My plastic radiator cover came loose this weekend. Does anyone know where to get the plastic screws that are used to secure the plastic grill cover to the radiator?
Thanks for the advice guys. I think its probably one of those things that sounds like a pain in the a*** but once you've seen it been done it becomes easy.
I've heard some people don't take the sump guard off and simply lie the bike on its side to drain the oil out. Has anyone got experience of this?
I’m wanting to learn the most efficient way of changing the oil on my 4rt. Taking it to the bike shop is getting expensive! Has anyone ever done a video? This is the first thing YouTube has ever let me down!
Im hoping to learn the tips and tricks of the trade to make it as easy as possible.
I smashed my my water pump case on a trial. Does anyone know who would stock them in the U.K?
googling water pump case came up with loads of different guards. Does anyone know which ones are most useful? The carbon effect ones don't look like they will stand up to much!
I've recently bought a 4RT and it came with a fantastic lighting kit which has never been used!
I've searched the internet to get some idea of value. It is a original Honda and has a screen on the back, presumably for hours/miles/etc. There is also handle bar indicators.
Does anyone know who supplies them so I can get an idea of price.
I had my first ride out last night on the 4RT and I'm a convert.
Went for a EVO 2012. Only had it out to tootle around the yard so far but seems great. I need to tweak the suspension set up to how I like it. It is currently super soft and I like a bit more spring.
How common is the problem of the sticky float in the carburettor?
Sawtooth I've done exactly what you said. A bike shop has it at the minute and I will ask him to service it and have a general look over it. I will then have a base to go off. I'm hoping to pick bits and bobs up from going to trials events. I've had bikes on and off for 20 years so i'm not a complete stranger to very small simple issues. Hopefully it will just be a simple issue which can be fixed easily and cheaply.
My goal is to become competent at working with my bike to save taking it to a shop all of the time plus the expense of paying someone else to do it. I bought a 2 stroke because I thought it would be easiest to learn the ropes with. I'm definitely not afraid of a spanner thats for sure!
I've had another go at the bike. On Wednesday I took the spark plug out and it was fine and I checked the fuel lines which were also fine. I took the carb out and looked at it and thought I don't really want to mess with this so it all went back together - By some miracle the bike started and I managed to have a half hour play before it stopped again and I had to ride it home.
I've gone to go out again every day since and it will start for about 5 seconds and then stop and not start again. v frustrating!
Good to know the cable ties actually serve a purpose. I think i'll get some plastic bolts at some point.
Tonight I came back from work and firstly took the kick start off and realigned it. Nice quick fix! I can feel a click/clunk which feels like it is coming from inside the kick start casing. The kick start does not grip straight away when you go to kick it. Normally I get the bite on the kick start then give it a kick. There is a slight click/clung which pushes the foot start down before you can really kick it.
The bike started first time!-- however it cut out after 2 seconds.
I thought it may be flooded so I kicked it over ten times with the throttle open - Nothing
Then I took the spark plug out - Nothing. I've never done anything with the spacing on the spark plug. It is a new one that is in.
The fuel question is a good one. I have used 100ml to 5 litres of petrol. How much effect does running the right fuel make? (sorry if I sound ignorant).
What is a Stator?
How do I change the ignition timing?
At Point 4. I'll get on checking the bolts to see if they need tightening later tonight.
Yes being it is bull**** or yes being the cable ties serve a purpose?
If it is a simple as taking the kick start off and re positioning it that sounds like a easy fix. Thanks!
Below is a link to some photographs (I could not figure out how to put them on here) As I have just taken them it is a bit dark in the shed so they may be a bit hard to make out.
I've just got my first trials bike which is a Evo 250 2 stroke 2010 and after having it for about 3 weeks I'm coming across some problems:
1. the kick start lever starts to far forward so to start the bike (when it does start) you have to lean forward so you can get your leg behind it or use your hand to move it.
2. One you have kicked kicked it it does not line up with the dint in the exhaust like it is meant to... any suggestions?
3. I've been having problems starting it. When I first got the bike it started easy first time for the first week or so. I have been doing relatively simple training drills such as trying to do a figure of 8 around 2 bricks, the occasional wheelie, etc. It not wont start. Last night i checked that the fuel lines where clear, new spark plug and the air filter had a clean.
4. there is a metalic grey oil deposit that has started to build up around where the exhaust exits. What is this and is it a major issue?
5. The rear mud guard is held on with cable ties. I was told y the seller that this is to avoid snapping the mud guard if you flip the bike - is this bull sh*t?
As I mentioned I'm a beginner when it comes to trials especially the maintenance side of things so any help (preferably simple!) would be much appreciated. I'm in the North Yorkshire Area, UK so I'll be getting to a trial once I can trust the machine.
Number Boards
in Vertigo
Posted
Holster - that number board looks great! I'm looking forward to seeing v2. Please keep us updated.
I've ordered my Nitro 😁