Hi all. I need to get some additional height on the bars of my 2009 290. The current setup seems to be standard Sherco "fat bars" what options are available to me ? Can I get some different clamps with longer bolts or do I need to swap out for a pair of aftermarket Renthal bars or similar ?
Noticed the other day that my 2009 290 has a small split in the alloy hub of the rear wheel, looks like someone overtightened one of the M8 nuts that hold the sprocket on, and caused a split in the alloy. Anyone else had this problem ? I think it should weld up & re-drill OK though.
Just checked to see if anyone had any comments on the whining noise from my Sherco 290, but no replies 😞 I see my video clip had 75 views, surely someone must know if it sounds "normal" or not ??
Any feedback welcome, I don't want to start an engine strip down for no good reason.
Well, if you haven't operated the clutch with the engine out, the slave cylinder piston shouldn't be any further out than it was when you removed everything. So I would say that the pushrod isn't sitting correctly at the clutch cover somehow, or something is assembled incorrectly. Either way should be quite easy to see the problem if you just whip the side casing off and take a look.
Firstly I once made the mistake of rebuilding the master cylinder dry, the dam thing wouldn't bleed no matter what I did. I stripped it back down and added some fluid to each part. This seemed to have done the trick.
Secondly if I have had trouble with stubborn brakes or clutches in the past, I've tie strapped the level back to the bars (engaging the piston) topped up the fluid leaving the master cylinder top slight ajar and left it over night. Next day after a couple of normal bleeds I finally get a firm brake/clutch. This has worked every time I have done it so far.
I've always managed to get the job done over the years by sucking a vacuum on the caliper bleed nipple and also as you say tie wrapping the lever back , but for some reason this one has been particularly stubborn. Hopefully it should be good for a while now.
I finally fixed it this afternoon. I think my first problem was that I didn't have any free play at the lever, so the m/c piston wasn't relaxing to the full end stroke. I read this tip on the Beta or Gas Gas forum here, same AJP brakes. When I backed off the adjuster fully, I was able to just pump the lever slightly back and forth and a lot of small air bubbles started to rise in the m/c. After about 20 minutes I started to get a nice firm lever with no more bubbles. A final "normal" bleed through the caliper nipple with the lever pumped and held seems to have worked.
Hi, thanks for the info, yes I tried to get all of the air out of the m/c by jiggling the lever. I was also thinking that the seal may have folded over, I'll take it apart again later.
Hi. A few weeks ago I rebuilt my front brake caliper, new pistons and seals (2009 290), had a right job bleeding it but got there in the end by sucking a vacuum on the bleed nipple and pumping it through. last week I lost the little spring off the front brake lever and noticed that the rubber dust cap was missing off the master cylinder and it was a bit corroded around the circlip, so I ordered a new rebuild kit for the master cylinder. I cleaned everything up and fitted it without any problems, Trouble is now I can't get any pressure at the lever, I've tried sucking out through the bleed nipple and topping up the master cylinder, but the lever just keeps pumping with no resistance at all, like it's air locked somehow ??
I've messed about with it for a hour or so with no luck.
OK thanks, I'll take a look at it. I have noticed that the kickstart occasionally seems to slip when I try kicking it over... maybe related to that somehow ?
Hi, I'm relatively new to ownership of my Sherco 290 2009 model. I've sorted out a few teething problems in the first couple of months of ownership. I've noticed that the motor seems to be quite noisy from the clutch/primary drive area ?? The noise is a slight whine that starts when you begin to let out the clutch, and then continues as you're riding the bike. It's quite loud and sounds like a gear type whining, not a rumble of a bad bearing or similar. When you pull the clutch in it gets much quieter. I've changed the gearbox oil, the old stuff was a bit discolored but nothing too bad.
is this "normal" on these 290cc motors or something that needs investigation ?
Hi all. I have a 2009 Sherco 290, which I just repaired the leaking radiator.
Can anyone confirm the direction of the cooling fan ? On mine, when sitting on the bike looking forward the fan turns anti-clockwise (so that would be looking at the back of the fan where the motor is) if looking at the radiator front (opposite side to the fan) then it turns clockwise.. is that correct ?
