Martin - thanks for the info and Photo - think our problem is the 1st option.
Need to lift the gear lever up a fraction from the neutral position before it will change down gears. The gear lever got a tweak and I think it moved the selector pawl position.
Ian
Hi
This thread has been a very interesting read
Are there any updates on the SWM project?
Did you end up making the clutch any lighter?
Did you improve the suspension?
Ian
Hi dhdey
I took my sensor into the local KTM Dealer & replaced sensor with a similar KTM item.
I think the resistance of a standard coil is about 150 ohms and the coil I replaced it with was 100 ohms.
Main reason for using it was it was correct physical size and mountings were same.
Used the uprated bolts from the 2012 onward models (From Trials & Tribulations), just had to use a rose bit drill on the crankcase cover to allow room for the deeper heads on the bolts.
Been in the bike (2011 Ossa) for a year now and working well.
I thought the bolts were uprated in the 2012
Ian
If you change the idle speed using the small screw on the throttle body - that is step No1.
Step No2 is to reset the initial throttle position to the ECU, using the software and cable.
If you don't complete step No2 then the fuel mix will be incorrect causing fouled plugs etc.
Hi - I have a 2013 Ossa that from new, has had a whirring noise in 2nd gear.
It is audible whether the clutch is in or out or if the bike is moving or not.
The local dealer has had the gearbox out and there are no obvious worn gears or bearings.
We put it back together thinking it may improve with time....
Anyone experienced this noise and got a solution?
Or got any ideas what could be causing it.
Hi
I have been following this informative forum with interest.
I have a similar problem with the clutch of a Gas Gas pro 2005 dragging.
The clutch dis-engages drive when the lever is pulled 1/2 way in but continues to drag all the way into the handlebars. Cant change it into neutral and sometimes it stalls the engine if left idling long enough.
I have bled the clutch line, I use Motul transoil, checked the free play of the lever, etc
I took the side cover off and measured the plates thickness whick was OK.
I then checked the fork fingers and most of them are at the correct height about 17.5mm
There are a couple that are at 16.6mm though and a couple that were not moving freely when I first removed the clutch. There freed up after I operated them a few times.
Is it important that the fork fingers be all at the same height? If so what is the best way to adjust them?
Ian
