I recently brought a beta evo 250 but unfortunately haven’t had much seat time. I’ve joined up to Nash but don’t know anyone in the area that rides so kinda limited to when I can drag the missis along so obviously not that fun. Looking for a couple buddies that I can tag along with and hopefully learn a bit from. I’m lucky enough to finish work early most days and I’m only 20 mins away so if anyone is popping down let me know would be great to get down there and ride 👍
Join Bexleyheath and district mcc, most of the venues we use are easy to get to from the M20, M2 or M25.
Too many volts are frying it to death, get a voltmeter connect between two wires that feed fan, check with engine running, anymore than 13.5 maybe 14 volts will kill the fan, my money is on a faulty voltage regulator unit, which is a very Honda thing to happen.
4 things, dirty tank dumping particles that jam the needle valve open and make it leak, worn float needle and/or seating (common), damaged float (leaking fuel into itself and making it heavy) and finally, incorrectly set float height.
Thanks for that, always thought a brake light was required, that's saved me a job. As for a horn, can I use a bulb horn on a pre'70 bike or does it have to be constant tone?
Pre 73 a bulb horn is good, after 73 single tone electric horn.
Anyone ever fitted a battery powered brake light to a trials bike that has no other lights fitted?
I have an idea how to do it but would appreciate any info.
For a daylight mot and indeed daylight use on the road in the UK you do not need a brake light, you do require a horn and a speedo (speedo not tested at mot though).
The grey gunk sounds like water has got in to the box, perhaps from an external source (drowned in water section) or from a water pump leak, there shouldn't be any pressure in the box or clutch case when the engines running, can you run it with the filler plug out and feel anything pulsing? like you say it does sound like a possible crank seal issue.
You need a thread file to straighten it out, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metric-Thread-Restoration-Repair-File-Cleans-Damaged-Threads-0-75-3mm-Pitch/142073213994?epid=18012049081&hash=item211439342a:g:ilwAAOSw~T9adbMu
yes, a low float height could well cause a stall downhill, suggest set carb to original specs including checking all jet sizes, and needle height, also replace the float valve.
Sounds possibly like the sparks system breaking down with heat, it is like 40 odd years old, suggest confirm bared ht lead (no cap just end of lead after removing cap) to engine metal test when it's broken, see if it can make 5mm gap when being kicked, if not suggest get electronic ignition kit.
2 screws, one raises and lowers the engine idle speed by lifting lowering the carb slide, other is the mixture/air screw which alters fuel and air mix from idle to around 1/8th throttle.
I split a Techno engine a while back, it's not so different to the Evo, all I used was the flywheel puller and a chinese bearing puller kit to swop out the mains for new.
Sometime, somewhere, I heard there was an issue with excessive compression ratio (pinking/detonation) and it was cured with a head insert, strongly suggest you contact Scorpa
Side stands are too puny for starting from, I bent and snapped the bracket on my Beta 300 doing this, it's loosened up a lot since and I have refined my technique for starting quite successfully, being on the left doesn't help, I cut my teeth on right side kickstarts in the 80's.
I have a Beta but that to me is pretty normal behaviour in hot weather, I checked mine with a temp probe once, the fan comes on at a pretty low temperature.
Bike floods on steep hill climbs
in Sherco
Posted
make sure the overflow hoses are clear, double check the float height, I assume you tried a new float, needle and seating.