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Posts posted by netley
  1. Hi, I have a 349 white wonder which I've owned for about 4 years. It's tatty as hell but starts and rides well. I've not done much to it apart from registering it for road use, new crank seals, a new OKO carb and a new chain and sprockets to up the gearing so it's usable on the road, which is ineresting to say the least. I use it once, maybe twice, a year so I'm thinking of selling it unless it's worthless 'cos of condition.

    What do people think? Ideal project that someone will take my arm off for or piece of junk that's not woth its scrap value?






  2. Hi, I have a 1981 349 white wonder and I'm hoping to enter "Herefordshire on the edge" A road trial with some green lanes run by the VCMCC.

    I'd be interested to know if any one has worked out the MPG of one of these and therefore the range on a tank full. I have upped the gearing a little to 34t rear but can't remember the front and can't see it at the mo' I did lower it from standard.

    Thanks for looking.


    349 White Wonder

    '94 VFR750

    '59 Matchless 500

  3. 7 minutes ago, bigshineybike said:

    its easier for you to google Montesa cota wiring diagram than to add one here. they are readily available.

    I have a diagram, I'm after one of just the switch as the switch I have is not original. I've seen an original switch for 35 euros but with out any wiring.

    There are ones with wiring harness attached but 140 euros? I don't think so especially when they are selling a generic £5 brake light switch for 100 euros !!!

  4. 1 hour ago, 2stroke4stroke said:

    If your need is purely to get an MoT then just take the lights off altogether.  If you really need to use lights you can fit a diode in to the circuit to restrict voltage.  I'm assuming the bike is six volt but can't remember what the diode we used to fit back in the day was called. The twelve volt version was universally known as a zener diode, though presumably a proprietary name, and possibly available in various voltages.  The alternative was to fit twentyfour volt bulbs.

    No doubt technology has moved on and someone will be able to suggest a more modern alternative.

    Thank you. I need working lights as there's a trial I want to enter when the world is sane again, which stipulates having working lights.

    A friend says he may be able to help as he thinks my aftermarket switch is wired wrongly. Is there a wiring diagram of the switch? Does anyone have one?

  5. Hi, Just looking at returning to my 349 after 6 months of working on an old British bike.

    My bike has a wiring loom that is a little tatty. It has an aftermarket switch but didn't have any lights. I have bought aftermarket front and rear lights and managed to wire them in and my electrical knowledge is all but non existant!

    All appears to work but when the revs rise the bulbs blow. How is the voltage regulated? I need the lights for an mot.

    Thanks for looking.


  6. Hi, Thanks for all your input and apologies for late response.

    I shall be trying to fir the chain later this week. I won't be using the old chain as a guide as I am changing the gearing.

  7. Managed to cut a slot in with a multi tool and got the nut off by using a screwdriver in the slot.I can't get the stud out as I would like to at least clean it up put it just turns....

    Got a puller behind the sprocket and put tension on it.Given it plenty of thumps wit a hammer and will leave it overnight I suppose.

  8. Hi, I'm trying to remove the front sprocket off my 1981 349. I can't get my 3 legged puller on and trying to remove the curved bracket that goes around the sprocket. I've taken the bolt off that holds the chain tensioner on but when trying to undo the top nut the whole thing is turning and won't undo. I'm concerned as to what is at the back of the threaded part as it goes into the case and I don't know if it's undoing something inside. I'll attach a pic when I can resize it correctly.



  9. I am now only awaiting confirmation from the DVLA telling me what my registration number will be and it will be road ready /legal. 

    I am thinking of trying to get the fuel tank looking a little tidier. 

    Does anyone have any experience of painting these tanks? 

    It's plastic though it has been repaired underneath with fibreglass. 

  10. Hi All,

    Having got the leaking clutch case sorted, it was the seals around the gear selector and clutch actuator shafts, I am now in the process of road registering it. It now has an MOT and the NOVA docs are with HMRC as we speak.

    The bike has a wiring loom and I am trying to get working lights on it but the switch is not original and there are a couple of wires not connected. Does anyone know of a suitable alternative to the originals as these seem to be around the £100 mark.



  11. When I first did the crank seals it ran ok until it got warm then the oil started coming out from the filler plug which I had drilled a hole in. I blocked this and then it appeared from the shaft seal which I presume are worn.

    I put 300ml of oil in which is as per the manual. 

    I'm hoping that when I change the shaft seals this may sort it but I'm now concerned over the play in the gear change shaft. 

    I will film this and put it on YouTube and hopefully all your knowledge will point me in a positive direction :)

  12. Yes, i had oil coming out of the hole. I blocked it and it started coming out from the clutch and gear shafts as before. 

    When I can get the seals out for the clutch and gear shafts I will change them but I noticed the gear shaft has a lot of movement and the mechanism it is linked to in the clutch case moves. 

    I'm presuming this should not be so? 

  13. I have now replaced the crank seals and the problem persists. After another talk with InMotion I am now going to replace the clutch actuating arm seal and the gear change shaft seal in the clutch case. 

    Any tips as to how to remove the old ones? 




  14. Well I have had no luck with getting the primary drive gear off. Searched for tools and then rang InMotion Trials and asked if they sold a puller for this. He laughed loud and heartily at this and said to grind the gear off and buy a new one from him.

    An old friend who's a right clever bugger, had a look and later rang me to send him dimensions for the shaft and drive gear, etc. He popped over today with something he'd made.

    I fitted it, tightened it, gave it a good whack and tightened it again.

    Off it popped.

    Here is a video of how it works taken when I had put the gear back on for realism purposes.

    :) One happy chappy.


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  15. I would suggest using the decompressor lever (by the clutch) if trying to start it or you can get a very sore leg/shin if it kicks back. It lets you move the piston just past top dead centre to a position where you can have a swing at it.

    Slowly push the kickstarter down until it won't move then pull the decompressor lever in until the kickstarter will move slowly and it has gone over TDC. You should be able to kick it all the way down then. Wear sturdy boots and try it a couple of times with fuel off first to practice.

    Everyone starts somewhere and there is a wealth of knowledge here and I'm no expert at all so I'm always asking advice.

    Keep us posted.


  16. You need to change gearbox oil which is the plug under the bash plate and fills above in the middle of the engine. Also the transmission oil which drains from below the gear lever and fills from above it to the left of the clutch arm.

    Did you see the link to the manual Sparky? I can send a pdf if you would like. It's in Spanish with English as well. Oils are listed as Gearbox SAE 90 and transmission SAE 10w30


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