Thats a more difficult question lol. If you're an expert rider, have the spare money, and like an extra bit of bling, yes. Otherwise no.
After all its only really the carbon airbox, better rear shock and a couple other small engine pieces. Ive never had one, never felt the need, but im always cash strapped
When iv been looking i can get a year or two newer racing than a gp for my budget if the price is close and one year in it would you still go for a newer racing or older gp thanks
Didn't think they were built particularly bad before the takeover, any specific part you are referring to?
Iv always fancied one but was told the gearboxes are made of chocolate and iv seen alot of the older ones with rust on the frames im thinking of coming from a vertigo to gasgas thanks
So have I have the Vertigo combat 2018. Installed the wifi module.
I can see the tps, diagnostics etc, but loading the different maps I downloaded from here seems to have no effect.
If I adjust a map, when I upload it to the cpu, then restart the bike, it appears that it is back to stock.
Am I missing something, is there a way I have to "switch" to my custom map?
Thanks,
Dave
I watched the videos on YouTube to see how it works and how to seperate the maps then download it of hear to my phone it went straight on to the app and just installed from there
I downloaded it too my phone and it had automatically gone on to the app but i had to do it near the house so it would pick the wifi off the house first to update the app when the bike was running it wouldn't do it out in the field
In the app, select the map factory map, hit the three dots; and select "copy to custom maps", then find the factory map in the custom map list, hit the three dots again and select "share the map", then send the map to your computer by email, then save the file from the email to your computer, and then post the map here by just dragging it to the reply when you post. The video above shows how to share the maps.
Thanks
Thankyou I only have a phone with the app on carnt do the computer bit as I don’t have one It’s saved on the phone somewhere I’ll give the three dots a try ?
I am a 63 year old plasterer and trials rider. A few decades ago my right hand used to get extremely stiff from plastering and I changed trowel size from a 5X14 inch (wooden handle) to a 5X13 with a rubber handle. It helped me a lot and my hand never gets nearly as stiff.
Its not a kind trade on the hands i have trigger finger in two fingers im sure that doesnt help for me the speed skim has helped loads with plastering
well i think iv sussed it but i carnt belive it is that id bought some new thin hebo gloves xl i put my old gloves on which i think are old mx gloves which are thicker that iv worn for years and i was fine bit confused by that outcome
A quick thought. Maybe someone has put a slow throttle tube on the Vertigo? If you roll back the grip it’ll be black. Fast ones are white. That would tax your wrist more....
Have you changed...do you wear gloves? These can bring grief if they are too tight across the back of the hand etc. Before your next ride give your hands and wrists a bit of pre-ride exercise to improve blood circulation. Now you are controlling the throttle ‘fly by wire’ there will be little resistance to any twisting action and it could be this added to cautious throttle opening. As previously suggested, going back to the handlebars you had on the 4rt may be a benefit to you. A chat to your GP may be a wise move as there might be an underlying issue.
Thanks the bike has renthal fat bars on think thats what was on the 4rt im thinking the problem is im having to open the throttle alot more to get the same power ill try some hand stretching as im a plasterer iv always got stiff hands i had got some thin hebo gloves xl but ill try my old pair you never know could be that
Maybe Is it just the different riding style now needed with a 2t - more throttle input compared to the 4rt?
maybe just need to ride through it until your body adjusts
when I switched to the 4rt elbows used to hurt due the torque at MRD bottom end and the “hang off the back “ riding style of the mont
I could easy be the difference in throttle because I was pulling the brake lever by accident all the time one of the things I loved on the 4rt was the power with little amount of throttle Iv got the WiFi box for it so I’m hoping I can adjust the throttle to be mor responsive like the 4rt is
Thanks I’m hoping it’s just to adjust to a new bike but I’m thinking Iv too much weight on my hands to cause this The footpegs are the s3 aluminium for a wide platform I assume the 10mm adjustment on the pegs wouldn’t even be noticeable so only leaves the handlebars
Hi all after some advice moved from montesa 300rr to a vertigo 300 r Had a few rides lovely bike but I’m getting cramp in my right hand all the time never experienced it before had a few bikes and it’s not happened Iv got everything set as it should be any tips on what to adjust whould be helpful thanks Iv put on the s3 aluminium foot pegs so there’s that little adjustment
I have never replaced my pads without also re-bleeding the system so not sure if it could, however its possible.
At this point I would do a flush and re-bleed of the system including re-adjustment of all the settings and see if your still having an issue. If you are then maybe its as lineaway indicated and your only choice is to modify the pin. If this is the case maybe you corrected a problem that wasn't causing an issue so you didn't know was an issue and now that is causing the issue you now have.
My best guess.
Edit: It would be highly unlikely the new pads by them selves would remove play from the system. Hydraulic systems auto adjust for changes in the system (pad ware, new pads, etc.) so it would be way more likely there is some other factor in play that is the cause of the difference not just new pads. Happy to be wrong if it really is the pads though...
Im thinking the new pads are just miles better so any pull on the leaver makes it work where i was getting away with it before ill try to adjust to it or try a dog leg leaver as suggested iv been blessed with hands like shovels but short fingers ?
Go back over what you have done, if you are not mechanically minded then get some one who is to check that everything is in the correct place. New or worn pads should not on a hydraulic system make any difference to lever travel, only air or a leak will cause spongy feeling at the lever. Therefore it could be that the master cylinder operating bar/pin has been pulled back and is not in the piston but sitting on the outer edge of the piston...difficult to achieve but too much force could do it...As its an essential to have working properly please double check what you have done before riding. There are dog leg levers that allow smaller length fingers to fit the lever blade comfortably. Has your lever got an external adjuster as this could be part of the issue. Let us know what you find.
Thanks iv had it all in bits lost all pressure so stripped the master cylinder rubbers look good rebuilt it brake works good but it definitely bits a bit further out with the new pads im wondering if just the pads are alot better and the older pads gave me more to play with could do with a ET finger ? thanks
Go back over what you have done, if you are not mechanically minded then get some one who is to check that everything is in the correct place. New or worn pads should not on a hydraulic system make any difference to lever travel, only air or a leak will cause spongy feeling at the lever. Therefore it could be that the master cylinder operating bar/pin has been pulled back and is not in the piston but sitting on the outer edge of the piston...difficult to achieve but too much force could do it...As its an essential to have working properly please double check what you have done before riding. There are dog leg levers that allow smaller length fingers to fit the lever blade comfortably. Has your lever got an external adjuster as this could be part of the issue. Let us know what you find.
I copied how they were in but ill double check its not spongey the brake is good but the lever is far out compared to what is was even with the adjuster all the way out so soon as my finger is on it its braking with no play ill go back to the beginning its obviously something iv done i wonderd with pushing the pistons back with leaving the cap on its got to much pressure in there im only guessing though thanks
The doesn't sounds like a fluid level issue... did you flush and re-bleed the system after replacing the pads? If not that is the first thing I would do and then re-adjust the lever. Good luck.
No i just pushed the pistons back i didnt take the lid off if that would make a difference thanks
Hi just fit some new brake pads and now when I ride I carnt stop pulling the front brake when I try to do stuff with my short fingers Iv adjusted it as much as poss but it’s still too far out never come across this before was wondering if I took some fluid out it might help thanks
Is the gasgas any better now
in Gas Gas
Posted
Surly they'll do spares for the older bikes ?