Thanks next stop was a blow lamp on the knuckle on the splines ?
shes had a full strip down and clean just a good general clean and tidy. Could really do with new wheel bearing again what a pig to pull the rear spacers they won’t budge
Hi again guys is there any trick to getting off a seized on kick start I’ve followed the removal process by undoing the Allen bolts and using the lever to prize it off the splines.
looking for tips now how to remove I’ve soaked it in release agent
Guys I’ve totally strip and clean the entire bike today after. Picking it yesterday
question is : the airbox joining the carb through body work I’ve undone all the body work screws to lift off rear body work and tail section
ive undone the rubber link hose to air side of the delorto carb and lift it away! ?
right re fitting in reverse : is there or should there be a rubber on the back of the carb that fits inside the rubber link tube to the air box if you tighten up the jubilee clip on this link pipe is looks to small and water and crap could get in this gap I will try and up load a pic
should there be the iteam in the second pic fixed to the carb then into the link hose and then tightened up
thank you
I also don’t have the square plate thing in front of the rubber part ether
Reverse bleeding is the answer, you dont move the lever with this method.
You’ll need a syringe, one the size of a regular tube of toothpaste. At least 3feet of clear plastic tubing.
Ensure the bleed nipple is clear, snug it down just over finger tight, leave a ring spanner on the nipple, push the end of the clear tube onto the nipple ensure its tight and not going to let air in. Pull out the syringe plunger. Connect the other end of the clear tube to the syringe body. Cable tie or string the syringe body to the handlebar grip. With another syringe ( so you’ll need two the same size) and good quality brake fluid suck up some fluid and carefully inject it into the hanging syringe. Carefully insert the syringe plunger into its body now full of fluid, open the bleed nipple about a quarter turn and gently force the fluid into the slave cylinder nipple. This fluid will come up into the clutch master cylinder fluid reservoir, this is tiny so prepare for spillage. Thats it you now keep forcibg fluid through until no bipubbles are seen in the tube and the fluid in the reservoir is clean. Tighten the bleed nipple but not too much!
The fluid will change colour as the seal degenerates by shedding tiny microscopic pieces of itself into the fluid.
Note brake fluid is Hygroscopic ( yes that is spelt correctly) which means the fuid absorbs moisture from the atmosphere reducing the fluids life and operating potential. In the brake system this moisture will boil before the brake fluid causing steam vapour in the brake line and long lever/pedal travel. This is a main reason for fluid changes on a regular basis.
If after all this you still have a poor feel to the clutch it may be a leaking seal allowing air in and fluid out. You also get the situation wherea seal does not leak but still allows air into the system.??Hope this helps you.
Job done this morning step by step
in the end I took the lever out pumped the master cylinder a couple of time then took out the clutch line from the top forced the fluid back up the line in a a bottle locked off the bleed nipple drained out the master cylinder connected back up the line and refilled the cylinder via the syringe perfect pushed all the air up and out ?
Guys i need help with bleeding the clutch i can not get any pressure via the bleed nipple clutch end
After changing the bleed nipple and banjo nut and copper washers, originally i just want to replace the clutch fluid after inspection it was filthy and bleed nipple rusted solid
is there a secret way of bleeding the clutch
i ve even opened the bleed nipple tube in a bottle and left it open for a couple of hours to see it it would run through with gravity
Having had the bike a couple of days now just going through the fluid levels and replacing etc and general check over before first ride out
I’ve noticed the bottom shock bush swinging arm mounting end is slightly worn are these easy enough to replace ??
also
on the Master cyclinder and clutch cyclinder the rubber boots are worn where is the best place to order replacement parts from around Durham or online ??
its a genuine bike nothing really wrong only age related things ie: wore out Allen bolts looks all ok but going to go through it like a fine tooth comb
Carb setup Dellorto PHBH26 on sherpa 198A
in Bultaco
Posted
have a look at jim snell youtube video about the dellorto