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cgunzelman

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Posts posted by cgunzelman
 
 
  1. I'm putting my bike back together and wanted to finally have everything "correct" on it. Just tired of searching for manuals every time I want to do something on my bike. I should have saved them all when the Lewisport and RYP websites still had them all up.

  2. I had similar problems with my 2000 2.9 and replaced the reeds with Boyesen 2 stage fiberglass. Other posters here and on ADVrider suggested the Pro series reed set with 1 carbon and 1 fiberglass wasn't as smooth in the throttle as the regular fiberglass 2 stage. New reeds completely solved the vagueness in the idle mix screw. Now I never think about adjusting it during a ride. BTW, the Boyesen #665 reeds for these old Shercos are the same as a KTM 65 and KTM 50. I'm in the US and use non-ethanol gasoline with 36 and 118 jets that were in it when I acquired the bike recently.

    I originally thought the problem was caused by the carburetor not being clean enough or a leaky O ring somewhere so I purchased a basic rebuild kit for the dellorto to replace every single rubber piece and gasket. Couldn't be happier with how it runs now.

    • Like 1
  3. On 6/27/2012 at 6:59 AM, zippy said:

    My 2000 has held up resonably well. The underneath mounting tabs for the bash plate (near dog bones) are very weak and would bend up and crack. had them welded for a couple years in a row then I decided to beef them up with some plate steel and a small gusset and have not had any problems since.

    Also the silencer is easier to repack than 2001 and up.

    zippy do you have any pictures of the gusset you added? I'm also looking for pictures of the silencer taken apart. I just bought a 2000 with the end cap partially welded on. I believe the mounting flanges or slip fit are no longer there. I'll need to take it to my friend to have the rear cap and end of the outside tube built to match what it was originally.

  4. Just got my 2.9! Love it so far. Engine seems solid and very clean. Currently waiting on rear wheel bearings to arrive in the mail, spent $10 on ebay for some nice SKF contact seal bearings. Those will get cleaned out and waterproof grease added back in. My fork oil seals seem good enough, not perfect so I spent another $8 on chinese dust seals to keep dirt out. I know other riders have issues with cheap oil seals on their forks so I'll spring the $60 for that next year. The dust seals had Paioli or Marzocchi  on them and looked original from Y2K. Suuuuper dry rotted and cracked. Could probably get the ink cartridge from a cheap pen through the cracks.

  5. Thought this was a great thread over on another forum. For those that find neat twinshocks on craigslist but don't have plans to buy them, maybe someone here will find the info useful. I apologise if my US location offends anyone. I don't know the equivalent of Craigslist in the UK.

    I'll start. A bunch of Hodaka parts bikes in Pennsylvania. 

    https://harrisburg.craigslist.org/mcy/d/hazleton-hodaka-dirt-bike-lot/6775910399.html

     

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  6. Have you tried emulating a hot-start lever by introducing a vacuum leak? Motocross bikes have a cable-operated hot-start lever on their handlebars that operates a port on the intake or carb to bypass the carb and allow fresh air directly into the cylinder. On my 4 stroke bike, the carb had a vacuum port to operate the petcock. I capped that port when I installed a manual petcock. When the bike would flood too bad out in the woods, I removed the cap and it fired right up. Quickly replace the cap and ride on my merry way. I added a 12v solenoid valve to that port and wired it to an unused momentary button on my turn signal cluster so now I have an electronic hot-start button.

    • Confused 1
 
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