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Inny

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Posts posted by Inny
 
 
  1. 17 minutes ago, totty79 said:

    I'd ride it briefly and change the oil while it's hot. Worth taking a look at the coolant.

    Thanks. We'll try that next although he can't get out to ride at the moment so will just need to run up and down the driveway a few times. We'll make sure it's hot first.

  2. 34 minutes ago, totty79 said:

    Yes it could be the shaft, the seal can wear a groove in it.

    You don't say if it's been used since the work, if its done this on first ride it might just be some residue, it takes a couple of changes to clear it.

    Cheers for that. It's probably had 15 minutes running time since the work and hasn't been ridden. Would you suggest changing the oil again straight away or keep an eye on it for now to see if it worsens? He certainly didn't experience any clutch drag when putting it in gear. I've also thought - would it be worth sampling the coolant to see if that's contaminated as well (my reasoning being that any failure of seals, etc could cause contamination both ways)? With the perforated case it was obvious that both were contaminated.

  3. My lad's just noticed that his 2006 Rev03 coolant looks "milky" again (see photo), despite carrying out an in-depth overhaul of the clutch and casings. He was initially experiencing the typical clutch drag issues but after removing the clutch, we found that the inner clutch case had perforated. As a result, he's carried out the following:

    Replaced inner clutch case, associated bearings and seals (including the cover gasket and O-ring).

    Replaced water pump bearings and seals.

    Replaced clutch plates, basket and primary drive.

    Replaced oil and coolant.

    To be honest, we're both now at our wits end over this. He's owned the bike for nigh on a year and still hasn't had chance to ride it due to the work he's been doing on it (he's also replaced fork seals, wipers and oil, exhaust O-rings and oil seals, removed and cleaned the air box and replaced the air filter).

    Does anybody have an idea what else we've missed? Could it be that the water pump shaft should have been replaced at the same time?

    Thanks in advance.

     

     

    IMG_20210606_141300.jpg

  4. 6 minutes ago, carl ekblom said:

    Now I see....The coating is usually greyish.

    The coating on the inside is still there but little worn. The Crapioli forks need every help they can get so I would replace them all. For a very economical work pehaps I would put them back.

    Normal forks has the coating on the lower bush on the outside while the upper has on the inside. Must be the opposite on USD-forks

    On good forks the lower aluminium leg should have the bore anodized on the inside (not easy to do). Crapiolis are not good forks so I don´t know about them. Anodized aluminium has a very hard, low friction surface. I think Beta nowadays own Crapioli and the forks has become much better.

    Thanks again - much appreciated.

  5. 13 minutes ago, carl ekblom said:

    The one on the last photo is busted. They are teflon coated and will function (with possible more friction) even if the coating is worn out. .If it were my bike I would replace them all.

    Thanks Carl. It's the same bush in the last 2 photos. Having not taken it apart myself, my assumption was that, for this bush, the bearing surface is the inner bore (as opposed to the external diameter of the bush shown in the first photo) and that the external wear was due to it being pressed into its location. I'm no mechanic so stand corrected if I'm wrong.

  6. Can anybody please advise? My lad's taken his Rev03 forks apart to repair a couple of scratches on the stanchions. Whilst doing this, he's concerned that the fork bushes may need replacing. What do people think? Thanks in advance.

    IMG_20210327_162805.jpg

    IMG_20210327_163445.jpg

    IMG_20210327_163101.jpg

  7. I've finally got round to removing the clutch on my lad's bike prior to replacing the perforated clutch case. Before I do, can anybody enlighten me on removing the retaining clip shown on the attached photos? Is it a case of just bending the 2 lugs back prior to using a 22mm socket? If that's the case, I assume a new clip will need fitting afterwards. Are there any tips on re-installing this before I mess anything up? Also, I can't find a part number on the Beta website for this clip - does anybody know this and where I can find one in the UK?

    Many thanks in advance for any advice. Everybody's been a great help so far.

    IMG_20201124_120831.jpg

    IMG_20201124_120846.jpg

  8. 8 hours ago, kurtas said:

    What I would do:

    Really give it a good clean out with wire brush, emery etc and then basically render the whole inside with a liquid metal epoxy.
    Sand/grind it all back so your impeller fits, replace the seal and never speak of it again.

    I'll give it a go but thought the corrosion may have gone too far given it's actually perforated the case. Do you still reckon it's worth it? Also, can it be done without taking the case off? Cheers.

  9. My son recently bought a 2006 250cc REV 3 as his first bike. We came across the usual sticking clutch on which I carried out a poor fix (new plates probably required as a result). However, this helped but, after being stood for a couple of weeks, it is now impossible to put in gear without it stalling.

    He's now just dropped the oil, which was very milky, which lead us to think there's a leak from the coolant. Other posts suggest any coolant leak to the clutch will cause or make clutch drag worse. After draining the coolant and removing the pump cover, it's quite obvious the inner clutch case is absolutely shot. In fact, there are 2 small holes right through the case!

    First thing's first - we need to replace the case. Does anybody have a link or instructions for what we need to do and how we go about it? I'm a manufacturing engineer but not a mechanic so am happy doing it provided I know what I'm doing! Also, what other parts do I need to replace at the same time? The pump cover, impeller and impeller shaft all look fine which makes me think these parts have already been replaced.

    Thanks in advance

    IMG_20201028_184801.jpg

    IMG_20201028_184818.jpg

  10. I've carried out the clutch fix but think I may have messed up - it looks like I've not got all the tabs square when doing the final polish after cleaning the faces with a needle file (see pic). Will I need new plates? My worry is, if there's excess play, it may damage the clutch basket.

    IMG_20200915_171318.jpg

 
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