penno350

Any wise words on front wheel bearings chaps? Just had mine collapse for the second time this year.

Thanks guys, was thinking improved fork bracing would help.

Evening Guys, are Bulto forks inherently 'wobbly' only really noticed since I have been trying harder sections and particularly rocks but at times it seems like the front wheel is pointing in a different direction to the bars, everything in terms of clamps and spindle is tight and as it should be?

Without starting a new topic, any thoughts/comments on moving the footrests back a bit on a 199A?

Happy New Year to all. About to have a go at the fuel tap on my plastic tank, it's the 2 bolt type and seems to have a rubber gasket which is hanging on by the skin of its teeth. Any top tips for repair?

Went through a similar mind bending situation with a C15 before realising that the engine is actually offset in the frame. As with the previous post key alignment issue is the chain run. If you still need clearance it may be a case of adjusting the relationship between the hub and the rim by adjusting the wheel spoking.

Any recommendations for best spark plug to use with a C15, PVL Ignition?

Shouldn't really be a problem where the screw is as it only adjusts the clearance between clutch centre and push rod. Should be set to give a couple of mill free play at the clutch operating arm. Differential between slip and drag is then set up on the clutch springs (nut variety not cup and pin).

Sorry Taff, just ordered directly from Dave Renham didn't measure it. Bondy, I would suggest some combination of a piece of inner tube and some cable ties.

Lot easier than I thought, used an exhaust spring puller to ease the seal out, no problem at all.

No need to panic, parts received, job done, usual great service, thanks guys.

Anyone know if they are operating this week? Phone seems to be constantly engaged.

Is it feasible to replace the oil seal behind the gearbox sprocket on a 199 without splitting the engine?

Can anyone help please, I have an Amal concentric carb, looks like a Mk 1.5 concentric with the choke lever, the body has a cast number 625 with L1 stamped to the left of it and number 1 below the 6. Can't work out from the Amal website exactly which type it is 1600 or 1900 to order spares. Any advice gratefully received

All sorted and running, thanks for the help :-)

Sorted the spade connectors as they are different sizes (should have gone to specsavers). Did a bit of googling and it seems to suggest that plug choice is critical, PVL doesn't like a standard plug? Should I be able to see a spark with the plug sitting on the head?

Morning all. Physically fitted but no spark, could anyone please confirm for me stator connections to ignition unit (spade connectors) for blue and black leads. Also I have timed it at 5 degrees BTDC using the mark on the rotor with the closest mark on the stator. Apologies for really simple questions but didn't get any instructions with the system. Thanks.

Have an OKO Carb fitted to my 199A which has generally worked well until recently in some longer sections on the throttle, the bike has behaved as if it was starving of fuel. From a quick Google this seems to be quite a common symptom of this carb in the scooter world. Anyone have any similar trials experience and related advice to cure?

Thanks for the response. Confirms my thinking that it doesn't really matter as long as you have clearance and alignment.

Fitting a PVL to my C15 but it doesn't have any instructions. Could anyone please confirm the position of the 4 spacers provided with the kit? 3 are obviously for the stator and one for the rotor. However, if the rotor spacer is fitted to the crankshaft behind the rotor there is hardly any thread protruding. Similarly should the stator spacers be behind or front side of the stator? Thanks.

Thanks Azzy

Real simple one, should a C15 have a primary chain tensioner fitted?

Can someone please help with advice on crank end float for a C15. Based on Rupert Ratio and Google I am not clear whether it needs shimming to control the setting between crank and main bearing or is used to centre the con-rod in the barrel. Either way it seems to need a ‘dry’ build to measure the clearance but assume this will not take account of any gasket material between the crankcase faces, although this will be minimal. I have had the crank refurbished by Alpha bearings including a timing side bush to bearing conversion. Any experience/advice gratefully received.

I converted my 199A to right foot braking with parts from Bultaco UK mainly because I do a fair bit of road riding and I find it instictive. Trial it regularly and never had any problems with fouling or damage. Brakes aren't the best by modern standards but it does help if you clean the drums and shoes regularly.

I have a hub already, just wanted to clarify whether it needed widening or not?