. It cost about the same as the sale price to buy and restore it but I used it a lot over a couple of years so the time and money invested paid dividends.
Picture of it after competing in the Cambridge Matchless MCC Brian Stonebridge trial 2016.
In my honest opinion your Fantic 247 is worth about £800 presuming the engine runs with working brakes, clutch, forks shock etc. The more that need fixing the price may go down.
However the bike looks a nice easy project being complete and original, that would be important to me. New rear mudguard, silencer and expected consumables it could be back to it's former glory!
I recently sold a very original and nice Fantic 309 with no faults for £1500 and a while before I let go my 307 go for £1250. Both had lots of money spent and were ready to ride. Unfortunately not all Fantics are worth big money.
Looks really good especially for the money, what are you putting underneath it?
These covers go over the top of old original tanks. In the case of the 240 ones they tidy up scruffy looking tanks tatty that still function okay. A very good idea as old ones can't be painted however unless they're in very bad condition the plastic can be polished.
Ironically these covers are not petrol resistant so in no time at all will look as tatty as the old tank! Wonder why Shedworks don't treat them with fuel resistant lacquer if that would solve the problem?
The 300 Fantic ones are also an excellent idea as they do away with the need for the tank/side panels.
Looks like Motomerlin are now advertising the ETA Motors kits to convert 2010 and up Gas Gas TXT Pro bikes. ETA are a German company who have been making these kits for a few years now.
They look good. I fancied creating an electric trials bike using their kit. After buying a Gas Gas and the price of the kit it was pretty much the same cost as a used Electric Motion bike. It's the cost of the donor bike that is the deal maker or breaker and as I did't own a suitable Gasser I'd have to buy one first.
Creating my own E bike over buying one appeals to me, I'm sure it would be fun and rewarding.
This parts list might help. Unfortunately there isn't a "how to" workshop manual available for this bike. I've attached the owners very similar 305 manual that does have some useful info.
The clutch is on the gear shift side. The cover is easily removed, you'll see the clutch basket with metal and friction plates inside.
Jugging from the overall condition of your project I'd say new plates, gear oil and control cable would be a good place to start to get the clutch working smoothly. All available from inmotion here in the UK who will send parts all over the world.
I rescued a 307 in similar condition once and it was a fun project.
Just a heads up with the kickstart lever, I'd move it clockwise a couple of notches so it sits higher when folded in. You'll not hit your toe on it when using the rear brake.
Hi, could someone kindly confirm by personal test that the blue cdi ducati 32398112 works well without modification (timing or other stuff) on dansi ignition fantic 240? Or maybe also 32898112?
Sorry motosolex should have been more clear. As mentioned it's just to hold while undoing and tightening the nut. I've personally never been happy using an impact wrench to tighten flywheel nuts but I know friends that have.
Just another point. When you tighten the puller bolt to remove the flywheel be patient. If the flywheel hasn't been off for a long time they can be stubborn. Don't overnighten the bolt if it won't shift. I've had to gently tap a flywheel with a soft mallet while the puller pulls.
Another note... pay particular attention to the woodruff key. If it's not very tight in it's slot make sure it doesn't push out when re-fitting the flywheel. Before I fully tighten the nut I like to slowly rotate the engine to make sure the flywheel has pulled up true on the taper.
Here it is motosolex. The two bolts locate in the flywheel holes. The cut out is to clear the kickstart shaft but also doubles to hold everything from moving. Easy to make something similar from a piece of steel plate.
You'll need a 26mm x 1.5 flywheel puller for a 240. I use a homemade holder.
If the wires are original there's a good chance the insulation may have broken down causing problems. If the stator has been rewired you'll need to identify what wires are what as the colours may well be different to original.
The original fitment round bodied Dansi HT coils are known to give trouble, I'm guessing that's the type you have. Most owners change them for the bonded plastic type pictured. They're widely available for about £45. I bought mine from Steve Goode Motorcycles and he supplied a wiring diagram for my 240.
Fantic 240 - removing / refitting exhaust
in Fantic
Posted
I've always had to take the head off along with airbox and rear mudguard. Slipped the exhaust in from front no problem.
Don't think it's possible to get it in without taking parts off.