Thanks to Chylowen's written instructions about how to put a 240 pipe on without removing the head. While I did it I took these pictures to supplement his instructions. The last picture shows the inlet resting on the down tube, a little push and it cleared. It took longer to remove the necessary parts than to put the pipe on. Very easy to do. Thanks Chylowen!
I have an '82 240 and am doing maintenance during the pause in our riding season. I've had several people tell me that it's important to cut the pipe open and replace the internal packing. I don't have a problem doing the work but I can't get anyone to tell why it needs to be done. I understand why I need to repack the muffler but the pipe makes no sense. I can push a piece of tubing clear through. Anyone have an explanation?
My "lean but it's not" issue is about 90% gone. I'm not sure what I did to help it but I did do the following:
Pulled the pipe and cleaned the carbon out of the header. I scraped and used steelwool in the exhaust port so it's very clean.
I went back to a 115 main jet and left the 52 pilot. Needle clip is in middle position.
I put in an NGK Iridum plug.
I put a new cylinder and air box intake boot in too.
Its much better than it was, unfortunately I don't know what "fix" fixed it.
Good suggestion. I'm in Texas so about 400' MSL and the temperatures are in the 60(f)-70's here in winter. My carb is a new OKO and I run a fuel filter.
Huski, thanks for the reply, that's interesting to know.
Up to this point: I have re-jetted to the where the bike wants to blubber and not clean out and still the same. I've tried some 104 race gas, same thing. I did try using brake cleaner sprayed on the flywheel and intake tract as it ran and it's all good. I put in a NGK B6HS and that seemed to reduce the knock some, I think. I'm going to pull the pipe and make sure everything is ok there. I have a new NGK iridium plug that I'll try after the pipe is checked/cleaned. I'll clean the exhaust port while I'm there.
If anyone else has a suggestion please chime in.
My old TY 175 is looking pretty good right now! ?
The clip is in the second notch from the top. The bike runs and starts great (with the 115 main) with the 118 it doesn’t want to clean out. It falls to idle quickly as soon as I chop the throttle. It just bangs like detonation when the throttle closes. I just read about deceleration knock, “pipe bangs” some call it. I haven’t had an opportunity to research it yet but the one short article I read describes what I think I’m hearing.
Line away, I did go up to a 52 pilot and I have the 118 main in it now with an NGK B6hs plug. After all the testing I’ve done the (what sounds like) detonation is still there. It’s only about half as much but still present. With the 118 it’s not reving out clean at w/o throttle so I might need to step down one there.
Do you think it could be coil or ignition related or stay with the carb and go up more on the pilot? Any and all advice is greatly appreciated!
Thanks everyone for the replies. After extensive checking and testing I haven’t found anything wrong so I went back to the carb and increased main jet size to 118 and put in a new NGK B6HS plug. It actually runs better! It still has a little lean sounding knock or ping at almost full throttle. I’m going to go up to a 120 main and give it a try.
I would have never guessed that I would increase jet size so much. Like Alberto indicated above, my bike came with a 105 installed. I was surprised when I was told 112 is the correct size. Thank you all for the help.
Unfortunately I don’t have any past history for the bike. Is there any way to check the seals? Perhaps some sort of leak down? I’ll try the bigger pilot, thanks for the tip.
My bike is sounding lean at about 2/3 and up throttle. (It almost sounds like detonation.) I’m running an OKO 26mm carb, 48 pilot and 115 main, needle clip in the second notch from the top. The main is one size bigger than required. I don’t think it’s a carb problem anymore. I checked my timing and it’s right on. I checked my pipe and it appears clear and the muffler is a new Wes. I’m running the stock champion plug. Any ideas or suggestions?
Good idea, welding on top of the frame instead of a butt joint. That’s a simple way to get a custom location. Thanks for posting!
Edit: I just looked and removing the peg mount and adding an overlay like b40rt shows the new peg mount can move down and back without having to move the kickstand. Thanks for sharing your ideas.
Dont just measure and transfer one bikes peg position to another. Work out how the rear brake will need to be modified if at all. Gear lever will this be ok for you further away, most probably. But.....sit on your bike with some blocks of wood on the floor level with the rear wheel spindle, arrange the blocks so that you can stand up and judge where best to position the pegs. This could be 3-4 inches back and down from the original by perhaps 2 inches or more to be level with the rear wheel spindle. Any lower and you will be banging into obstacles with the feet and footrests first before the wheel can raise you up. Experiment in this way until you are satisfied that you have a good position. Measure twice weld once??
This is an interesting approach, you can get a feel before welding, thanks.
I have an ‘82 240 Pro and I have read plenty on the perks of moving the pegs. I’ve not seen anything regarding how far down and how far back they need to be. Anyone have dimensions? Thanks
Thanks gentlemen, great information and details that can't be found anywhere except in a forum like this and members that share their knowledge. Now I get to start shopping for parts. Thanks again!
Greetings, I am starting the restoration on my bike and I would like to do some modifications. I have a complete TY250 front end that I would like to use, is there anything I need to do or modify? I appears that it will fit easily. I also plan on putting new shocks on it. I'm leaving the mounts stock so can you give me a recommendation for shock length and spring weight for use with the 250 forks? (I weigh 205 with my gear on) I'll be posting pictures of the build as it progresses. Thanks in advance.
As long as your coolant is full I wouldn't worry about the fan running all the time. It's taken a while for me to adjust to a 4t fan running constantly when the temps here in Texas are at +100 degrees (f). Both my Montesa and Beta fans kick on and stay on full time at these high temps and neither have shown any sighs of overheating or puking any coolant. I usually ride for about a half an hour without shutting down, never getting out of first and second gear. The fan running is just background noise now.
4t's run hotter than 2t's and you have to accept it.? I had the same concerns with my '17, the temps in Texas run near 100 f and the fan hardly ever shuts off. It really bothered me for a while but it is normal so I just ride and enjoy. Just FYI, my Beta 300 4t fan runs constantly after it warms up, perfectly normal. I had to accept that too.
I tried to find that spec too but no luck. Since you're tightening threads with oil on them into aluminum with a paper gasket I just went by feel and got them snug using the cross-cross pattern. I cleaned my bike after I was finished and just checked for any weeping oil while I rode for a while. It pains an engineer to not have a torque spec and just go by feel! ?
Fantic 240 - removing / refitting exhaust
in Fantic
Posted
Thanks to Chylowen's written instructions about how to put a 240 pipe on without removing the head. While I did it I took these pictures to supplement his instructions. The last picture shows the inlet resting on the down tube, a little push and it cleared. It took longer to remove the necessary parts than to put the pipe on. Very easy to do. Thanks Chylowen!