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54tphill

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Posts posted by 54tphill
 
 
  1. On 9/1/2020 at 1:06 PM, thall1 said:

    Any progress yet ?

     

    On 9/1/2020 at 1:06 PM, thall1 said:

    Any progress yet ? 

     

    Yeah I’ve given up and decided to trade it in Taking it back to inch perfect, they are the experts and I’m sure they’ll sort it. I’m collecting a brand new 4rt 2020 tomorrow. 
    ??‍♂️ I will of course get them to let me know what the problem was once they’ve fixed it so we all know. 

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    • Haha 1
  2. 2 hours ago, thall1 said:

    Just for your info , mine used to cough every now and again .. eventually it stopped and no amount of kicking would get it to start. It would start if I disconnected the fuel line to the injector and manually fed the injector but it would run very rich as if ‘choke’ was on.. hence why I later replaced the temp sensor.

    i got the ecu ‘read’ and it said there was a temp fault... so despite already fitting a new temp sender I fitted another from a good bike... still wouldn’t start or if it did it took 20-30 kicks and wouldn’t keep running. A loom was fitted from a donor bike and we thought that had fixed it but 24 hrs later the bike once again refused to start... ecu was swapped again (this had already been done a few times previously) and that sorted it.. I bought the 2nd ecu that was fitted and the donor bike had a programmable ecu fitted at a later date. 

    It does make me think I should swap my ECU, how old was your bike at the time, mines 20months old! How much was the ECU to buy? I assume it’s an easy plug in job I could do myself ? 

  3. Ok I’ve spoke to a few people and considered what you guys on here have said, 

    I was told that the rpm needs to be 1850 when fan is on. It is. Still coughs, in fact just pulling the bike out the garage this evening and running it again it cut out twice in first 6 minutes

    i noticed the Revs started off a bit lower like 1740, is that normal? The revs do go up and down a bit on start up 
     

    ive taken the fuel cap breather off 
    so that’s ruled out 

    I’ve disconnected the landyard as people have said they can be an issue But it cut out and after a few minutes

    so that is ruled out

    Any other ideas ? 
     

     

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  4. 1 hour ago, thall1 said:

    On early bikes it was mounted on the rectifier plate at the back of the engine casing. The capacitor was mounted on the rh side of the bracket .. it’s a bit of a strip down to get too it as I remember. 
    if you do get it out have a good look at the wires that connect to it particularly the earth... mine had ‘black wire’ corrosion right back up into the loom where all the earths connect... I had to strip the loom out and replace the earths. Mine was an older bike, 2006 So hopefully yours is ok.
     

    Ok the the part with the wire for a spark plug is the coil , the middle part with the fins is the fan relay ? And the smaller part is the rectifier ? All 3 parts were changed April 2019, bike was 2 months old at the point.... 

     

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  5. On 8/19/2020 at 6:09 AM, jonnyc21 said:

    I guess I missed the part about your lanyard being on the bike for along time already.  Side thought, a fellow rider I know had a lanyard kill switch fail internally 8 weeks after he installed it, so still might be worth a check/test. 

    As for the cap, I noticed it wasn't stock so agreed with lineaway that they can cause issues so again worth a check.  If you already know it doesn't have any kind of check valve and the whole is currently clear then you should be fine. 

     

    As for the hour/tach there should have been a set of instructions that tell you how to deal with RPM's being double what they should be.  (I think I remember it was a HardLine unit you got? If so this is a link to their current instructions: https://www.hardlineproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/8067-2download.pdf)

    RPM Section:

    Changing Spark/Pulse Input:  
    While in Tach mode, press and hold button until until “1P:1r” appears on the display.
    Release button if this is the desired mode. Hold button to view more selections.

    “1P:1r” indicates that the meter is set for 1 Pulse per 1 revolution.

    “1P:2r” indicates that the meter is set for 1 Pulse per 2 revolution.

    “2P:1r” indicates that the meter is set for 2 Pulse per 1 revolution.

    If your RPM reading is double what it should be at idle you need to select “2P:1r”

    Refer to your owners manual for correct idle RPM.

     

    Hope this helps. 

    Right might be getting somewhere now, I’ve held the button down On the Rev meter and changed It, it the went from 1200 to 2400 so I’ve turned it down to 1820, removed the red tank cap thing and kicked the bike up and watched it for a while on the patio , 1820 btw is map 1 and to my surprise in map 2 which I thought was a slower anti skid map it increases the Revs to 2040. 
    anyway so listening to the bike, it seems it gets warm the the fan comes on but when the fan stops the bikes revs dip “like try’s to cough” 

    it didn’t stall but each time the fan had been on as it went off the cough happens and under riding conditions this must be what keeps it stalling/cutting out 

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  6. 1 hour ago, jonnyc21 said:

    I agree with lineaway to remove the no spill cap and see how things go.  The two times I have tried one for any of my bikes I have had some kind of issue and ended up deciding not to do it again, no issues sense.  