Hi, yes I got it all done in the end. Warmed the seals and caliper with a hairdryer to soften the seals, then lubed them with clean brake fluid and twisted/pushed them home. Works fine now 🙂
I had a similar type leak... turned out to be the radiator, the fan plastic housing had rubbed through the water channels at the bottom of the radiator, causing some small pinholes.
I have just repaired it with some JB weld chemical metal, and will put it back together soon... hopefully it should be OK
I have it figured out, the new seals are slightly smaller and thinner and fit correctly ? however the one i pressed home with the wrong seal was stuck and i had to damage the piston getting it out ... oh well the ebay seller who sent the wrong bits can send me a new set of pistons ... at least i have the right seals now
Use a small mirror to check the seal groves in the caliper as you can't see it all directly. Any muck or corrosion in the grove will make the seals too tight.
Hi, thanks yes I'm sure they are clean, I put the caliper halves in my ultrasonic cleaner tank for 30 minutes, came up spotless.
In hindsight I used a bit of red rubber grease on the new seals, maybe that got behind the seals enough to stop them pushing right back into the grooves ? I'll just use clean brake fluid next time.
I’ve only had to reseal 1 front caliber on my old scorpa sy250, but they have the same caliper (for the most part). I am by no means a specialist, but I found that splitting the caliper in half made it very easy to push in the new pistons using a vice with a soft plastic jaw on it (soft wood would work too). There is an oring that seals the two caliper halves if I recall correctly, and will likely be reusable when you put the two halves of the caliper back together. Just throwing out an idea if you haven’t tried it.
Another good idea I can pass on is to remove the pads from the caliper once you’re ready to bleed it, and put a piece of wood between the pistons - in case it leaks, it won’t contaminate your brake pads. Definitely block the pistons so that you don’t push them past the seals when bleeding (if caliper is removed from bike). I was so cautious bleeding my front brake and still managed to contaminate the pads with a very small amount of brake fluid from the bleeder nipple (not good, lol).
oh, and make sure you put the pistons in with the flat face inward. If put in backwards it won’t have the same surface area, and also I believe one side of the piston has a chamfered edge while the other side is flat and may be part of your problem as to why the seals were nicked?
I hope this helps. Disregard this message if you’ve tried all that. Good luck
Hi thanks for the help. I split the caliper to clean it all out, the seal kit comes with a new O ring to seal the two halves back together. I also used a small piece of wood and a G clamp to push the new pistons back in (flat face inwards) So I was a bit annoyed with myself when I couldn't get them to fit. I made sure I drove them in square too. The recess for the O rings is cleaned out perfectly, my ultrasonic cleaner fetched the caliper up like new.
On the plus side I found just the seal kit online for £7.50 so I thought I'd order two sets just in case... arrived today and each set contains ten seals, So I've got plenty of room for mistakes this time.
Hi, I recently purchased a nice 2009 290 to start getting back into off road riding. It's tidy but needs some small jobs doing on it, one of which was a sticking front brake. I stripped the caliper down, removed all the pistons and seals, cleaned it in my ultrasound cleaning bath, and bought a new piston & seal kit.... all good so far..... however I had a right job trying to get the pistons back into the caliper halves with the new seals in place. Everything was spotless and lubricated with clean brake fluid. I eventually got them in, however I soon found out that I'd nicked a couple of the seals when fitting the pistons. When I came to bleed the brakes using my vacuum pump, it was sucking air in past the pistons ? For info it's a AJP 4 piston caliper.
I've ordered some new seals and will try again, anyone else attempted this ? if so do you have any tips to pass on ?
Hi don’t know , maybe the ethanol in US fuel ? this tank is also a translucent type material , it’s damaged slightly around the petcock area, I’ve removed the fixing part , just need to weld up the small splits , but it’s important to get the right filler rod material , Thanks
Hi, does anyone know the type of plastic used for Sherco fuel tanks circa 2004 ?
I’m assuming it’s HDPE , high density polythene ? I have a little sherco 50, and i’m going to plastic weld the fuel tank around the petcock area as it’s damaged and had previously been fixed with Epoxy .
OK Thanks.. I think I can mostly get by without a manual... I've been fixing and rebuilding bikes for the past 40 years or so, but it's always handy to have a reference document to hand.
290 front caliper rebuild
in Sherco
Posted
Hi
Got the seal kits here :
https://www.motorcycleproducts.co.uk/