You should be able to get the coils rewound rather than getting a replacement.
If you can find a manual I would think also they would have some resistance values stated, once you warmed it up you could check these values against what you are getting to confirm it is the stator.
Gear Oil - I use ATF fluid but can't see a problem with what you have suggested, and yes you remove the SHCS behind the gear lever to set the level.
Key thing to do is to remove the drain plug (using a Hex Drive) and not the kickstart stop bolt (which has a Hex Head) when draining the oil.
Premix - every answer is valid depending on how you want to ride the bike, I normally ride at 80:1 in competition trials but if you are doing trail work I would look at 50:1 with the modern synthetic oils.
Suspension - If you just bottom on trails then you are probably set up perfect for a competition trials event.
MotoSWM in the UK are most helpful for parts and information.
Key is to try and get an oil with a low burning temperature (flash point).
Have a look at the oils in your shop and pick one that is on the lower end of the burning temperature as Trials motors generally don't get hot enough to correctly burn the most fantastic fully synthetic oils designed for race bikes.
My experience with the Beta is they are lacking compared to the Mont in power, so it would feel sluggish in comparison.
Obviously if it has the slow action tube fitted that wouldn't help matters.
In Motion in the UK are selling new stanchions, if your stanchions are more than just a little rusty you might find it will be more cost effective to purchase new items.
I assume it is not hard to turn when the spindle nut is loose?
Have you fitted the same bush/spacer that is placed inside the hub between the two wheel bearings on the spindle?
Theoretically the woodruff key should not take any load from the engine at all, it only locates the flywheel correctly for timing purposes.
I would be investigating the torque you are using to retain the flywheel onto the tapered fit.
Also worth checking the tapered fit itself and maybe lapping it to correct if the fit/surface is poor.
Use a coarse file to create some filings onto a piece of paper, set the piece of paper on fire and use it (the non-burning end) to sprinkle the filings into the flame.
If they catch fire as they meet the flame its magnesium otherwise its aluminium.
If they are 10-12 feet up like marcelli was there should be some form of matting on the ground rather than a nice piece of concrete to crunch into.
It wouldn't be too hard to get some foam and place a cover on it so it looked visually appealing for the crowd.
With the size of the obstacles now in indoor comps they are lucky that they haven't injured anyone worse than Bou the other year.
Most side stands have 2 mount points for the spring at the bracket that mounts to the swingarm.
One point self retracts with the spring and the other one allows the spring to go past centre and hold the stand in position.
In the event of the throttle jamming on you can pull the cable out of the twist grip control at the handle bars, purely by reefing it out, this will normally release the jammed throttle.
Second option is to cover the exhaust outlet, if an engine can't expel gases it cant run.
Also you could have jammed the brakes on and killed the engine that way.
If you are lucky you have only destroyed the top end and the bottom end is still usable, it needs to be disassembled and checked.
09 txt pro 250 cutting out when warm.
in Gas Gas
Posted
You should be able to get the coils rewound rather than getting a replacement.
If you can find a manual I would think also they would have some resistance values stated, once you warmed it up you could check these values against what you are getting to confirm it is the stator.