    And always worth a look at any changes that recently happened such as jummyl's suggestion on going back to a kill button to test.  

    The lanyard was fitted a year ago when I bought the bike but I’ll check that again. 
    you guys say “no spill cap” but there is a hole in it ? Like when I’ve dropped the bike fuel just come out of the cap? 

  7. 26 minutes ago, lineaway said:

    After all this, have you tried running the bike with the gas cap off? It could not be venting properly. Every trials bike seemed to have venting problems in 2018 for various reasons.

    That’s an interesting idea, it did actually start playing up after I fuelled up, so you think the cap on the top of the tank could be causing an issue ? 

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  8. 2 hours ago, jimmyl said:

    Just been back through your posts

    You said a lanyard fitted just before you bought it - is it a genuine mont one? Maybe fit a kill button for a while instead 

    Did you check how the bank angle sensor had been linked out ?

    cheers

    Inch perfect fitted a apico lanyard for me when I bought it new, they also linked out the bank angle sensor so I’d of thought we could rule those areas out ? 

  9. On 5/24/2020 at 12:24 PM, thall1 said:

    After six months Mine turned out to be an intermittent ecu fault...

    borrow one if you can and try it

    My bikes playing up again, rode it 2/3 times for 3 hours a ride, now it’s started stalling/cutting out again, this thread was originally about my bike.

    I’m thinking maybe my ecu is faulty, everyone kept saying about the idle so I did fit an Apico hour meter/rev counter but with lock down the bike wasn’t used for a while. 

    everyone was saying the rpm needs to be 1800, I fitted the Rev counter after I had tweaked it, 

    the rpm only shows 1270 but it’s loud, like it’s reading it wrong ? 
    It’s been fitted exactly how the instructions say. If I turn it up it’ll get to 1500 then cut out, turn it down to 900 and it’ll cut out, at 1200 ish it runs ok but occasionally tries to cough, the revs dip randomly. Sometimes I’m riding through a section and it’ll just cut out. 
    I must have bought the most unreliable 4rt in England. ..... 

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  10. On 3/17/2020 at 9:08 AM, thall1 said:

    Have you got it running yet?

    We undone each wire plug and spayed with gt85, we took the tank off and removed the pump to check out the filter, the tank was very clean and we were unsure how to separate the pump/filter so we put that back together and everything else , checked the spark plug again which was sparking, the bike fired up 1st keep.... I’ve now ordered an Apico hour meter to fit £30 which once fitted also shows the RPM, we’ll then checked what it is set at and then set the rpm to 1850 and then I’ll ride it and see, .... trials are being cancelled though due to corona virus ??‍♂️

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  11. I’ve been to a trial today and all seemed well but after an hour it cut out, struggled to start it, did a few more sections, turning the bike off at some sections whilst waiting in the queue, It was  starting back up ok then it cut out on me again in a section, then couldn’t get it going, waited 5 minutes, then it fired up, did a load more sections then after stopping breifly in a queue it would not start, after trying 20 times to kick it up and doing 6 resets I waited another 5 minutes and tried again, it fired up,

    it’s as if the issue is when it’s hot , the fan comes on as it should, ...

    I road on and this time it cut out on me whilst in 4th gear riding at reasonable pace between sections , 

    waiting 5 minutes and began the 20 kicks to fire it up, it started so I carried on, i by this point was on my last lap, I made it to the last but 4th section of my trial when it cut on again in the section, I waited 10 minutes and tried again to kick it up, it wouldn’t start, I pushed the bast**d up a hill and back to the van, another 15 minutes later I tried to kick it up again to no avail, gave up and went home again with out finishing. 

  12. Ok .... update, I tried starting the bike few days after the last trial and it started straight up, I’ve been to a trial today and all seemed well but after an hour it cut out, struggled to start it, did a few more sections, turning the bike off at some sections whilst waiting in the queue, It was  starting back up ok then it cut out on me again in a section, then couldn’t get it going, waited 5 minutes, then it fired up, did a load more sections then after stopping breifly in a queue it would not start, after trying 20 times to kick it up and doing 6 resets I waited another 5 minutes and tried again, it fired up,

    it’s as if the issue is when it’s hot , the fan comes on as it should, ...

    I carried on riding and this time it cut out on me whilst in 4th gear riding at reasonable pace between sections , 

    waitied 5 minutes and began the 20 kicks to fire it up, it started so I carried on, i by this point was on my last lap, I made it to the last but 4th section of my trial when it cut on again in the section, I waited 10 minutes and tried again to kick it up, it wouldn’t start, I pushed bast**d up the hill and back to the van, another 15 minutes later I tried to kick it up again to no avail, gave up and went home ... ??‍♂️
     

    other info, this bike isn’t even a year old 

    the bank sensor was removed 

    new spark plug just fitted the other day, 

     

     

 
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