You can feel gyroscopic forces at work quite easily and demonstrated quite well with a large bicycle wheel.
For anyone that is interested or not done it before ( probably as a kiddie taking his/her bike apart?).
Hold the ends of the wheel spindle in each hand and roll the wheel along the ground ( or ask someone else to spin it for you) as fast as possible.
Then try turning it left and right or tipping to the left or right.
You will feel gyroscopic forces.
This happens to any spinning thing, crankshaft, camshaft, flywheel, front wheel etc.
It is why counter steering works to good effect on a road bike at speed and is one reason a two stroke feels more nimble than a four stroke, lighter and fewer spinning parts.
My Mont has so much grunt and instant take off I don't think I have ever used full throttle on the stuff I ride, barely even half throttle.
It'll climb just about any hill I have the guts for without having to rev much at all.
It also takes off for logs and steps without too much of a handful.
So it always amazes me when I see/hear guys reving the nuts off. (Maybe that's the difference between 2T and 4T)
My take on your throttle control issue could be that you are struggling with the enduro to trials scenario.
I guess maybe you use the throttle kinda on or off?
Try covering the front brake lever with one finger.
If I don't rest a finger on the brake lever, I find, especially when concentrating on new moves, that it is hard to meter in the throttle gently, and therefore it is easy to give it a gob full when you don't intend to.
Keeping a finger on the front brake gives me a reference point and it becomes very easy to make tiny adjustments or suddenly wake it up a bit without over doing it.
I will try and upload some pics when I next undress her for a service. Give me a little while…
It started when I removed the Bank Angle sensor, an unnecessary item if a magnetic kill switch is used. I wanted to remove the metal bracket and unused connector so started to unwrap the loom.
Someone suggested moving the fan relay up to the headstock at the same time, because that is where its wires originate. (They don’t.)
I was aware of a few unwanted connectors around the headstock, so I thought "Why don't I just go for it".
The first thing I noticed is just how complicated Montesa made the loom. There are wires running in one direction just to turn round and run the other way again.
I think there were about 8 earth wires up at the headstock, connected with a large plastic block, with no apparent reason for being there.
Instead of separate earth wires from each requirement all being joined at the headstock. I now have one earth wire with a tee taken off near each requirement.
(I noticed in the wiring diagram in the owner’s manual that one of the earth wires from the frame travels directly to the ECU. I guess the ECU needs a “clean” earth for reference, so have left that wire unmodified.)
Getting rid of the excess connectors at the headstock leaves room for the fan relay, which would eliminate the extra cable sheath that runs parallel to the main loom under the tank. But...nearing completion...I wondered why I was adding the weight of the relay to the very top and very front of the frame, when its wires originate from behind the engine, (lower and more central).
Removing the fan relay mounting tang and Bank Angle sensor and mount leaves a lot more room for the main wiring connectors behind the cylinder.
They tuck in much better under the throttle body in the large plastic sock. This leaves plenty of room for the fan relay to be sited between the main connector sock and the capacitor. Thus the relay moves inboard with much shorter wires. (There were two separate power wires running through the loom to the headstock and then back in the separate sleeve to the relay, but on unwrapping the loom the two wires were tee’d together nearer to the supply point.) I now have one much shorter wire running direct to the relay and tee’d just before the relay. The blue/black also now runs direct to the relay instead of up and back.
As standard, the fan motor wires and sheath run down to the coil, just to turn round and run up to the headstock, which gives a separately wrapped cable nestling between the vent pipes, HT lead and loom alongside the radiator. It is now history.
I have routed it straight up from the motor, strapped to the engine vent pipe, and shortened it. The connector sits by the vent pipe canister.
The fuel pump connector is the only other one under the tank now.
(You may want to leave the Mapping Switch connector there. It is not applicable to my bike. I have left a tail of it at the ECU for future use if need be).
With a few other bits shortened or removed, I have left over on the floor…
4 wire connector blocks and approx 110g of wire etc.
consisting of approx…
1.95metres of red power supply.
2.45m of green earth.
0.7m of yellow/green
0.5m white/green
0.65 of blue/black
plus approx 0.45m of the plastic sheath.
Removing the support tangs for the BA sensor and fan relay etc, shaves approx 80g off the standard rectifier bracket.
Plus, of course, the instigator of the whole project the BA sensor at about 110g.
Add in the shortening of the fuel vent tube whilst redirecting it to the headstock (as per old days) and removing the steering lock, you get the 350g weight reduction.
I have size 8s too (about average for a male of my generation?). My 4RT came with what I think is an Apico pedal which may be a bit less exposed than the standard but gives enough leverage and easily reached.
I ride with my instep on the rest and lift my toes, as it were, to put the weight on to the back of the rest to get grip if necessary. I then have no need to lift my foot to reach the brake, but it should be possible to get used to doing so - we all need to lift the other foot off to change gear in a section, as is occasionally done, after all.
You'll never get a trials bike absolutely perfect in this regard. I'm sure an ergonomist would be aghast at our set ups.
I have not heard of a dual control device can you give us more info Oz T?
Hi 2s4s,
I'm a little like you, I ride on my instep but nearer the front of it than the middle, I do roll back onto the rear of the footpeg to weight it.
But my boot does not reach the lever.
I understand we all lift the foot, gear etc, but gear changes are not usually at crucial moments like using the rear brake when weighting the rear end.
I nearly endo'd yesterday because my boot missed the lever by a few millimetres.
I know a bike will never be perfect, but my pedal could be lot better than it is.
As for the dual control thingy...www.clake.com.au/
Weight
in General Trials Talk
Posted
You can feel gyroscopic forces at work quite easily and demonstrated quite well with a large bicycle wheel.
For anyone that is interested or not done it before ( probably as a kiddie taking his/her bike apart?).
Hold the ends of the wheel spindle in each hand and roll the wheel along the ground ( or ask someone else to spin it for you) as fast as possible.
Then try turning it left and right or tipping to the left or right.
You will feel gyroscopic forces.
This happens to any spinning thing, crankshaft, camshaft, flywheel, front wheel etc.
It is why counter steering works to good effect on a road bike at speed and is one reason a two stroke feels more nimble than a four stroke, lighter and fewer spinning parts.